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MOOG Part #K100128 Problem Solver Caster / Camber Cam Bolt Kit

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Old 06-03-2014, 05:21 AM   #61
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so what's the verdict?

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so confirmed that the 826-2 / 826-3 & 826-8 works?
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Yes.

I think you'd do other damage before breaking one of these, but that is a concern. I haven't beat on them, but the grease way is very small, and only on the head end of the bolt. MOOG has been at this long enough that I have faith that they got it right.
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Originally Posted by Eldo View Post
an update to this thread:

I ordered 2 kits from RockAuto for my truck to do both lower control arms. I received 1 updated kit, and 1 old kit.

So,.. it looks like they haven't gotten the old stock out of their warehouse (at least in the California warehouse). Now I have to wait for another kit to come by mail. UGH.

updated kit should include:
- "big" bolt, sleeve, washer 826-4, washer 826-2, and nut
- "small" bolt, no sleeve, 2 X washers 826-8
- kit also included the "new" instructions listing all of the proper washer / part #'s and their relative install

my wrong kit included:
- proper "big" parts
- incorrect "small side" bolt (too large), a sleeve, and 2 X washers 826-3.
so now the verdict is that the parts I posted a picture of are wrong??
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Old 06-03-2014, 05:39 AM   #62
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I'll have to crawl under my truck to check again, but I believe I installed what you posted:



For whatever reason, Eldo appears to have gotten the wrong parts in the box. It could be as simple as someone in the supply chain dumping the box and refilling it with the wrong parts, or maybe it was screwed up during the initial manufacturing as the first batch of incorrect parts were shipped. MOOG probably makes more than one set of similar parts for different applications, so I can see parts getting mixed up a number of ways.

FWIW, my boxes contained the correct parts with the old, incorrect instruction sheets (wrong part numbers for the washers on the sheets). On a related topic, someone in Boyd's LCA rebuild thread said they were told that their truck wouldn't hold alignment due to the poor quality of the MOOG bushings. I find that hard to believe.
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Old 06-03-2014, 07:51 AM   #63
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I'll have to crawl under my truck to check again, but I believe I installed what you posted:



For whatever reason, Eldo appears to have gotten the wrong parts in the box. It could be as simple as someone in the supply chain dumping the box and refilling it with the wrong parts, or maybe it was screwed up during the initial manufacturing as the first batch of incorrect parts were shipped. MOOG probably makes more than one set of similar parts for different applications, so I can see parts getting mixed up a number of ways.

FWIW, my boxes contained the correct parts with the old, incorrect instruction sheets (wrong part numbers for the washers on the sheets). On a related topic, someone in Boyd's LCA rebuild thread said they were told that their truck wouldn't hold alignment due to the poor quality of the MOOG bushings. I find that hard to believe.

Maybe he got one of the 4 returned sets I sent back before I got the correct ones...

I'd be surprised if the replacement one ordered arrives wrong
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Old 06-04-2014, 09:17 AM   #64
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I hope my next kit arrives CORRECT! haha.

As for installing the "wrong" parts,.. I don't think that it's possible. I couldn't install my "small side" parts due to the bolt being too large of a diameter (i received one of the old kits). If your "small side" bolt could fit through the bushing, and the washers were the correct size, you're golden.

Now I just need to keep my fingers crossed on the RockAuto order….
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Old 07-04-2014, 09:09 AM   #66
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Rock Auto shipped out a replacement kit with the correct parts.

All is assembled and now good to go. No issues with installation.
It's funny (dumb) how toyota has made an alignment bolt system that is so complicated / expensive. Lots of parts in the design that don't need to be there (IMO).
The MOOG design is more simple, and seems like it's built to last.
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Old 07-04-2014, 09:16 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by TrueNorth View Post
for some results.

If you want additional info they were first discussed here (I have yet to edit the OP and tell people the kit issue has been resolved).

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/sus...ml#post3691528

and this thread branched off of it.
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Old 07-04-2014, 09:26 AM   #68
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It's going on three months since I installed new OEM LCA's and these bolts. The nuts just needed a minor re-torque, along with all the other ones replaced while doing shocks/springs. Truck still tracks straight and true, so no worries there.
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Old 07-04-2014, 11:52 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by TrueNorth View Post
for some results.
As long as you have the correct parts, they work. Not much else to report.
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Old 07-05-2014, 01:42 PM   #70
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Good to hear. I'm thinking about getting some new bolts with the grease fittings. My alignment guy said mine are already practically seized, after 4500 miles. I think the bolts would come out though with some penates not and some persuasion. So am I on the right track here if I just do the bolts?
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Old 07-05-2014, 03:14 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by TrueNorth View Post
Good to hear. I'm thinking about getting some new bolts with the grease fittings. My alignment guy said mine are already practically seized, after 4500 miles. I think the bolts would come out though with some penates not and some persuasion. So am I on the right track here if I just do the bolts?
The MOOG bolt uses a slightly different cam scheme, so I don't think you can mix MOOG bolt with OEM cam. Even if you could, that won't address the main problem.

