New guy needs URD maf calibrator help

I am a long time member on Pirate and TTORA and have posted this problem at TTORA to no avail. I have a 2004 Tacoma, that is supercharged with URD's 6 injector fuel upgrade kit. I installed the supercharger and fuel mods in 06 and have had no problems until now. So I have the URD fuel timing calibrator and the maf sensor calibrator. The truck will randomly stall, like the key was turned off, that quick. Sometimes it starts right back up, sometimes it takes 5 or 6 tries. Sometimes it will run great for a couple hours. I had it at toyota and they said all sensors were within factory specs during testing and they feel it is one of the urd units. I always get maf codes with occasional lean bank codes when it stalls. I have been messing with this thing for 2 months and am fed up. Does anyone have any way to verify if the urd units are working properly? I have put 3 mafs in at this point as well. Thanks for any help. My afr shows a slight leaning out usually right before stalling, and when starting it seem really rich based on exhaust fumes, (before it goes into closed loop).
Steve
Here is the truck

 

First off welcome! The truck looks awesome!
I know nothing about superchargers but the guys in this thread know a lot
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/pe...4-super-charger-questions-answers-thread.html

 

That truck is effing tits, and idk if this helps but my dad had a chevy that did the same thing and no one could figure it out until finally someone found the a cam shaft sensor was junk, once that was fixed it never did it again. I'm not a mechanic but it could be something like that. I have had my maf calibrator on for a few months with no problems at all.

 

If I was to hazard a layman's guess...

...it might be an intermittent electrical connection. If you are always getting a MAF code upon stalling, it's a good indication of either an intermittent broken communication link between the MAF and the ECU, or an intermittent loss of power to the MAF. Wiring that vibrates on the running engine would be the most suspect since the motion could make the failure random.

It makes sense that everything would work fine at Toyota because your truck isn't in motion and bouncing around.

Do you ever get just an engine stutter, but not an outright stall?

Does it stall out more in off road conditions than on road?

 

Thanks for the replies and compliments. The truck will stall sitting perfectly still after sitting there idling. I did continuity test on all the sensors, and no apparent breaks. I paid close attention to all my connections to the URD ftc and maf calibrator, they are soldered, and heat shrink covered then zip tied to prevent movement. I am going to give gadget a call tomorrow and see if he can test the units. URD is not far from here.

 

And idk if you have a boost gauge or not but my truck was at about 5 psi before the maf and now it's at about 6.5 psi, so that's how I can tell it's working for at least performance wise.

 

Sorry but i dont think the MAF can affect the pressure produced by the SC. May the timimng calibrator but not the MAF. The air temp will affect the pressure.

 

What you've described sounds more like a fuel pump than anything. It could be some electrical short causing it somewhere along the line but the culprits sounds like a bad fuel pump to me based on what you've said here.

 

Hey by the way, love the camo look of the truck. Looks like in WOT (World OF Tanks), or World Of Tacoma.

 

Brand new fuel pump is installed. Weird story, I had a brand new pump from a yamaha waverunner (2008 fxho) that was exactly same as walbro, same flow, same plug, looks just like oem, but better built honestly. So I stuck it in, works perfect. I checked and the fuel pump is still running and getting signal until shortly after the truck stalls. I know its not a lack of fuel issue. I am having a hell of a time getting my laptop to connect to my ftc, you guys have any suggestions? I does the red countdown then says check my connection and ecu power. I have checked ecu power, it is good. I am going to play with it tomorrow again and see if I can retrieve my maps I spent so much time tuning.

 

It isn't only a mall cruiser just in case you guys were wondering....

 

If your FTC is like the MAF controller, you have to identify the port and sometimes it can be difficult. So 2 choices look in the system of your computer and check which lpt port is activated or try each of them trough your FTC panel.

Oh sometimes if you use a USP-serial converter, the converter can be the problem. So check if your cable working with the MAF.

 

You talk to Gadget URD? I recommend you remove it and sell/return it. While you CAN tune with the MAF when boosting, a MAP is much more effective. Get a piggy back tuner with a MAP sensor and tune with that and you will see much better power returns (and you wont have to deal with the current BS ). You only use the MAF for low engine speed/idle tuning.

This guy has an AEM FIC for sale at $270. You can tune the extra injectors, etc...

I wired mine up and can give you the wiring scematic, its pretty easy. Ill have to find where I got my patch extension harness.

Or you can get a plug in play boomslang harness: http://www.boomslang.us/aem-fic.php

OR

http://www.tokensolutions.net/toyota-truck-4runner-aem-fic-pnp-harnesses-aem-fic-optional/

 

St. Andrew,
Im interested, how quickly can I get this up and running? I don't mind picking up the harness pre made, and if I can get more out of it I'm all for it. Whats involved in tuning?

 

What do you guys think as to performace, AEM FIC vs urds fuel timing calibrator with the air fuel ratio calibrator combined. I have spent many hours tuning my maps with urds ftc and am happy with the results, but I believe the ftc is bad, and thats $400 plus to replace. If the FIC is better I will do that. Thanks for the input guys.

 

If you have the AFR and fuel controller, the FIC won't net you much more. The FIC incorporates all tuning functions (except timing advance, can only retard) as well as the MAF calibration as well. Where the FIC excells is the MAP sensor with is much better for tuning boost than a MAF. In fact, the MAF tuning function is just to cap the MAF voltage to the ECU as high boost can sometimes throw a code due to high MAF voltages.

For $400, AEM FIC def a better option.

As far as tuning, its pretty much the same as the URD tables.

Overview:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIlHRTwEf0U

Gauges
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqXa2bZLccM&list=UUAtvmuAESsvUPIIUqolbjdg

Tables:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VX8-BrylebQ&list=UUAtvmuAESsvUPIIUqolbjdg

O2 Tuning:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZNDCT9UjQQ&list=UUAtvmuAESsvUPIIUqolbjdg

MAF Cap (I can give you my table if you want):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MwDfmGWJzw&list=UUAtvmuAESsvUPIIUqolbjdg



Bad ass truck btw, you need a build page. Not a huge fan of "camo" paint but digging your look.

 

Also my truck would stall out at times, I checked everything as well and mine finally popped a CEL calling it a bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) The resistance will read good until it finally fails completely. Something to keep in mind after you finish with all of your other troubleshooting and you still can't locate the problem.

 

Thanks for the info, and the compliment. I'll have to find my build thread on pirate. It was 2006 when I did it I think.
2 things, I was able to log into my fuel timing calibrator and look at my fuel table and timing table. They both are fine. Now the truck has developed a pattern. It will start and run fine, holding idle at 14.7/1 fuel ratio no signs of problems. Once it warms up, it stalls. The air fuel ratio drops to 10.0/1 area before it stalls, so its dumping fuel. If I hold the gas down it will sometimes stay running, but it wont rev past 3k, almost like bouncing off a rev limiter, then other times it wont stay running or restart until it cools. I double checked all my ftc and afr calibrator connections today, no cold solder joints. All is good.

 

Did you remove your MAF calibrator? Its a waist of time, just return/sell it. If that doesnt fix your issue, could be a tuning issue.

Its hard to tune the bigger injectors which is why the 7th injector kit is recomended.

 

Waste of time based on what criteria?

If you're running rich how is a 7th injector going to help you lean it out?