URD MAF Calibrator

i'm not 100% sure but from what i read in this http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf it says its normally better to tune it with a wideband before a dyno but i'm new at this whole computer electrical stuff lol but i'm trying to figure out the same thing as u i would advise reading this for anyone cause it has alot of good info in it i'm about half way through and i've learned a hell of alot from it

 

scangauge2 now has the A/F ratio gauge and the open/closed loop gauge features on the Xgauge mode............u can pretty much check your fine tuning from that

 

look for xgauge features on their site......some are for all vehicles, Toyota also uses CAN settings.....open/close loop was the general setting, hard to explain because they have codes for short and long term fuel trims, banks 1-4 so you can fine tune to the max...just follow directions and punch in a bunch of code numbers to activate the gauge...I just couldn't get the oil temp gauge to load

 

using the scangauge to read short and long terms is not the best way to do it. it doesnt read fast enough.

 

I don't use it to tune, just to go back and check............I got the AFR gauge on screen to see what its doing in open loop

 

Just installed mine...pain in the balls! Thanks to TacoSupreem for all the help. Will take it for a run tomorrow.

 

i know someone said the maf cal should have no effect on gas mileage but has anyone noticed a difference in theirs after the install. im sure it went down after all that driving with it floored, huh?

 

did you have the plug n play harness or did you have to wire into the ecu?

 

just some info i noticed it was a,b,c,d,e from top to bottom on mine not the other way around but thanks for the write up

 

do I need to purchase the calibrator? I installed my tcai and I'm wondering if I'm going to have any problems (i.e. Cel, stalling,etc.)

 

no, it will just help bring out some more power and mpgs.

 

I just registered to say thanks for this awesome post. I am not really sure what I was thinking when I bought this. I couldn't have even told you where the ECU was on my 2007 Tacoma. Fortunately my map was the same as this one. If I can do it....anyone can with a little bit of patience and this post.

Some notes to add. It was much easier when taking off the trim that is mentioned. Big props to the suggestion of using auto-strippers.....I picked these up at Ace for about $14. Worked excellently in the tight space under the dash. All in all it took about an hour and a half but I used Butt end connections for the ECU Cut. The Auto wire strippers helped tremendously.

It died once on initial startup but that's it. I can feel the response in the backend which has been missing since my aFE stage 2 and Borla exhaust. I can also feel it on the highway...Its got a lot of jump between 45 and 70. I also find it to pur leaner and run smoother. Gadget preconfiged my box with my existing mods. They will do that for you if you ask.

I've got only one question that I don't see an answer to here. What do I do with the Vacuum tube? I've called TRD support but have yet to receive an answer. It wasn't included in the instructions. I would imagine its the line attached to the piece of white plastic in the right of your picture. But maybe that's the in case of Supercharger option I bought...so maybe its not used. I don't know but I'd like to find out so I can wrap everything up, mount and put the glove box back on. If anyone knows I would appreciate it.

After a bit more digging around this site looks like I will just PM Gadget.

 

UPDATE…..This has truly turned into a nightmare. Oh it started out well enough however my worst nightmare about cutting wires was about to occur. Per my previous post I had some questions regarding placement of the vacuum line. So I connected the unit via the 3 taps and ECU cut and left the unit in the dash unmounted. I can’t say what happened next. The A/C acted funny however I disregarded it because it worked again after 5-10 minutes. Regardless, after about a week and a half my truck died in a parking lot. Perhaps a connection came loose and shorted the battery or something else. I really don’t know because I don’t have those types of tools to test. I got it back home and resoldered all the connections, that didn’t work. I called URD support….nothing. So I had no choice but to send it off. $800 later its back running….minus the sensor.

So here I am with this URD MAF sensor. I still don’t know where the vacuum line goes and I have been told that it is required for the unit to function properly so my prior description was a fantasy. I’ve contacted URD support SEVERAL times. I would assume that they are respected members of the Toyota community but my experience so far has not been pleasant. I never blamed their company or their unit and I understand they are busy.

Needless to say after the $800 repair bill I will not be cutting anymore wires! With the included instructions this is NOT a DIY project. The included instructions are terrible…..in fact if it wasn’t for this post I wouldn’t have even attempted it. There is NO instruction on what to do with the vacuum line. Support tells me it goes somewhere on the driver side near the throttle body. Not sure how I am supposed to get that 3 inch tube all the way over there. Pictures and instructions would be very helpful not vague directions. TRD Support assures me that it is very easy and that they have never had a faulty unit. However I have called close to 15 garages that won’t touch this install. The one shop that will wants to charge me over $400 to put it in (not cost effective). So far way too much headache for a 15 HP gain. I would certainly recommend the extra money for the plug and play harness up front.

I am still holding on to hope that this story can have a positive satisfying ending. I will update with resolution....be it install or selling it on Craigslist.....or using it as a paper weight.

 

what vacuum tube are you talking about? there was no modification to any vacuum tube with the maf calibrator...it is all electrical...

 

were you trying to put in a cai and couldn't figure out to hook up the vacuum tube that runs from the intake tube to the engine?

 

There is actually a vacuum tube on the MAF Calibrator.

"We offer two basic URD MAF Sensor Calibrator versions. One is primarily for normally aspirated vehicles that use the signal from the throttle position sensor as the load scale indicator and one with a Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP Sensor). The unit with the MAP sensor senses the manifold pressure and is primarily for engines that have forced induction.
The unit for normally aspirated engines can be used for:

• Optimizing the fuel mixture for best power on stock or modified engines
• Correcting MAF Sensor error caused by aftermarket intake systems
• Remapping the fuel curve to compensate for high flow headers, exhaust systems, and cams

The unit with the MAP sensor for engines with forced induction systems can be used for:

• Optimizing the fuel mixture for best power
• Retuning the ECU for larger then stock fuel injectors
• Retuning for increased boost levels"

What might have made this easier is if I ordered the NA Throttle Position sensor being used to load balance. What I ordered was the one with the Vacuum tube. That way I wouldn't have needed to connect the vacuum tube and I could have closed all of this up and mounted it immediately. Thus negating the wiggle room that probably caused this short. This doesn't excuse the lack of documentation and support from URD however it does help me understand why most everyone else doesn't have a vacuum tube (even the fellow who created this post).

More updates to follow.

 

I think everyone is having a hard time understanding you! It shouldnt have been that difficult! Whatever calibrator you got is not the same that the rest of us are running! There are no vacume lines with the units that we all put in our trucks. It was the most easiest install i have ever done. Instructions were awesome! Cut the ECU and tap in a few more wires and its done! Most of us have been running our for some time now and have never experienced the problems you are having. Sorry to hear that they are not responding to you anymore! i would just keep trying to get a hold of Gadget. he will take care of the situation. as far as returning is concerned, being that you probably hooked it up wrong and damaged the unit itself, thats probably why they wont take it back. I mean, it does say have a qualified tech install this unit! Wish you were closer to us here in San diego, we could help you out!

 

yea unfortunately looks like he got the wrong unit and got himself into deeper shit than needed to be gotten into..