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Old 02-11-2013, 02:45 PM   #41
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Looking good. You have a great project going.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:38 PM   #42
dont tread on me!
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Nice.. Wish I had not seen this thread,I've got enough projects.
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:40 AM   #43
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I should've used a thinner panel here, plans call for 1/8" and this is 5mm (.197"). As it is there's so much tension that it's causing the top two 2x2's to warp upwards. This may cause the roof skin to wrinkle and make interrior cabnet installation difficult. I'm going to try putting a 1x4 beam underneath the center 2x2 to pull it down and just make the beam part of the framing for the cabover storage compartment.
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:17 AM   #44
Big tars, little/no bed.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
I should've used a thinner panel here, plans call for 1/8" and this is 5mm (.197"). As it is there's so much tension that it's causing the top two 2x2's to warp upwards. This may cause the roof skin to wrinkle and make interrior cabnet installation difficult. I'm going to try putting a 1x4 beam underneath the center 2x2 to pull it down and just make the beam part of the framing for the cabover storage compartment.
In the sections where its possible just use a 2x4 instead of 2x2's, or add more 2x2's...it should affect your insulating "pockets" that much. Just a thought...
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:19 AM   #46
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Quote:
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In the sections where its possible just use a 2x4 instead of 2x2's, or add more 2x2's...it should affect your insulating "pockets" that much. Just a thought...
I thought about that, I'm trying to keep the weight down and I'm doing framing inside anyway. The last 2x2 was warped the other way before I installed it. I put 90 lbs. on top of the 2x2 to get it flat while the glue was drying.
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:09 PM   #47
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Its looking great. You are really flying through that build. I'm looking forward to the finished product.
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:11 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
I should've used a thinner panel here, plans call for 1/8" and this is 5mm (.197"). As it is there's so much tension that it's causing the top two 2x2's to warp upwards. This may cause the roof skin to wrinkle and make interrior cabnet installation difficult. I'm going to try putting a 1x4 beam underneath the center 2x2 to pull it down and just make the beam part of the framing for the cabover storage compartment.
I am not a professional wood worker like some here are so they might help you better but I have curved thin sheets of wood,wall board, plastic, metal etc using shallow kerfs. On the outside of the curve you space a series of very shallow cuts about a half inch apart and it relieves the stress . Since it won't be seen it might help you out, if you have a piece of scrap try it on that see if the curve doesn't settle down some. Found this on youtube not exactly what your trying to do since it is not thick material but it shows how it works. If you want to do it with out removing the part find a skin knife or plastic cutter I know hyde makes one and it works on metal,wood,plastic,wall board . This is what they look like http://hydestore.com/hyde-tools-4573...ic-cutter.html it works by drawing it toward you it cuts a very shallow score so it might take a few passes per kerf line. Very nice work though can't wait to see how it looks when it is complete. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYfRyt6OQkY
Cypher
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:12 PM   #49
Big tars, little/no bed.
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Or park a steamer underneith it for a while.
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:17 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by NwiTACO View Post
Or park a steamer underneith it for a while.

Good idea but I would be worried about what it would do to the surrounding wood . However, I am not a pro just a thought.

Cypher
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:26 PM   #51
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Great work so far! Sub'd
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:06 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypherian View Post
Good idea but I would be worried about what it would do to the surrounding wood . However, I am not a pro just a thought.

Cypher
I think it would be best to remove the piece of plywood first, then make a makeshift "steam tent" maybe using a pot of boiling water and a tarp? Just thinking out loud here. Or you could try very thin wood, which will bend easier, and sandwich more than one piece together.

Awesome build by the way. I admire your work thus far. What will you be using for siding/roof?
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:18 PM   #53
Big tars, little/no bed.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRNDAN View Post
Awesome build by the way. I admire your work thus far. What will you be using for siding/roof?
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I plan on using aluminum. I'll insulate it with either styrofoam or fiberglass.
http://www.hemetvalleyrv.net/rollforms.html
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:34 PM   #54
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Working on the interior. Started some cabinetry.
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:17 AM   #55
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The plans ya got are for import? Are the plans easy to follow?
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:41 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by Kolunatic View Post
The plans ya got are for import? Are the plans easy to follow?
Yes, the Importer. They are easy to follow. I've haven't been doing things exactly as the plans state. The plans call for assembling the framing with corrugated fasteners on a flat surface then attaching the plywood. I couldn't get the corrugated fasteners driven into the wood without splitting it, so I've been glueing and clamping the frame piece by piece to the plywood, let sit for 24hrs and adding screws after. Slow process but works for me. Where I can't clamp it's glue and screw in one shot.

I've been shopping Lowe's and Home Depot for wood and found the Select Pine 1x2 at Home Depot is better than the Top Choice 1x2 at Lowe's. The plan calls for #10x1-3/4" screws and I switched to #10x2" for attaching the wall assemblies together.

I've changed a couple dimensions on this drawing, the 18-1/2" is now 19" and the base with reduced by 1" so 38" inside. The 19" may be a bit low, when I get the jacks the brackets may need more clearance between camper and truck bed rails.


The floor frame is the only section I assembled without plywood. Instead of corrugated fasteners I used composite deck screws through the frame. Flat head screws where splitting the 1x2. These screws pull the pieces togethers really well and the holes are countersunk so the heads recess.

(click photo for link to screws)

I would do this floor frame different if I built another camper. I would run the center frame pieces crosswise so they would be supported by the ridges in the truck bed. I'm looking for some u-channel or rectangular tube to put under the camper. I had a Palomino camper that the manufacture had u-channel crosswise under the bottom. I think it kept the floor underneath dry.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:18 AM   #57
dont tread on me!
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I see what ya mean on floor. Running crossways would be better. I had a palomino. Paid 100$ for it. Fixed it up,used it,sold it for 500$. I like this project. No tires or tags needed.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:19 AM   #58
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I'm really enjoying this build. You're doing a fantastic job. What are you using for adhesive? Both for framing, and for attaching plywood to the framing.
I can't wait to see how you outfit the interior.

Darin
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:25 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ober27 View Post
I'm really enjoying this build. You're doing a fantastic job. What are you using for adhesive? Both for framing, and for attaching plywood to the framing.
I can't wait to see how you outfit the interior.

Darin
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