2TR Performance Parts!!!

So like most of you with a 2TR Tacoma...you probably love your motor but just wish they offered more performance options.
My original plan was to drop in a LSX and never look back. Im sure most of the trucks that pull up next to you wanting to race are GMC's and silverados. So beating them by using their engine wouldnt prove anything.

Well most people would tell you to swap in a 1GR, but I think if the 2/3RZ can be boosted to 600+whp, then so can the 2TR.

I want to start expanding the aftermarket for the 2TR as well as building my truck. I am not starting a company or selling mass numbers, but maybe if I can sell just a few parts we can spark the interest in modding this motor and get some of the bigger companies to start manufacturing the things we want.

So things I will be designing, fabricating, and testing.
To get good power FI must be used so I will stay away from parts that only make small improvements when used with a turbo.

So FI on the market as of now is Rotex Supercharger from URD and to modify a STS turbo for the 1GR.

Im looking to design a low mount turbo manifold as well as a higher mount manifold.
Please leave comments and opinions on parts mentioned as well as new ideas.
Intake manifold will also be in the works. I can design an intake and perform simulated flow test. Then I will 3D print it and conduct actual flow bench test. It cost about $400 to 3D print one of these the first time, but after it is dynoed and proven we can make a group purchase.
Also looking for a transmission solution. What type of trans would you guys want to see bolted to a 2TR??

 

Subscribed. Need more horses

 

Sub'd

 

This should get interesting..........

 

Stay away from the STS kit. Including the "universal" kit. Nothing but cheap parts and material. Been there.

If you need to know which parts are necessary for a turbo kit, I will help you out. I have a feeling that you already know for the most part though.

 

Yeah def staying away from the STS.
Ive done a couple turbo setups but always used aftermarket turbo manifolds.

I just ordered a long block to start developing parts. Test 1 will be to see how strong factory rods are. I'm going to pull measurements off of the pistons and rods to order a custom set of pistons. The motor will get some light machining and head ported.
Then custom manifold and turbo time!!

Going to push it till it pops!!

 

Alright please fill out this preference sheet. Rather you plan to buy it, sorta interested, or even if you don't own a 2.7 and just want to state what you think would be cooler.

Turbo manifold
Tube material:
Flange material:
Tube OD:
Tube thickness:
Turbo flange thickness:
Manifold thickness:
Manifold style:
Do you own a tacoma:
Ever had a turbo vehicle:
Do you own a 2/3 rz:
Do you own a 2tr:
Would you be interested in purchasing:

This is just to give me a general census on the people commenting on the thread.

 

Flange: 3/8 - 1/2"
Tube diameter: 16 gauge
Tube material: 321 stainless
Manifold style: twin scroll (space permitting)
Flange material: most use mild steel. Some use 304 less use 321

ARP head studs and cometic gaskets as well.

 

Also this will be just a discussion thread to bounce around ideas....once parts start coming in I'll make a build thread.

Hey torspd I read your build thread! Great job but alot tough lessons.
So besides the STS kit not providing very great part quality how did you like the actual idea of a remote or rear mounted turbo?
I've been tossing around the idea of designing just a better rear mount kit.
My hot side tube would just connect to the end of the header flange. I would try to make it without any hard bends as well. How far back is the turbo positioned? Is it right behind the cab?
The reason I am thinking of doing this is just because alot of 2tr owners are still under warranty and if something should happen its alot easier to drop the rear mount turbo and bolt factory exhaust back up then to swap everything under the hood.

 

A properly designed and constructed mid/rear mount turbo can work very well. And be much easier to install. The kicker is intake routing and location.

 

V-bands, turbo lined flex coupling, properly sized intake tubing for added length and properly matched turbo.

Check valve for brake booster hose, and re-routed (if necessary) PCV hoses to prevent pressurized air from entering the crank case, are also a must.

 

I have a 2tr. I would love more power. Cash is what's holding me back.

 

in

 

Yeah I thought I knew everything I needed about turbos but I have not had a lot of failed attempts and I'm sure you have learned a lot more then me from your experiences. So I will def be asking for your advice!

Yes you have to have money to go fast, but I'm not trying to make money off of this at all. That's the thing I love about car/truck culture, people would take the shirt off their back to help you even without knowing you. I like making friends and helping people out. I'm sure we can work something out one day..

I'm in the process of moving, finishing a huge contract at work, taking my GF to Paris for Christmas, and I just bout a Camaro ZL1. Sooo been kind of busy, but will update with some 3D designs soon.

 

sub'd

 

I was given a good book, and asked/researched a lot. Most recently, I was introduced to something dubbed, "The Rocket" (external combustion). That one has been taken to the bank! Makes a turbo kit perform like a s/c. Very cool indeed.

 

Way to go torspd...now I have been researching this all day. They are doing a good job keeping it under key exactly how they are doing it.
I get the basic idea just a couple questions I'm pondering....guess I might have to dive in this can of worms.

 

600 horse would be about right.

 

I understand it principally. My only question, is where are they installing the AFR sensor to read the combustion ratio of the engine? Pre "Rocket" or post "rocket".

I ask that because when tuning for boost, you want your AFR's in the low 11's. Obviously, that means that there will be unburnt fuel in the exhaust. Which then goes into the turbo and out the down pipe. Then that is where you would normally place the AFR sensor. Post turbo, in the down pipe.

Throw the "rocket" into the mix, and it uses the unburnt fuel in the exhaust as fuel for its external combustion process. So the fuel would first be burnt by the engine, then again by the rocket which is pre turbo. That being the case, if the AFR sensor is in the normal location, it could quite possibly have a leaner reading. Which would be false for what the engine is doing.

"Hmmmm", as of now is the proper term.

My friend Grumpy showed the article to me. Figured I'd share the hint to those who are truly interested.

 

2/3RZ can easily could. Just need someone to do it with the 2TR now.