Performance Upgrades Help

Hi everyone!

First, thank you to the few who have posted the kind words regarding NST products, we certainly do appreciate them.

Unfortunately there seems to be a little bit of bad information here as well, and I understand that it has been posted by those who probably don't have any personal experience with our products, so it is not a big deal. But just to clarify a few things...

The NST line of pulleys that we offer for the Toyota 1GR are part of our -Lite series. These pulleys are the same size as the OEM Toyota pulleys... thus, none of the accessories are slowed when NST pulleys are used.

The NST CR-Lite Crank Pulley, ALT-Lite Alternator Pulley, and WP-Lite Water Pump Pulley are roughly 50% to 60% lighter than the OEM pulleys they replace and provide better overall throttle response, quicker acceleration, and better gas mileage.

For n/a or turbo applications...
http://www.nonstoptuning.com/pKitToyXR.htm

For TRD Supercharged applications...
http://www.nonstoptuning.com/pKitToyXRTRD.html

A long thread filled with user reviews, thoughts, and comments posted by people who actually own and use NST products on their 1GR powered Toyota XRunners...
http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18434

Thanks again everyone, good luck and have fun with all your projects!

(P.S. if any of the mods would like to send me some info on becoming a vendor/sponsor on TW world, I would appreciate it.)

 

awesome. im sure they will be more than glad to accomodate you. and ps ypu guys dont offer anything for us 2TR-FE guys do you?

 

hey man def go with the DTLT headers. I bought mine from URD and personally picked them up from gadget. So Far worth the headers have been worth every penny.

 

hey sorry i didnt seen this any sooner, as i see my name was mentioned in the beginning days of the post.

i can give a quick run down of what mods i did, what power i made, and what times they gave me.

urd tcai, thorley long tubs, urd maf cal, gave me 234hp and 270tq at the wheels. Best i could pull was about 14.6 in the quarter with it.

then, with the same mods as before, added a custom tru-dual to single out exhaust, and dyno'd 241hp and 266tq at the wheels, after tuning the maf cal a little. On that setup, i ran a best of 14.2 in the quarter.

Since then, I added the APR X-1 in December, and after a little dyno tuning by myself, I dyno'd 255hp, and 298tq at the wheels. The X-1 was hands down the biggest help in addition of power. And it will grow with any other performance mods that i may do later on, like nitrous. Since the X-1, I have had a good day back at the track. Between breaking the trans, going through 2 stock clutches, new sets of drag radials, its just been a big fight.

I have since sold the URD TCAI, and now running the AFE stg 2 Si intake. Ive yet to go back to the dyno with it, but Ive grown to like it alot lately.

 

So you broke your trans. Do I have any worry about that with an automatic?

 

Being N/A, I wouldn't worry about it. I know of a TRD S/C Taco that is launching in 4wd and trans is still holding up.

The auto seems to be stronger then the manual for the 1GR taco

 

Alright cool. I just can't see myself spending 1000 bucks on an ecu. Is it really worth it?

 

Yeah, wasn't the auto used behind the 4.7 in the tundra with like 330 somehting ftlbs.

 

Yes,the APR X1 is worth it.

 

Just don't have $1000 to spend right now either.

 

OK so...what's the verdict here regarding light weight pullies? I'm still seeing mixed responses.

Good or bad? I'm not talking under or overdrive...just light weight pullies...

 

go fisrt for a leightweight flywheel gains more then u would think and lowers engine drag

 

It's been said it takes money to accomplish performance gains.

When you ask the ? are the pullies worth it, you are basically asking: is reducing drag on the motor worth it..... And I say yes depending on how much you are spending, and what is your end state...

NST LW Pulley set (Crank, Alt, WP) = $318 (Noticeable increase in accelleration)...

Flex a Lite E-Fan = avg $375 (Maybe little more acceleration than pullies, More difficult Install).

LW Fly Wheels = avg $450 & up (Definately need to know what you are doing or could avg $300-$500 for install, and you might as well upgrade the clutch).

All these combined will promote quicker revs, and increased throttle response.

Add an X-1, S/C, and you get the point...

ENJOY

 

This is great!!!

So if I had to budget some of my money out over the next year what you would set as the priorities for gaining the most power (HP and Torque) over the money spend, and let's just leave out the S/C and X-1.

 

It's hard to say for sure... But looking at your Mods, You've got the TRD Intake, w/URD MAF Sensor Calibrator... Did you tune the calibrator? You would need a Wide band A/F sensor & monitor. This would allow you to dial in the most effective AFR for your truck.

The TRD Exh would not really increase any HP. You may gain some power if you free'd up some of that back pressure by addidng a URD or DT Y-pipe.

But if you are just looking for quicker revs to get you up to the higher RPM's where the 1GR produces the most HP, than the pullies or E-fan can help without breaking your bank.

I'd personally would get Gadgets help in Tuning first. Then from there you will know what your truck can really do, and start Modding from there.

 

Yes I had gadget tune it.

I was thinking a Y-pipe. Would you do Y-pipe before headers?

What could I really expect number wise from the pullies or fans?

 

When adding the DT headers, do you need to calibrate or make any other adjustments to other components?

 

DTLT Headers are the only headers I will recommend for performance. I had the JBA headers, and never really liked them besides the sound. They are sitting in my garage welded to the front Cats. PM me if you might be interested. Trying to trade these out w/someone.

Y-pipe will help, and you will not need to worry about throwing a Code. URD Y-pipe is of high quality. DT pipe bomb is so-so...

With DTLT's you will need a O2 simulator to trick the ECU into thinking you are still running Cats. If you have a tuner, ie.. MAF Cali, X-1, etc, it is best to tune after each Mod, so that you can adjust the AFR to how your motor reacts to said Mod. ie.. Intake/Headers/Exhaust that decreases Back pressure. Sweet thing about APR is it is self correcting, as long as you have the proper MAP uploaded to the ECU.

Not sure how to explain numbers for pullies and E-fan, but if you look at it like this (Less drag on the motor = more acual power to the Rear Wheels) therefore increasing RWHP. the 1GR is rated at about 236HP right? But if you dyno a stock 1GR, you get numbers closer to 195-208rwhp. Reducing drag will allow you to put the power where you want it.

Make sense... I hope, LOL. Hope the experts can chime in and help me articulate this better

 

Great info roxspin72, thanks. Could you elaborate on this part: "Sweet thing about APR is it is self correcting, as long as you have the proper MAP uploaded to the ECU."

 

X-1 will come shipped with a preloaded MAP for your set up.

I had Volant Ram Air Intake/DTLT Headers/Pipe Bomb

Gadget had sent that info to APR so they load the Map that would eliminate the CEL for no Cats, and accomadate the use of the Headers.

Well, just recently, I did some Data logging using the program sent w/the X-1, and my Laptop. Sent this to Scott (Tech Support) @ APR, just to have them figure out how my truck was running. And within a couple hours I was uploading a new Map that APR had tested that would improve my AFR due to the Volant running my truck too rich.

The new MAP instantly took over the ECU after a couple WOT runs. Fricken sweet tuner. My shifts improved, MPG improved. Noticeable Tune up

Here is the link:http://www.aprpower.com/ECU_mainpage.html

Even if it's not in your budget for the immediate future, it is still a fun read and very educational.

And is proven, worth it, and can be valged for by myself and multiple members on TW, XRU, and CT...

Enjoy.