The problem is with the alignment cam seizing to the inner steel sleeve of the bushing. Even if the bolt can turn freely, the cam can seize to the bushing, resulting in the inability to make any alignment adjustments. The MOOG parts are designed to allow a grease path from the zerk all the way through to the inner bushing sleeve, so an occasional squirt of grease should keep all of the parts moving independently. I don't think anyone has enough experience with the MOOG parts to know how effective they are at combating corrosion, but they appear to be a good solution.

At only 4500 miles, I'll bet you can get the OEM parts free from the LCA bushing without much trouble. I'm guessing you see enough road salt (and ocean exposure?) to justify the trouble. It's far easier to deal with it now than when they're fused together.
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Old 07-05-2014, 05:09 PM   #72
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^Ah. Thanks. It seemed like that inner sleeve would be the source of the problem. I'm new to front end parts, so there's gonna be a learning curve and I haven't taken mine apart yet to wrap my brain around how it works.
The part pictured above is the cam and the bolt? If so is fixing this problem a matter of getting mine out so that the inner OEM sleeve is empty and putting in the greasable replacement.
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:56 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by TrueNorth View Post
^Ah. Thanks. It seemed like that inner sleeve would be the source of the problem. I'm new to front end parts, so there's gonna be a learning curve and I haven't taken mine apart yet to wrap my brain around how it works.
The part pictured above is the cam and the bolt? If so is fixing this problem a matter of getting mine out so that the inner OEM sleeve is empty and putting in the greasable replacement.
The sleeve is part of the problem, but the actual bolts as they pass through the bushings are the real problem. The bolt seizes inside the bushing, to the metal inside there. You can beat it, you can spray penetrating oil on it, it won't help if its all the way seized.

At 4500 miles, you should be able to remove your bolts, including the sleeve, without alot of fuss. Try nine years of salty humid goodness. The only way is to cut the bolts out, and they are hardened steel.

Then replace with the Moog parts, grease 'em up until they start squirting out the other end and just keep up with it as normal maintenance.
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Old 07-06-2014, 01:15 PM   #75
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That's exactly what I was thinking. I was just making sure that there wasn't some other part that I needed to get. I think mine should come out. Shame on toyota for doing this. Thanks guys. I'm going to order the part.
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Old 07-06-2014, 02:12 PM   #76
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That's exactly what I was thinking. I was just making sure that there wasn't some other part that I needed to get. I think mine should come out. Shame on toyota for doing this. Thanks guys. I'm going to order the part.
Nope, no other parts. As long as the alignment tabs welded to the frame are intact and the LCA bushings are useable, two MOOG cam bolt kits (one per side) and a loaded grease gun are all you need.

It's irritating to see how simple the MOOG solution is to the problem, yet Toyota doesn't make similar modifications to their parts - or just use the MOOG parts instead. Like the lack of greasable U-joints, ball joints, and tie rod ends, it's one more way to save a little money during production at the expense of an owner that plans to keep a vehicle past three years of its life. Toyota isn't alone in this, of course.
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:37 PM   #77
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Just received these in the mail and had faith in moog. well... their piles of shit and I will never use them again. the rear went in fine and threaded with ease. went to do the front and nut just did not want to thread without breaking a sweat. the washer slipped in the groove and stripped immediately. im just going with OEM im sick of aftermarket shit and this damn truck.
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:51 PM   #78
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Other than the incorrect size issue, this is the first I've heard of any problems with the parts. Maybe you damaged the bolt threads during insertion; I don't know what to make of your comments about the washer. Sorry they didn't work for you.

As an alternative, annual disassembly and greasing of the OEM parts should help prevent them from seizing.
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:00 PM   #79
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Other than the incorrect size issue, this is the first I've heard of any problems with the parts. Maybe you damaged the bolt threads during insertion; I don't know what to make of your comments about the washer. Sorry they didn't work for you.

As an alternative, annual disassembly and greasing of the OEM parts should help prevent them from seizing.
I was cleaning up the cross members and when I pulled the stock bolts out I noticed one side stripped so I replaced them with these. the front bolt would thread on till the outside edge of the nut then would get tight. so I put the bolt in a vice and tested to see if I was stripping it. it went on fine but was being a bitch. so I tried it again on the truck and that's when the washer slipping in the groove and the bolt spun and stripped the hole in the washer.
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:24 PM   #80
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I was cleaning up the cross members and when I pulled the stock bolts out I noticed one side stripped so I replaced them with these. the front bolt would thread on till the outside edge of the nut then would get tight. so I put the bolt in a vice and tested to see if I was stripping it. it went on fine but was being a bitch. so I tried it again on the truck and that's when the washer slipping in the groove and the bolt spun and stripped the hole in the washer.
I don't understand what you mean by "cross members", how an installed LCA bolt would become stripped without a lot of help, or what you mean by "the washer slipping in the groove and the bolt spun and stripped the hole in the washer".

The washer is keyed to accept the bolt shaft, allowing the bolt to turn the washer against the alignment tabs on the frame, causing a camming action, resulting in precise movement of the LCA for alignment purposes. Properly installed, I don't understand how the hole in the washer could be stripped.

Please post some photos.
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