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My hair is all natural
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URD MAF Calibrator
I installed the URD CAI www.urdusa.com a while back and I've been holding off on installing the MAF calibrator that I bought at the same time. Well today, I finally installed it.
It was a simple process, but easy to screw up. Give yourself about 3 hours. Here's the process... Unplug your battery. Open your glove compartment and empty it out. Press in the sides of the glove compartment. On the right of the glove compartment, is a small damper. Squeeze the tabs together to remove it from the glove box. Lower the glove box further and lift the bottom up to separate from the truck. This part is optional...I removed some trim to give me more room to move the wiring harnesses. I removed the kick panel and the trim bolted at the latch for the glove box. The white plugs at the far right are what you need to work on. From bottom to top, they are A,B,C,D, E. To make it easier on my, I labeled all the plugs, so I could focus on not screwing up other things. Here is the wiring diagram. This is probably the only copy you'll find online. Enjoy. PM me if you want a higher res picture. The first 4 connections require you to tap into the wires. To tap into the wires, I used one of the automagic wire strippers. One end holds the wire and the other end pushes the insulation away. This allows you to keep the wire in tact and free up .25" or wire. Wrap the appropriate wire from the Calibrator around the wire from the ECU. The last two wires from the Calibrator are the ones that modify the signal from the MAF to the ECU. Cut the wire listed here, slide some heat shrink and wrap the wires together. Check and re-check all connections. When you are 100% sure, start all your soldering. After all the soldering, tape the wire taps and zip tie the around original wire to the Calibrator Wire. Then do the heat shrink for the other connections. Plug all the plugs back into the ECU. Alright, almost done...connect your battery back and start her up. I let it warm up a little bit and then I gave it some gas. If everything sounds good, go ahead and stash the Calibrator up in your dash. Initial drive was a little dull. I think my intake is quieter now. I think I need to retrain the computer through some aggressive driving. I don't know that the truck is any slower, but it doesn't feel any faster. I'll do some driving tomorrow and see how she feels. I've got my Dashhawk that I can use to measure some 0-60 times and I'll post those and some mileage numbers as well. It should also be noted, URD now makes plug and play harnesses for their calibrators. If you're uneasy with cutting and soldering wires to your ECU, you should spend the extra $150 for that. |
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#3 | |
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My hair is all natural
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#4 |
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Senior Member
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cool, be sure to keep us updated.........
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#5 |
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Give War A Chance
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lsocoee, u da man
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2007 Prerunner V6 TRD Off Road--Access Cab--Indigo Ink....'nuff said ![]() Mods: URD TCAI, TRD skid plate, ScanGauge II, USA-SPEC DF-TOY, Tint, Weathertech Floor Liners, OEM Bed Mat, bunch of other crap. |
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#6 |
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My hair is all natural
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#7 |
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Junior Member
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They are worth it if you're WOT frequently or in the upper rpm range. They really only adjust fuel mapping in open loop, so anything about 4krpm or WOT will it have an effect. It leans things out a good bit since the factory map is so rich. URD is going to be selling one that doesn't require splicing into the stock harness soon, it'll be plug and play, but it's bit more expensive.
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#8 |
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My hair is all natural
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The truck is definitely faster. I won't say too fast, but I don't feel like I can floor it any longer.
The stock tires have no traction when I mash on it from a stop. No performance tests yet...I'm paranoid about having other people in sight of me when I floor it from a stop. I'm pretty sure that the supercharger would be wasted on me because I'd be afraid to ever floor it(well, maybe every once in a while I'd floor it.) |
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#9 |
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Member
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Just curious if the tunning was relatively easy to do. Also, I know you didnt use the plug and play, but do you know if the calibrator still has to stay in the car or can you just tune it and take it out untill you need a retune?
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#12 | ||
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Senior Member
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with the plug-n-play harness, it would be simple to remove the calibrator again if you wanted |
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#13 | |
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My hair is all natural
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#14 |
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Senior Member
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#15 |
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My hair is all natural
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I wasn't talking about the removal. I was referring to you saying the programming was easy. Programming requires you know the AF ratio (correct?) which is not easily (or cheaply) determined.
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#16 |
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My hair is all natural
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Don't want to come off sounding like a prick, I think this was a misunderstanding. Besides, I'm the amateur here. I'm sure (sincere) that you know more than I do.
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#17 | |
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Senior Member
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#18 |
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Member
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So I guess my main question is... after I use it to tune the truck can I remove it and still have it tuned or does it go back to how it was before?
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#19 |
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My hair is all natural
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no, you must leave it in the truck after it is tuned.
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