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Old 09-10-2009, 01:17 PM   #1
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Penetrating Oils Article

> > Penetrating Oils Compared
> >
> >
> > > >
> > Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out
> > torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!
> >
> > *They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the
> > control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
> > "scientifically rusted" environment.*
> >
> > *Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
> >
> > None ..................... 516 pounds
> > WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
> > PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
> > Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
> > Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
> > *ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds*
> >
> > *The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
> > transmission fluid and acetone.*
> > *Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this */one
> > /*particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
> > use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
> > as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:33 PM   #2
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Good to know. I've never used any of these products because I've always been skeptical that they'd work at all.


They didn't include KY or Astroglide in their penetrating oil testing?
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:55 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgerm View Post
>> >
> > *The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
> > transmission fluid and acetone.*
> > *Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this */one
> > /*particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
> > use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
> > as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *
That doesn't sound 'safe' mixing chemicals. If that machine shop is an actual 'business', OSHA would go ape-shit if they knew they were mixing chemicals like that.

I've used Kano Kroil at work (GOOD STUFF) but that stuff is hard to get a hold of. You can't get it off the shelf at auto stores like you can PB Blaster. PB Blaster all the way!! It's been a tried & true product for my for many many years.
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Old 09-10-2009, 02:19 PM   #5
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Too bad they didn't include Deep Creep. I'd be interested to see how it stacks up.
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Old 09-10-2009, 04:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janster View Post
That doesn't sound 'safe' mixing chemicals. If that machine shop is an actual 'business', OSHA would go ape-shit if they knew they were mixing chemicals like that.

I've used Kano Kroil at work (GOOD STUFF) but that stuff is hard to get a hold of. You can't get it off the shelf at auto stores like you can PB Blaster. PB Blaster all the way!! It's been a tried & true product for my for many many years.
As long as it is labeled correctly and stored per the standard there is nothing wrong with mixing chemicals.
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:43 PM   #7
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May have to try the ATF-Acetone mix. Kroil and Mouse Milk has done me fine over the years though.
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Old 09-11-2009, 04:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98tacoma27 View Post
As long as it is labeled correctly and stored per the standard there is nothing wrong with mixing chemicals.
I doubt that....

How would OSHA allow you to mix chemicals when you can't even throw chemically soiled rags together in the trash? They have to be in special fire proof containers/barrels.
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Old 09-11-2009, 05:24 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janster View Post
I doubt that....

How would OSHA allow you to mix chemicals when you can't even throw chemically soiled rags together in the trash? They have to be in special fire proof containers/barrels.

The combustable liquids also have to be in special containers.

They even have a standard for determining the flashpoint of mixed chemicals.

Quote:
1910.106(a)(14)(iii)
For a liquid that is a mixture of compounds that have different volatilities and flashpoints, its flashpoint shall be determined by using the procedure specified in paragraph (a)(14) (i) or (ii) of this section on the liquid in the form it is shipped. If the flashpoint, as determined by this test, is 100 deg. F. (37.8 deg. C.) or higher, an additional flashpoint determination shall be run on a sample of the liquid evaporated to 90 percent of its original volume, and the lower value of the two tests shall be considered the flashpoint of the material.
If it is not kept for 30 days it doesn't need to be in a special container/tank.

Quote:
1910.106(d)
"Container and portable tank storage" -
1910.106(d)(1)(i)
"General." This paragraph shall apply only to the storage of flammable or combustible liquids in drums or other containers (including flammable aerosols) not exceeding 60 gallons individual capacity and those portable tanks not exceeding 660 gallons individual capacity
1910.106(d)(1)(ii)
"Exceptions." This paragraph shall not apply to the following:

1910.106(d)(1)(ii)(c)
Flammable or combustible paints, oils, varnishes, and similar mixtures used for painting or maintenance when not kept for a period in excess of 30 days;
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Old 09-11-2009, 06:54 AM   #10
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We usually use no2 diesel in a spray bottle.
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Old 09-12-2009, 05:04 PM   #11
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Hit with a Hammer. A guy at work asked me to help him with a big rusted nut on a union. We grabbed some wrenches, 2', 3', 4' and some PB Blaster sprayed it down, put two wrenches on it, one of us backed it up, the other did the lefty lucy thing. Nothing. I soaked it again and started hitting it around with a lump hammer, soaked it, hit it etc. Soon the PB was going down into the threads. Tried the wrenches again, it turned easy, finished up with channel locks. Hit with a Hammer.
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Old 10-10-2009, 09:56 AM   #13
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Wish I knew this a few weeks ago. I was trying to break off my rear brake drums with penetrating fluid. I used WD-40, and gave up after about 3 hours of letting it "penetrate". I should have done the home brew!!! Now I will know. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 10-10-2009, 10:08 AM   #14
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Huh, interesting. I've always used PB but I'm going to have to try out this ATF/acetone mix. Never seen Kroil before.
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:02 AM   #15
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I find just heating it u real hot and then letting it cool completely will break the rust bond and allow you to spin a nut or bolt out pretty easy...
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Old 02-22-2010, 03:46 PM   #16
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Have a spray bottle of water, onnce it gets real hot spray it. If it's still give you a hard time, repeat. Two or three times is all it take on real rusty nuts and bolts. The expansion and contraction breaks the rust.

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I find just heating it u real hot and then letting it cool completely will break the rust bond and allow you to spin a nut or bolt out pretty easy...
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Old 02-23-2010, 10:11 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afd23a View Post
Too bad they didn't include Deep Creep. I'd be interested to see how it stacks up.
Yeah, I wish they tested that also as well as In-Force from BG Products. We only use those two at work. We used to use Kroil (which actually works better than Deep Creep) but it was getting too expensive but awesome nonetheless.
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Old 02-24-2010, 07:48 AM   #18
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Brake fluid works best for me, and I can count the times on two fingers it hasn't.. My grandpa taught me to keep a little eye dropper full in my toolbox when I started wrenching on old VW's in my early teens. If it doesn't work, it was gonna break anyway. Just don't let it get on your paint!
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