The *Official Photography Thread*

What body are you shooting with tj?

I tried two 400 5.6 lenses from b&h both brand new and both drastically different from each other...both not sharp as the main problem. Tried tripod test shots at all kinds of setups and all were just soft. My other lenses are ok but I'm wondering if the tele is just multiplying an underlying problem with the body. I have a 60D which I'm really bummed doesn't let me micro adjust focus! Not sure what I'm going to do but I'll reccomend b&h to anyone with how they handled it with me. Been eying a 6D recently as a refurb

Edit: as you guys saw my first 400 took ok lookin photos but not good enough for me to justify keeping. If you check out my flickr you'll see a photo of an antelope at full frame and then 100% to show the softness

 

Post a picture with the EXIF intact. Let's see if that tells anything.

Normally, the IS remains on while the shutter is half depressed but you shouldn't see anything moving around inside the lens body.

You say shots with the monopod or otherwise stabilized are OK? Not sure if you know about the IS modes. They are "1", and "2". Mode 2 is used when horizontal panning. Mode 1 for all other stuff. If you are on a monopod or tripod, turn the IS off.

On a side note, the 100-400 has a switch to control the focus distance. You generally want it to be in the middle to far distances. Using the entire range is pretty slow. If you want to be sure, and the body supports it, turn the audible focus lock on-it will give you a beep when focus is locked. It might also be helpful to use the back button "*" to focus to be sure you don't lose focus if you let up on the shutter button.

 

You better not get a 6d! Haha

 

probably wont...lots else soaking up money atm

 

My jealousy would reach overload levels..haha

 

I shoot with a T3. I had the choice to upgrade body and possibly buy a lens, or buy a rig... I bought a rig.

I had the IS on today. I didn't shoot any tripod shots, just the mono so I left it on. It was on mode 1 and the distance was 1.8m-infinity.
I just did a little experiment, on a tripod, using the shutter delay. With the IS on, when you half depress the button you can see the image in the view finder shift down and left a little bit, then when you release, the it moves back and you can hear it click inside the lens. Without the IS off course is doesn't do that, but they still aren't sharp. They are sharper at 100 than they are at 400.
The only thing I did to this one is convert to jpeg.
IMG_3364 by Flyin' B photography, on Flickr

 

Yeah, well thanks a lot, you friggin broke it!

Here is two of my test shots. The first with my 10-22, the second with the 100-400, at 100.

IMG_3511 by Flyin' B photography, on Flickr

IMG_3513 by Flyin' B photography, on Flickr

 

Huh, yeah I've noticed that with some of my pictures at longer distances, but that usually happens with my 70-300.
I would try playing around with the auto-focus settings, I guess. Can you tell if it's consistently focusing just a little farther away or a little closer than where you want?
The other thing that I've started doing to avoid slightly missing the focus is having as little time as possible between the half-click and the full click of the shutter button. That way there's much less chance of the subject or I moving out of the focus range in the time between when the auto focus focuses and when I take the picture.
I think the other option for that is to use the continually adjusting auto focus mode (Al Servo) to automatically adjust. I just tried it with my T2i and 400mm and it seemed really slow, though, but that might've just been because I'm in pretty low light right now.

 

Those with the longer shutter, (0.8&0.6) were the tests on my tripod, with the shutter delay. I have heard the 1/focal length rule too, and try to follow it the best I can.

 

Ben, I've been using that rule but found that I have to even go to a faster shutter speed to really get the camera shake blur out. Definitely thanks for sharing that, though, it really helped!

 

Pretty sure that's a MD-11F not a DC-10

 

400 is 640 on Canon, 600 on Nikon crop.


As much as it would suck, I would love to find out this is user error, and I could learn from it, so I am open to all opinions, and offers of help so don't worry about that. In those test shots the IS was off. I always try to remember to shut the IS off when its on the tripod, most of the time I remember. In the hawk photo it was on, in mode 1, which is what it was on all day.

 

I don't think the dc-10 was ever commercially produced with winglets like that one

 

10 second delay. I don't have a remote. I was pushing the button as gently as I could so it would cause as little movement as possible.

 

I'll call them in the morning, hopefully they will work with me.

 

So one thing I do when I shoot on a tripod or monopod is turn IS off. Otherwise, mode 2. You won't get acceptable results using mode 1 unless you are hand held.

Also, you can use the general rule of thumb that 1/focal length is the minimum shutter speed you should go to avoid motion blur. Faster is better, especially when you're first learning to shoot long. The click/whir you hear are the IS and focus motors.

Try the following. Get your shutter speed up around 1000/s. Using mode 1, hand hold some shots at 400mm. Then, mode 2 and on a tripod. Halve the shutter speed, 1/500, then repeat the experiment.

Also, when you're holding the lens, be sure you're not holding the focus ring-you're probably not but just in case

Good luck!

 

I kinda find it hard to believe all of you shots are oof unless there is something wrong with it! Especially if you thought a element shifted? Out of three 100-400's i have used there are definitely some that are not as sharp but its not something like what your talking about. That thing would have already been in the dumpster by now if that was the case.
Try shooting a dollar bill or newspaper on the wall. Make sure it is well lit and shoot some test shots with both IS on and off at a quick shutter speed ~ 1/1000 sec. Follow with some shots at a slow speed ~ 1/25 sec or so. All images should be sharp at high speed and may help rule out if the IS wigging out. With IS off 1/25th will most likely be soft. With IS on it should easily be sharp at 1/25th. I wouldn't bother with the tripod try it handheld as it will give you a better representation of the IS. Try One shot mode with focus beep. Maybe try at 100mm and 400mm and really take dof into consideration. Thats where most people run into trouble. Dof is so shallow at 400 or even 640mm.

* try Ians experiment too... I type to slow!

 

I think it's IS related. At least, I hope it is.

But if you can't get good results, call BorrowLenses. I'm confident they'll help you out.

 

Few pictures from this summer. Just some helmet cam and older ruggedized point and shoot. I don't have spare cash for a fancy camera right now.

"Chasing Shadows"


Following the road.


The end of an amazing weekend.


Wheeeeeeeeeeee!


Warp Speed!


Oh FSCK!


Summer love. Alas it was not to be, but it forever changed my soul.




Wish I had a nicer camera for this shot.

 

Great pics!