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It was a simple process, but easy to screw up. Give yourself about 3 hours.
Here's the process...
Unplug your battery.
Open your glove compartment and empty it out.
Press in the sides of the glove compartment.
On the right of the glove compartment, is a small damper. Squeeze the tabs together to remove it from the glove box.
Lower the glove box further and lift the bottom up to separate from the truck.
This part is optional...I removed some trim to give me more room to move the wiring harnesses. I removed the kick panel and the trim bolted at the latch for the glove box.
The white plugs at the far right are what you need to work on. From bottom to top, they are A,B,C,D, E. To make it easier on my, I labeled all the plugs, so I could focus on not screwing up other things.
Here is the wiring diagram. This is probably the only copy you'll find online. Enjoy. PM me if you want a higher res picture. The first 4 connections require you to tap into the wires. To tap into the wires, I used one of the automagic wire strippers. One end holds the wire and the other end pushes the insulation away. This allows you to keep the wire in tact and free up .25" or wire. Wrap the appropriate wire from the Calibrator around the wire from the ECU. The last two wires from the Calibrator are the ones that modify the signal from the MAF to the ECU. Cut the wire listed here, slide some heat shrink and wrap the wires together. Check and re-check all connections. When you are 100% sure, start all your soldering. After all the soldering, tape the wire taps and zip tie the around original wire to the Calibrator Wire. Then do the heat shrink for the other connections. Plug all the plugs back into the ECU.
Alright, almost done...connect your battery back and start her up. I let it warm up a little bit and then I gave it some gas. If everything sounds good, go ahead and stash the Calibrator up in your dash.
Initial drive was a little dull. I think my intake is quieter now. I think I need to retrain the computer through some aggressive driving. I don't know that the truck is any slower, but it doesn't feel any faster. I'll do some driving tomorrow and see how she feels. I've got my Dashhawk that I can use to measure some 0-60 times and I'll post those and some mileage numbers as well.
It should also be noted, URD now makes plug and play harnesses for their calibrators. If you're uneasy with cutting and soldering wires to your ECU, you should spend the extra $150 for that.
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