DynoLock Electric Tail Gate Lock Install

[Wrekreation]

I bought the high security actuator model for the the 2009 Tacoma 4 door 4x4, with long bed and tailgate camera. The lock was on sale from Dynolock (www.dynolock.com) for $114. TTF07CHSA

This looked like it should be easy, I've replaced electric window motors before.

The instructions are fair. There are some extraneous notes like "Reconnect threaded lock rod." But no where did I find an instruction to remove the threaded lock rod.

Second toughest part was step 6 (install instructions are on their web page (http://site.dynolock.com/installation/toyota/ttf07c.htm). "Place the predrilled 1/4' hole in the DynoLock bracket over the threaded door lock handle stud. Install the spacer and bolt supplied by DynoLock. " What you really do is insert the 3/4" long bolt with a lockwasher, from the supplied parts, into the 1/4" hole in the Dynolock, then through the supplied spacer and bolt it to the tailgate using the hole that you pulled the original passenger side bolt from (throw the old bolt away). Pictures would have helped.

Running the wires, and removing panels were fairly easy, though it is nice to know that you can just pull these panels off without special tools. It took me about 1 hour to do the 30 min task. There is no color coding to the wires even though the Dynolock itself, the wires to the front, and the truck wires are all different colors. You just have to decide what you want to do.

The very toughest part was connecting the wires. Although the connectors work, identifying the correct wire is tough. Here's where pictures would have been helpful. In the door sill there are to bundles of cables. You are suppose to use the one that goes back to the rear of the vehicle and Not the one that diverts to the drivers seat. Then I looked for the Blue/Red and Blue/Black wires. If I had known these wires should be the same size that would have helped. The Blue Red wire is actually a light blue wire with a reddish/pink stripe and the other wire is black with a thin blue stripe.

After reading several blogs I noticed one of the major problems is not crimping the connectors tight enough. The nice thing is Jim at DynoLock knows the vehicle backwards and forwards and when I called he walked me throught the process of finding the correct wire.

Next, when I pushed the lock button all I got was a lonnnnnnng beeeeeeeep. I started checking connections. Later I learned that you get a lonnnnnng beeeep when your door is open and you try to lock the doors with the keyless entry system. That's why Dynlock recommends us use the lock/unlock button on the Driver's door.

After all this the lock still would't engadge. After studying it for about 10 min I removed the dynlock and sliced off about 1/16 inch of nylon block that is part of the dynolock. It was pressing against the tailgate camera housing a prevented proper alignment. After trimming the 1/16, and reinstalling the DynoLock it worked very nice. I put it all together and it works very well. It unlocks with the passenger doors.

I don't see any reason why the DynoLock won't last a long time. I originally wanted a Pop N Lock, but I got tired of waiting.

[High-Gear]

I am purchasing one of these, but before I do....


Does the long beep occur all the time once the thing is installed, thereby negating the keyless lock / unlock?

[Wrekreation]

The long beep ONLY happens when you don't close the doors. If you have a remote entry system - open the door, leave it open and try to lock the door with the remote. Then try it again with the doors properly shut.

[archdynasty]

It took me about 2 hours to do the job, but I did the same thing that Wrek did. I had to shave a piece of the nylon block like he did and I got the lonnnnnnnnng beeeeeeeeep too. Everything works great though. You can run the wires under the truck and even into the cab via the rubber boot under the driver's seat that has other wires going through it. This way it stays watertight. Now if only they had a locking gas cap or door, that would be great.

[Phlip4x4Sport]

I was thinking about getting this but had a question.... With this installed can someone open up my main doorlocks by using a small 12 volt battery to the wires for the tailgate?
Thanks,
Phil

[Lifeoffroad03]

Originally Posted by Wrekreation

I bought the high security actuator model for the the 2009 Tacoma 4 door 4x4, with long bed and tailgate camera. The lock was on sale from Dynolock (www.dynolock.com) for $114. TTF07CHSA

This looked like it should be easy, I've replaced electric window motors before.

The instructions are fair. There are some extraneous notes like "Reconnect threaded lock rod." But no where did I find an instruction to remove the threaded lock rod.

Second toughest part was step 6 (install instructions are on their web page (http://site.dynolock.com/installation/toyota/ttf07c.htm). "Place the predrilled 1/4' hole in the DynoLock bracket over the threaded door lock handle stud. Install the spacer and bolt supplied by DynoLock. " What you really do is insert the 3/4" long bolt with a lockwasher, from the supplied parts, into the 1/4" hole in the Dynolock, then through the supplied spacer and bolt it to the tailgate using the hole that you pulled the original passenger side bolt from (throw the old bolt away). Pictures would have helped.

Running the wires, and removing panels were fairly easy, though it is nice to know that you can just pull these panels off without special tools. It took me about 1 hour to do the 30 min task. There is no color coding to the wires even though the Dynolock itself, the wires to the front, and the truck wires are all different colors. You just have to decide what you want to do.

