I purchased my Dynolock from USATruck.net as they had the lowest price plus free shipping. The item arrived in a single package containing the actuator and mounting bracket already assembled, two strands of 18/2 gauge wire (short and long), mounting hardware, and instruction sheet.
First, do not believe the instructions that this install takes 30 minutes with basic hand tools. Installation took me three hours to install properly with a number of improvements. The instructions that came with the product were mediocre. Below is my installation procedure and corresponding photos.
- Remove the screws securing tailgate cover using T30 torx bit. I have a BedRug that I simply folded out of the way into the bed. (Figures 1 & 2)
- Remove and discard the right-most M6 bolt using a 10 mm socket. (Figure 3)
- Remove about 1/16” from the top-right and 1/8” from the top-left of the plastic block at a 45º angle. The 1/16” from the top right will allow the Dynolock to be rotated further clockwise for proper alignment of the actuator pin. The reason for removing the 1/8” from the top-left will become apparent below. (Figure 4)
- Slide the actuator approximately into place and hand tighten the provided replacement M6 bolt. Rotate/align the actuator so the pin will protrude behind the plastic tab on the tailgate handle and prevent the handle from being lifted. This will likely be at the furthest point you can rotate the actuator clockwise. Secure the M6 bolt. I also added Loctite (blue, semi-permanent) for added security. (Figure 5)
Here is my biggest critique of the Dynolock: it is secured by a single bolt, leaving it susceptible to rotation. During a few tests with the actuator unlocked, I noticed that closing the tailgate firmly would cause the actuator to rotate out of place. To correct this I purchased a 2” mending plate, a M6 x 25 mm bolt, a ½” x 1” plastic spacer, and a #8 x ½” hex head sheet metal screw to secure the other end of the actuator. (Figure 6)
a. Remove the M6 bolt nearest to the plastic block.
b. Expand one of the mending plate holes using a 10 mm or 5/16” drill bit.
c. Cut the plastic spacer to length (the distance between the mending plate and plastic handle housing with the mending plate lying flat on top of the plastic block).
d. Hand-tighten the spacer, mending plate, and 25 mm bolt into place. Rotate the mending plate so the opposite hole approximately aligns with the center of the plastic block.
e. Drill a 1/8” pilot hole into the plastic being careful not to drill too deep and hit the actuator or other bolts securing the block in place. Secure the opposite end of the mending plate with the #8 x ½” screw.
A further problem I encountered after securing the actuator was that the protruding portion of the rotating disk would get caught on the plastic block, preventing it from returning to the closed position. Consequently, I had to remove an additional 1/8” from the top left of the block to prevent this from happening. Such problems should have been foreseen and addressed by Dynolock.
- Connect the yellow strand of the short wire to the red actuator wire and the white end to the blue actuator wire. I was not impressed by the connectors provided by Dynolock so I replaced them with quick disconnects in case I need to remove the actuator or tailgate for any reason.
- The directions state to feed the short wire through the drain hole in the tailgate. Similar to previous posts, I fed the wire through the plastic inserts that guide the back-up camera wires into the tailgate. Remove these inserts by squeezing the tabs on the side, then unlatching it from around the wire (it folds together around the camera wire and secures via a small plastic clip). Drill a 5/16” hole in both inserts, avoiding the latching portions of the plastic clip that holds the insert together when folded. (Figures 7 & 8)
- Feed the wire through the 5/16” holes and reinsert the clips. Apply zip ties along the route in the tailgate and in between the clip. About 2 feet of wire should protrude under the truck from the tailgate. This will be attached to the long portion coming from underneath the driver side door.
- Remove the driver side plastic step plate by gentling pulling on the interior side until it snaps out. Open the white plastic clips for easier access to the wires.
- Feed the long wire up through the center of the gasket. This was actually quite difficult and took a decent amount of time. The trick that worked well was to roll the gasket over itself, essentially shortening the gasket and making it easier to feed the wire through. I fed approximately one foot of wire through the gasket. I then pushed the gasket back into place and rewrapped the gasket with electrical tape. (Figures 9 & 10)
- Peel away the electrical tape from the section of wire not covered with conduit. Unwrap the plastic covering. Locate the blue/black and blue/pink wire. These are thinner than the others in the bundle. Connect the blue/black to the yellow and the blue/pink to the white wires, respectively. You need to clamp these connectors FIRMLY. If you are unable to get the lock to operate, these connectors are likely the culprit. (Figure 11)
- Take the plastic wrap that was previously removed and cut it into two pieces approximately 1/3 and 2/3 of its original length. Wrap the smaller and larger sections to the left and right of the connectors, respectively. Wrap with electrical tape to secure them. I also used two small zip ties around the connectors to ensure they remained closed. (Figure 12)
- I covered the remaining wire and connectors using ¾” plastic conduit and secured it with electrical tape. Replace the driver side step plate (Figure 13).
- Feed the long wire adjacent to the other wire bundle coming from underneath the driver side door heading towards the back of the truck. Apply zip ties as needed.
- Connect the short and long wire at the rear of the truck. Again I was not satisfied with the connectors provided by Dynolock. They are not weatherproof, which I feel is necessary for the underbody. Instead I chose to solder the wires together and double shrink wrap each for proper weatherproofing. A single wire of sufficient length should have been provided to avoid the need for this joint entirely. (Figure 14-16)
- Once connected the actuator should unlock with a double-click of the key fob or a single-click of the interior door unlock switch.