bjmoose installs full OME kit & rear brake lines with pics

OK, I experienced some driveline vibes, and put in a 4 degree shim this weekend. Edited the post above with notes about measuring driveline flange length and the info below:

EDIT: diagnosing driveline vibration. Now, I had some driveline vibes in the low teens, from 25-30mph, from 55-60mph. I measured the driveline flange distance and got 51&5/8" TOP and 51&1/2" BOTTOM - so the top is 1/8" longer than the bottom - DIFFERENCE of +1/8" top to bottom. We want to get back to the original stock measurement DIFFERENCE (you measured it before, right ;-) or back to a difference of 0" or maybe -1/16" (bottom 1/16" longer than top)

I put in a 4 degree shim and got new measurements of 52&1/4" TOP and 52&7/16" BOTTOM for a total difference of -3/16" -- TOO MUCH negative difference. No surprise that on test driving, I've still got driveline vibes - at a slightly different sound and slightly different speed. Remember, we're only interested in top to bottom differences, but note how that little 4 degree shim made a 3/4" total difference in driveline length!!

I'll order a 2 degree shim to split the difference, and swap that one in for the 4 degree shim next weekend that should get me back to zero. or -1/16" Stay tuned.

 

Very Nice detailed write up & pics steve!! Will be checking back when ever I install my OME set-up Thank you and keep us posted!!

 

Stay'n tuned.

 

It doesn't bug me a bit that you guys post to the thread to subscribe to it, but there's an easier way to subscribe. Under "thread tools" there's a pulldown titled "subscribe to this thread."

 

Here's the first fender trim to clear the new 285/70R17 Goodyear MTR/Kevlars.

In order to just be able to drive lock-to-lock in the parking lot I had to do some trimming at the front of the fender well. Removed the shaped "nubs" that form, strengthen, and support the bottom of the front inner fender.

Here they are after they're removed:


To keep the rest of the inner fender from flapping, and possibly rubbing at highway speed, I fabbed up a simple bracket out of 9" of 1/8" by 1" aluminum strip. In addition to affixing and strengthening, it also pulls the inner fenderwell forward about an inch.



This is plenty of clearance at parking lot speeds. May need to do more to clear when the suspensions under compression in off-road conditions.

 

Edited original instructions with new cautionary note from damage illustrated in this thread: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/117332-lower-control-arm-profanity.html

 

Today I pulled apart the back end for the third time to change from the 4 degree shims to 2 degree shims. Driveline flange length is now really good with 1/16" diff from top to bottom (bottom is barely 1/16" longer, maybe a little less.)

That solved my 25-30mph vibration and I felt really good. But I still have "big truck" hum when under acceleration from 55mph and 60mph. No shakes, just sound. At this point, only thing I can think of would be to add a CV driveshaft, and the problem doesn't seem to justify that trouble and expense. I suppose another alternative would be to shim the transmission and transfer case down, and shim the pinion up, but I'm leery of changing the entire system in that way - again prefer the symptoms to the cure.

Also added toytec swaybar relocate to solve problem where swaybar was striking driver side coil on extension. OME isn't "supposed" to have contact issues there, but I was, and swaybar relocate is a really simple fix. Updated original post with additional instructions.

 

I required the sway bar relocation as well.

 

Nice man. Might do this myself someday, this tut might come in handy.

Are you like the only guy who didn't go with newUCA's as well? How was your alignment, any problems with the stock UCA's?

 

on some info... nice writeup

 

Got my truck back from the shop today after having them weld bead reinforcement into the lower-control-arm mount/adjustment points, and then do the alignment. (See http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/117332-lower-control-arm-profanity.html)

Code:

BEFORE
           Left     Right
Camber      1.1       0.8  (in range:    -0.2 to 1.3)
Caster     -0.6      -1.1  (OUT of range: 1.0 to 2.5)
Toe in     0.01      1.18  (OUT of range: 0.0 to 0.11)

AFTER
           Left     Right
Camber      0.5       0.3  (in range:    -0.2 to 1.3)
Caster     -0.1      -0.2  (OUT of range: 1.0 to 2.5)
Toe in     0.05       0.05 (in range: 0.0 to 0.11)

As you might expect for a 3" lift, alignment can't correct Caster without replacing the control arms. The shop offered to order some custom adjustable control arms at $600 EACH (just parts) and then install them at standard labor rates. Uh, no thanks. If I decide I want the caster correction, I'll get some and install 'em myself. It's a good shop, they're competent and honest. But nobody would mistake it for the cheapest fix in town.

Anyhow, I'm going to drive it a little first, before I decide whether or not to do the UCAs.

The original plan with the OME install was that it wasn't going to be so high in the front, so I wouldn't have any of these issues. And I had the chance to say I wanted 884 springs. But no, at the critical instant, I got "lift height fever" and said "go ahead and send me the 885s," even though this is a standard cab 5 speed with no options weighting it down.

At least I don't seem to have triggered any front differential problems. Yet. Knock on wood.

And it certainly looks cool. Now I'm looking forward to getting it dirty.

 

After reading your last post, I think that If I go OME I'll get the smaller coils, to prevent the troubles your having.

 

That's why I post this stuff -- so people get the full picture of what's involved when making their own decisions - more than just cool pics of shiny trucks sitting on fat meats.

But it's also true that I'm really not too worried about it. I'm not stressing out here. I've spent all this time thinking, researching, planning, installing. Now, I'm going to spend some time driving (imagine, actually driving!) my truck.

If after a couple months the stiff ride's getting me down (and it is stiff) then I'll order some 884 springs -- they're only $150. Or, if I find I like the ride and the ride height, but want more "return-to-center" from my steering, I'll score some Chaos or Camburg UCAs. Either way, it's the work of a leisurely rainy winter Saturday to put it back together the way I want it.

 

Good info is definately needed.

Have fun with that

At least you have options to deal with it with.

 

Thanks for the write up! I'm going to install my ome kit next weekend and had a question. I'm not too fond of the idea prying on my lca to squeeze the shock in so I was wondering if you think if I compressed the coil I could get it in there without having to be forceful. I understand the dangers of a spring compressor and that's why I'm going to let the pros do it. I just want to compress the spring after it's already assembled.

 

I don't know. Try it out.

Questions that pop into my mind are: will your spring compressor fit in there? Is there room to actuate it once the spring is in place?

I think most guys just end up using the "two-big-sweaty-guys-grunting" technique. I only weigh a buck-sixty, so I don't qualify.

Some use a hydraulic jack to push down the UCA. However, there are no good really strong fixed points, and folks have been known to bend a fender doing that.

Some disconnect the UCA at the upper ball joint. But that has its own issues and reasons for swearing...

 

I'm going to be swapping the uca at the same time so does this mean I won't have to force the lca down? I thought you did disconnect the uca?

 

I didn't disconnect the upper control arm. My photos show me using a puller to disconnect the tie rod end.

Guessing that if you replace the UCA at the same time as the strut, you won't have the same problem getting the strut to fit in there as I did. I've only built one suspension, so I'm no guru.

 

Thanks for clarifying and I see what you are saying. I'll have more room to work and thus can come in at a better angle. If I can't do that I'll try the spring compressor.

Thanks for the help.