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URD MAF Calibrator

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Old 02-23-2008, 11:18 PM   #1
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URD MAF Calibrator

I installed the URD CAI www.urdusa.com a while back and I've been holding off on installing the MAF calibrator that I bought at the same time. Well today, I finally installed it.

It was a simple process, but easy to screw up. Give yourself about 3 hours.

Here's the process...
Unplug your battery.
Open your glove compartment and empty it out.
Press in the sides of the glove compartment.
On the right of the glove compartment, is a small damper. Squeeze the tabs together to remove it from the glove box.
Lower the glove box further and lift the bottom up to separate from the truck.
This part is optional...I removed some trim to give me more room to move the wiring harnesses. I removed the kick panel and the trim bolted at the latch for the glove box.

The white plugs at the far right are what you need to work on. From bottom to top, they are A,B,C,D, E. To make it easier on my, I labeled all the plugs, so I could focus on not screwing up other things.

Here is the wiring diagram. This is probably the only copy you'll find online. Enjoy. PM me if you want a higher res picture. The first 4 connections require you to tap into the wires. To tap into the wires, I used one of the automagic wire strippers. One end holds the wire and the other end pushes the insulation away. This allows you to keep the wire in tact and free up .25" or wire. Wrap the appropriate wire from the Calibrator around the wire from the ECU. The last two wires from the Calibrator are the ones that modify the signal from the MAF to the ECU. Cut the wire listed here, slide some heat shrink and wrap the wires together. Check and re-check all connections. When you are 100% sure, start all your soldering. After all the soldering, tape the wire taps and zip tie the around original wire to the Calibrator Wire. Then do the heat shrink for the other connections. Plug all the plugs back into the ECU.

Alright, almost done...connect your battery back and start her up. I let it warm up a little bit and then I gave it some gas. If everything sounds good, go ahead and stash the Calibrator up in your dash.



Initial drive was a little dull. I think my intake is quieter now. I think I need to retrain the computer through some aggressive driving. I don't know that the truck is any slower, but it doesn't feel any faster. I'll do some driving tomorrow and see how she feels. I've got my Dashhawk that I can use to measure some 0-60 times and I'll post those and some mileage numbers as well.

It should also be noted, URD now makes plug and play harnesses for their calibrators. If you're uneasy with cutting and soldering wires to your ECU, you should spend the extra $150 for that.
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Old 02-23-2008, 11:23 PM   #2
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Do you think the URD MAF CALIBRATOR would be a good upgrade for me? (I have a True Flow XDI Intake)
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Old 02-23-2008, 11:40 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05PreRunner View Post
Do you think the URD MAF CALIBRATOR would be a good upgrade for me? (I have a True Flow XDI Intake)
LOL! I don't even know if it was worth it for me yet. All I know is that it was $240 and my most nerve-racking mod yet. I'll have a better idea tomorrow when I get some more driving done. I really hope that it is worth it. The calibrator is supposed to be good for about a 15 rwhp.
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Old 02-23-2008, 11:42 PM   #4
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cool, be sure to keep us updated.........
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:04 AM   #5
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lsocoee, u da man
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Old 02-24-2008, 10:11 AM   #6
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lsocoee, u da man
I knew you were waiting on this.
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:05 PM   #7
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They are worth it if you're WOT frequently or in the upper rpm range. They really only adjust fuel mapping in open loop, so anything about 4krpm or WOT will it have an effect. It leans things out a good bit since the factory map is so rich. URD is going to be selling one that doesn't require splicing into the stock harness soon, it'll be plug and play, but it's bit more expensive.
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Old 02-25-2008, 02:33 PM   #8
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The truck is definitely faster. I won't say too fast, but I don't feel like I can floor it any longer.

The stock tires have no traction when I mash on it from a stop.

No performance tests yet...I'm paranoid about having other people in sight of me when I floor it from a stop.

I'm pretty sure that the supercharger would be wasted on me because I'd be afraid to ever floor it(well, maybe every once in a while I'd floor it.)
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Old 02-27-2008, 07:58 PM   #9
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Just curious if the tunning was relatively easy to do. Also, I know you didnt use the plug and play, but do you know if the calibrator still has to stay in the car or can you just tune it and take it out untill you need a retune?
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:05 PM   #10
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I didn't tune it. I used the map that was designed for stock plus URD intake.

I wouldn't think you need to take out the calibrator. It is soldered in there and would be just about impossible to remove without doing some damage.
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:10 PM   #11
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Damn it, i regret not getting the URD intake... I had my mind set on the URD, then i saw the True Flow XDI and i got the XDI. Oh well, i guess i could always sell it on e-bay once i'm tired of it.......
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvertaco408 View Post
Just curious if the tunning was relatively easy to do. Also, I know you didnt use the plug and play, but do you know if the calibrator still has to stay in the car or can you just tune it and take it out untill you need a retune?
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Originally Posted by lsocoee View Post
I didn't tune it. I used the map that was designed for stock plus URD intake.

I wouldn't think you need to take out the calibrator. It is soldered in there and would be just about impossible to remove without doing some damage.
Tuning is somewhat easy once you are familiar with the software program that is used. In order to get the biggest gain out of the calibrator, you will need it tuned even if you used the base map.

with the plug-n-play harness, it would be simple to remove the calibrator again if you wanted
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:21 PM   #13
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Tuning is somewhat easy once you are familiar with the software program that is used. In order to get the biggest gain out of the calibrator, you will need it tuned even if you used the base map.

with the plug-n-play harness, it would be simple to remove the calibrator again if you wanted
simple, if you have a way to measure the AF ratio...
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:25 PM   #14
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simple, if you have a way to measure the AF ratio...
removal of the calibrator being simple has nothing to do with the AFR. But all the same if you need to be able to see it, there's dyno's everywhere.
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:46 PM   #15
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removal of the calibrator being simple has nothing to do with the AFR. But all the same if you need to be able to see it, there's dyno'd everywhere.
I wasn't talking about the removal. I was referring to you saying the programming was easy. Programming requires you know the AF ratio (correct?) which is not easily (or cheaply) determined.
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:47 PM   #16
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Don't want to come off sounding like a prick, I think this was a misunderstanding. Besides, I'm the amateur here. I'm sure (sincere) that you know more than I do.
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Old 02-27-2008, 09:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I wasn't talking about the removal. I was referring to you saying the programming was easy. Programming requires you know the AF ratio (correct?) which is not easily (or cheaply) determined.
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Don't want to come off sounding like a prick, I think this was a misunderstanding. Besides, I'm the amateur here. I'm sure (sincere) that you know more than I do.
You are correct there. The reason i thought you were referring to the removal was because you used the word "simple" so i thought you were referring to when i said it'd be simple to remove it. No big deal
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Old 02-27-2008, 11:01 PM   #18
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So I guess my main question is... after I use it to tune the truck can I remove it and still have it tuned or does it go back to how it was before?
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Old 02-28-2008, 07:27 AM   #19
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no, you must leave it in the truck after it is tuned.
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Old 03-04-2008, 11:28 AM   #20
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