The very toughest part was connecting the wires. Although the connectors work, identifying the correct wire is tough. Here's where pictures would have been helpful. In the door sill there are to bundles of cables. You are suppose to use the one that goes back to the rear of the vehicle and Not the one that diverts to the drivers seat. Then I looked for the Blue/Red and Blue/Black wires. If I had known these wires should be the same size that would have helped. The Blue Red wire is actually a light blue wire with a reddish/pink stripe and the other wire is black with a thin blue stripe.

After reading several blogs I noticed one of the major problems is not crimping the connectors tight enough. The nice thing is Jim at DynoLock knows the vehicle backwards and forwards and when I called he walked me throught the process of finding the correct wire.

Next, when I pushed the lock button all I got was a lonnnnnnng beeeeeeeep. I started checking connections. Later I learned that you get a lonnnnnng beeeep when your door is open and you try to lock the doors with the keyless entry system. That's why Dynlock recommends us use the lock/unlock button on the Driver's door.

After all this the lock still would't engadge. After studying it for about 10 min I removed the dynlock and sliced off about 1/16 inch of nylon block that is part of the dynolock. It was pressing against the tailgate camera housing a prevented proper alignment. After trimming the 1/16, and reinstalling the DynoLock it worked very nice. I put it all together and it works very well. It unlocks with the passenger doors.

I don't see any reason why the DynoLock won't last a long time. I originally wanted a Pop N Lock, but I got tired of waiting.

Did it come with the hot chick in the add

[Wrekreation]

I wouldn't have a clue if you could us a 12v battery to open the doors (unless you are throwing it through the windows). I wouldn't want to try it for fear for frying something. I'd guess that you could open the drivers door sill on your taco and find the light blue wire with a reddish/pink stripe and the black with a thin blue stripe, splice in some wires, close and lock the truck and hook up your 12v battery. Let me know the results.

[T@co_Pr3runn3r]

Originally Posted by archdynasty

Now if only they had a locking gas cap or door, that would be great.

There's a Stant locking cap. Better than nothing. Have had no issues with mine.

[PSUnick]

Originally Posted by Phlip4x4Sport

I was thinking about getting this but had a question.... With this installed can someone open up my main doorlocks by using a small 12 volt battery to the wires for the tailgate?
Thanks,
Phil

Good observation Phil. I looked at the 2007 Tacoma Wiring Diagram, and it shows (page 202 and 203) the blue/red and blue/black wires are tied from the Body ECU to the power lock motors. I believe that you could unlock/lock the vehicle by putting a battery to these wires.

I would NOT recommend anyone try this because without an understanding of the body ECU I can not say for sure that you won't damage it. Although my guess is that you won't damage it.

[PSUnick]

Originally Posted by Wrekreation

I wouldn't have a clue if you could us a 12v battery to open the doors (unless you are throwing it through the windows). I wouldn't want to try it for fear for frying something. I'd guess that you could open the drivers door sill on your taco and find the light blue wire with a reddish/pink stripe and the black with a thin blue stripe, splice in some wires, close and lock the truck and hook up your 12v battery. Let me know the results.

He means tie a battery into the wires that are run back to the tailgate.

[DontPanic]

Originally Posted by PSUnick

He means tie a battery into the wires that are run back to the tailgate.

Theoretically that should work as it appears all the lock actuators would be tied together as you are tapping the actuator feeds to power the dyno lock.

[Lovie]

great observation, however somebodys got to know that a lock exists on the tail gate that is electric but if they figure it out and are smart enough to know how to tap into the wires, you could just install a diode in line with the proper rating for the load seen at the actuator. I am assuming(and we all know what that does) that the two wires are for Lock/Unlock.
Make sure you install the diodes in the right directions though because they function like a check valve for those who dont know. Id like to see the results!!!

[joeshmoe423]

Hello I'm new to this forum and I just finished installing the Dynolock into my 2009 double cab. The lock works great and I installed the wiring for the lock using the blue wire with black stripe and blue wire with red stripe found behind the driver side kick panel. The lock works when the alarm is armed but my problem is when I disarm the alarm to unlock the driver side door the Dynolock unlocks also. I tried looking for a wire so the Dynolock will disarm with the passenger doors (pushing the alarm button the second time) but could not find it. Has anyone spliced into these wires behind the kick panel? I ran out of sunlight and did not want to guess with other wires worried I may blow something. Does anyone know if there is a wire that signals the locks after the second push of the alarm button? If so what color(s). Other than the wiring the lock is straight forward to install and works great.

Thanks

[MudDog]

I just installed in my dual cab 2010 last week.

I believe your lock is unlocking on one press because you tied into the driver's door via the wires at the kick panel.


If you take off the drivers side door sill (pull up and it will come off pretty easily) you'll see a couple of bundles of wire. The one that runs back towards the rear door (not the one that turns to the driver seat) also contains a blue-black and blue-red wire. You'll have to take off some electric tape and black protective wrap to see the wires.

If you tap into the lock/unlock wires under the sill it should behave like the rear door (two presses on the remote to unlock).

[joeshmoe423]

Thanks for the reply and information.

Lock works great (with a second press from the alarm button) and using the wires that route towards the back is the easiest way to without drilling I think.

Thanks