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Old 05-04-2010, 08:09 PM   #1
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DTLT Questions!!!

Hey guys so i finally got my headers on my truck today. Have some questions about the Doug Thorley Long Tubes...

1- My engine used to idle at 7-800 rpm, now it idles a bit lower like 5-600 rpm. Is that normal due to the cats being eliminated?

2- My check engine light is on as well as my slip indicator, duh (its the o2's right?) But i have a urd o2 simulator hooked up correctly to my truck. Called Gadget twice on this one. Ive reset the truck three times already and its still showing up after about 30 seconds. Any ideas?

Note: The error code it P0053 HO2S Heater Resistance (Bank 1, Sensor 1)

But wtf does that mean???

Any help would be appreciated. Im gona have my buddy at Toyota look at it tomorrow for me too but any additional thoughts would be grrreat.

Thanks~Zoggs
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Old 05-05-2010, 05:13 AM   #2
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Exclamation Just a thought;

But, did you by any chance damage the O2 sensor, or maybe got some contaminent on them during the install.

Also, make sure they are fully connected. Double check and Double check again.

If your sim is installed correctly, you should not be throwing a code.

Good luck.
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:54 PM   #3
MrZoggs [OP] MrZoggs is offline
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Checked the urd o2 sensor again. tried it every which way imaginable. Still throwing the code.

Gona check out all my o2 sensors tomorrow. Unscrew em, clean em. etc. etc.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-06-2010, 04:16 AM   #4
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Yeah def. Check your o2 sensor's. Sounds like that's gonna be your prob.
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Old 05-07-2010, 10:13 PM   #5
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k, so one of my o2 sensors went bad...

But Im getting a new one on monday covered under the factory warranty
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Old 05-07-2010, 10:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrZoggs View Post
k, so one of my o2 sensors went bad...

But Im getting a new one on monday covered under the factory warranty


Hey besides the code, were there any other signs and sypmtoms, Ie.. truck losing power under full throttle. Just curious...

Congrats. Glad you got it fixed.
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Old 05-12-2010, 09:24 PM   #7
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Not that I could tell... Truck seemed to have a lot more power with the headers on it. Couldn't tell a difference if the O2 was throwing it off.. But I'll know tomorrow if there's even more power to be unlocked as I will replace then.

Although.. word to the wise re-torque your bolts after a few dozen miles. I was gona wait 100 miles to re-torque but decided to do it around 40 miles as my flange bolt went missing...

<update> fixed the O2, truck seems to run a little better now IMO. Just seems to run a bit smoother/happier. Sounds better too.

DTLH +1
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Old 05-15-2010, 06:19 AM   #8
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Sweet man, congrats on getting it fixed, was it hard to install at all? I was thinking of doing the long tubes, do the O2 sims go where the O2 sensors go when wiring? thanks in advance
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Old 05-15-2010, 07:52 AM   #9
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The install was pretty easy as long as you have the right tools. I went to a local shop to use their tools/service bay.. Made it easier not having to crawl under the truck all the time. They charged me $25 dollars to use their tools and lift. <<Awesome>>

The O2 Simulator connects to the rear cats. I ran mine above my tranny and used zip ties to secure it to pre-existing cables. Very easy to install.

My only issue with the install is that i kept trying to take short cuts when ever possible.. This screwed me up a couple times and I had to back track a bit.

My only words of advice would be to take your time and just remove anything that gets in the way, instead of trying to work around it. Also, make sure to torque everything appropriately and then check all the bolts after you get some miles on it. Let the headers break in easily, I babied mine for 50 miles- then drove how I normally would. Lastly, when your removing the O2's make sure you keep them nice and clean.

Gadget with URD is a great dude, He'll be more than willing to answer any questions you have about the headers + install. I'd highly recommend the Long Tubes.

Good Luck
~Zoggs
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Old 05-16-2010, 08:27 AM   #10
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cool thanks man i plan on trying to get a pair of these in a few months thanks for your help again
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Old 05-27-2010, 08:39 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrZoggs View Post
The O2 Simulator connects to the rear cats. I ran mine above my tranny and used zip ties to secure it to pre-existing cables. Very easy to install.
Just an FYI (not trying to be a jerk). The O2 sim should connect to the first set of O2 sensors (the ones in the headers) not the back ones after the rear cats.

Congrats on the headers. They are a great mod!
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Old 05-27-2010, 08:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docbrown View Post
Just an FYI (not trying to be a jerk). The O2 sim should connect to the first set of O2 sensors (the ones in the headers) not the back ones after the rear cats.
No sir. The reason they hook up to the rear ones is because the rear sensors keep an eye on the efficiency of all the cats. Missing cats would be read by the rear sensors that in turn set off the CEL. The front sensors are the ones that read the A?F ratio.
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Old 05-28-2010, 01:06 PM   #13
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I agree with whippersnappers placement, the o2 sensors were before the first set of cats on the original headers anyway, so an o2 simulator would have been useless if place here because the cats dont effect that sensor. I also had the problem with the nuts coming loose. So make sure to re tighten them

On another note, snapper, did you get your truck retuned or a new MAF sensor or anything like that adjusted after the headers?
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:35 PM   #14
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. I stand corrected. Crawled under my truck and that is how mine are connected. Good thing I followed the directions when I installed them and didn't rely on my memory!
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BREAK View Post
On another note, snapper, did you get your truck retuned or a new MAF sensor or anything like that adjusted after the headers?
I'm not running a set but when I do I plan on getting either a URD MAF calibrator or APR X-1.
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Old 05-28-2010, 08:06 PM   #16
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O2 Simulator connects to the rear cats as stated above..

Im running DTLH with stock y-pipe and magna flow exhaust. Sounds decent. Noticeable gain in power. Specially in the 2k-3,500 range.

APR X-one is my programmer of choice.. At least once its available for my truck. Second pick would have to be urd's maf & timing cal. at least for a normally aspirated engine..

Either way if you can get the x-one id say go for it.. You wont be disappointed.
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Old 05-28-2010, 08:18 PM   #17
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I just got them headers too and damn it took me a while to get them in. The driver side was the one that killed me, I finally had to have my buddy come over and help me, otherwise, it wouldn't have been done till the next day. P0420 and P0430 are the codes that are thrown for bad cats. I disconnected the batt. cable, attatched the o2 sim to the rear cats, hooked up the battery and bam. Check engine like gone! Noticable power on the seat of the pants test. waiting on my exhaust to come in, then the next mod will prolly be a maf calibrator.
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Old 05-28-2010, 08:20 PM   #18
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what do yall think is an average time to install as set of these?
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Old 05-28-2010, 09:07 PM   #20
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thanks doc. 4 hours doesn't sound too bad. jsut have to finish saving up for mine now
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