1GR TRD S/C Bypass Valve & Vacuum Switch Valve Part #s?

Anyone have leads on the part numbers for the bypass valve on the back of the S/C and the vacuum switching valve that is next to the oil fill?

I'm coming up on 100K in the next few months and the S/C is coming off for maintenance and plug change so I figured I'd replace these two parts while its off instead of gambling on them for the future.

Thanks!

 

Possibly here .

http://shop.zzperformance.com/eaton-m90-supercharger-performance.aspx

 

the valve by the oil fill is the purge vsv and it should be fine. i havent see them go bad in forever. i only have 16k on my s/c but its 4yrs old thinking changing the oil and greasing everything

 

What would be the symptoms of a failed bypass valve?

Asking cause have some strange boost readings. Max boost is unchanged and vaccum at cruise idel is the same. The problem is when i'm cruising at 40-45 mph between 1800-2000 rpm with a vacuum of -10 and gently hit the throttle, during few seconds boost is raising to 3-4 psi even at 2000 -2200rpm and then come back to vacuum side.

I have a 70mm TB and 2.85 pulley.

 

Do you have any vacuum leaks? Primarily at the tap for the boost gauge? When Memario first installed his TRD, he complained about his not feeling like it was making power. After some videos and discussions, we ended up chatting. Tried a test, and proved that his bypass was staying open continually. Not sure if he had that part replaced under warranty, or left the bypass bypassed, but his issue was solved.

 

Edited above^^^

 

I have a larger TB as well. It doesn't hang any differently than the stock size one did. Both on OEM ECU.

 

Yeah. If something is interfering with the bypass valve's operation, or it simply isn't working properly, it will bleed off boost and there can be a noticeable performance drop.

 

I'll take a look to verify potential leaks. Sometimes i just have the feeling that the intake cam is not creating enough vaccuum. Just like a defect in the VVT-I behavior.

 

All thread about failed bypass is related to a bypass valve staying in open position so a lost of boot and performance.

But is it possible to have a bypass valve that stay close. My problem is that my boost is coming too fast, too soon. My maximum boost is unchanged so between 7-8 psig.

But idling on the highway at -10 and 2000 rpm and then push the throttle a bit (something like 5-10% increase) and the seeing the boost going from -10" to 3 or 4 psig!

What will be the symptoms of a bypass valve that stay closed at iddle and cruise?

 

I've done a cross check this week end looking for a vacuum leak and i've verified the operation of the bypass valve under vacuum. Everything seems to be OK.

So with that done i've spend the week-end trying to troobleshoot what was the problem(i.m a bit maniac). I remember when the first symptoms appear, i had 3 random stall. 2 when waiting at the stop and just going on the throttle and another one when cruisng on the highway when i've jumped on the throttle after a decel. In this period the iddle was a bit rough.

My MPG is also terrible. So after thinking about all possibility, maybe it's a defective oïl timing control valve that activating the VVT-i. So based on your knowledge what will be the symptoms of an defective VVT-I system?

 

Bumped. No idea about my last post?

In resume, is it possible to have a defective VVT-i components without erroc code (oïl timing valve, vvt sensor, etc.)

Let the truck last week at the dealer for regular maintenance trying to explain them the symptoms and the mechanic was looking at me like an alien! He found a code for the MAF and replace even if i said him to not bother with (error code is generated by the download of a new map in the MAF controler).

New item here:

Intermitent P0420 code (catalyst below threshold bank 1): Trying to figure out what is the problem and considering there is no more cat on the truck, i have a brand new O2 sim installed afet the first occur?

 

Check to see if you have any exhaust leaks.

I have that code also. URD O2 sim. Came up recently. Could be the sim, could be the sensors, or could be a leak. Haven't yet checked.

 

Let me know if you found something.

Like said my sim is a brand new spare i had for this kind of problem. I will have to check for a leak maybe between my DTLTH and my DT Y-pipe or maybe the sensor.

Still searching why the boost is raising so fats at low rpm with only a small psuh on the throttle. Dont like to see boost in closed loop at 14.7 afr. Maybe it's me being too picky and parano. Wait a cable to complet my data logging chain so i'll be able to record the boost with all other parameters.

 

Hey guys need your lights,

This week-end i've gone trough a lot of verifications trying to find what causes a low vacuum on my bypass valve. PCV valve ok. Catch can and hoses ok. Vacuum switch valve ok. Bypass valve ok. I was not sure if the problem was the cam that not producing enough vacuum so i check the vvt-i system. OCV 1 and 2 OK. OCV sensors OK. I had to remove my intake tube and TB to have room for dismantling the OCV valves and i've seen oil in my intake tube and on the butterfly of the TB. It seems to come from the ventilation hose connected to the passenger valve cover (no oiled air filter). I was pretty sure to find there a check valve only allowing filtered air to be suck in the valve cover. Nothing! Is it me or something missing. I was sure to find something similar to the PCV valve but for vacuum.

I dont think oil fume should exit there in positive pressure or be sucked by the intake system. Can this phenomenon reduces the vauum at the bypass hose connection when i'm touching the throttle. Can i had a check valve there ?

 

Just to bump the post send before,

Is it normal to have oïl fume from the ventilation hose no. 2 (valve cover passenger side) going into intake tube? Is it not only for vaccum?

What can produce that if it s not normal?

Let's go gurus

 

Did you ever find the issue to your boost problem? Been reading and can’t seem to find anyone with the same issue, or it just goes unresolved, I’m having similar problems, boost coming on too fast

 

Sounds like your bypass valve could be improperly adjusted causing the butterfly to stick closed. This would cause the blower to constantly try and build boost. Do you have a vacuum/boost gauge? if so what does it read at idle?

 

Thanks for the response, my vacuum at idle is -22. Could the bypass valve lose adjustment? It has been running fine for the last 2 years and seems to have just started giving me issues after my last off-roading trip.