SAS Quick Guide & Cost...

+1

 

It's worse on the go fast side...I'm $20k into parts alone on my long travel pile, and it's a "budget" build using as many used parts as possible. Most guys go look at the cost of the LT kit and think that's all they need. My rule of thumb is to take your pre-build estimate and double it.

 

What about for durability? I don't want to be swapping out joints very often. Also as I like to wheel alone, in remote places, it seems like leaves are a more well... trouble free option.

I do like the idea of the LC radius arm set ups but I like the flex of the leaves better.

Also I can't remember if this was answered on that build thread on TTORA but how does that guy like those 60s with the 37s, any word?

 

Well you would use big joints. Currie, Ballistic Fab, Parts Mike and Ruff Stuff sell them for cheap now (They used to be expensive). You can get them with a 1 1/4" threaded shaft and accept a bolt up to 1". They also come in "uniball" style or urethane bushing style. I don't use Heims a lot because of the wear. They get sloppy after a little while and start making noise.

You can get far more flex out of links than you can with leafs. And you can control things like dive/anti dive and roll steer a lot better with links. You're right though, leaves are a nice combination of easy and strong.

The Blue Tacoma DC? He loves it. We call it a Tacoma HD!

 

Thanks for the input.

I really do love that build and that's kind of what I'll be shooting for... mostly.

I like the idea of tons and I like 37s. If I can afford some custom 9s maybe I'll go that way but nice to know that he's running those 37s and happy. I don't do a whole lot of rocks so the diff clearance might not be paramount. Mostly I want the beef. I keep second guessing my self.

Thanks again.

I messaged Harry... the writer. You boys better have an article soon or I'm gonna track him down!

 

the axle was rebuilt when i bought it....oh and it had steering on it

my truck was very safe to wheel and drive it on the road.

barrow welder torches or plasma. grinding disk and cutting wheels from harbor freight $20 bucks!

as far as the shop goes....i built the truck in thos pics above. in a 1 car garage.

and thats what im talking about i've been buying parts at great deals over the last 2 yrs for this build right now.

no tires wernt free. i was just breaking it down as far as parts go and getting the swap done.

and as far as the $32 and a dildo that is fuckin hilarious and i agree 100%

 

Yeah when collecting parts over time it makes it a greatly cheaper budget. I really only intended this thread to be a guide not really "This is what it is and cannot change"

Boonie Buster on TTORa is building his rig and it'll be cheap, hes been collecting for ever.


If I spent more time collecting and found flat top knuckles and fabbed everything myself I woulda been around $5,000. Maybe less. I didn't buy any kit as you see. I didn't have to purchase half way decent lockers, I coulda welded my rear and got a spool up front. Didn't have to buy premium hubs, or chromoly u-joints which were $350. List goes on. But as of this day puting chromolly front axles in, I haven't broke anything. I have tried... Obviously I can break it if I want, but for what it does the only thing that stops it from making a trail is the tires. Not because its not strong enough

 

Great write up,with soo much info out there its mind blowing.Has anyone done or seen a body swap of a Tacoma onto an older toyota pick up frame with a solid axle?Would that be a "budget build"?.....Supra TT nice truck.

 

Thanks.

And most people dont do the body swap since generally when wheeling the truck will become a raisin eventually. I don't believe it would be a budget build at all

 

You hit the nail on the head about the unexpected cost of doing the SAS. So far I have been lucky and only ran into $300 of unexpected cost while collecting parts. I had to get steering joints and went ahead and did chromo hub gears. That being said the actually swap will begin in a week or so, so we will see what pops up.

I had originally thought I was going to get the front and rear leaf sprung for $5,000-$6,000 and instead I'm going to have $6000 in just 3-linking the front. The rear will come eventually but it wont be anything too amazing... just beefing up the leaf pack, u-bolt flip and putting in some long Fox shocks. So figure another $1,000 or less.

 

That's a good estimate. And leafs are great in the rear.

 

I speak from experience . I wasn't trying to direct you down the wrong path when I say the little things add up, and eventually you think you have everything and you will run into small problems costing you another $50-100 + time. I am looking forward to your swap, been following it since you posted it. Good luck man!

 

Yeah man, I appreciate the help. Like you said it's the $50-$100 here and there that kill you when you start to add it all up.

Thanks, I drop the truck off on the 19th. He said it would take 2-3 weeks. He's going to order the brackets he needs from Ballistic Fab and everything else he's going to custom fab. So we shall see how it goes

 

Well at least here in CA you can't put a newer body on an older frame. You are required to pass emmissions testing based on the year of the vehicle. And the year of the vehicle is usually determined by the body. There are limitations of course.

 

SupraTT - what is your opinion of Trail Gears SAS kit? I see people say trail gears stuff is crap and others say it is great quality, i don't have any personal experience nor do anyone i know. I am still a ways off from SAS but I have been looking at the basic A kit.

 

So SAS is $9,000?

 

They make a decent kit, for a great price. It doesn't include everything. And I highly advise if you do go with that kit find your own axle, their axles are...meh.

Not neccessarily.. Just mine was.. and then some.

To truely build a functional, reliable (aka not break every time on the trail) and DDability, it is roughly $7-10k. OR MORE.

 

Yeah no desire for their axles, especially at the price they go. For now my plan is a D44, maybe an FJ80 axle. I've got nothing but time for now so I'm just waiting and looking for the right one at the right price. eventually i'll find it and then i'll really have to start spending money to rebuild it

 

Sorry if this is a repost, i didnt see a post that answered my question, just what is the deal with the oil pan? Is it a totally different one you put on to avoid hitting it with the axle? And my other question, what exactly IS hysteer? I cant figure out if its just the tie rods and components used in an sas that can run off the stock pump or if its a new pump and everything. I'm just trying to learn more about this since i know a nearby farmer who told me to take whatever i want out of his junkyard for free! Theres an early model f250 4x4 in there whose axle i can picture ending up under my truck someday and i figured if i started gathering parts now, in a couple years i could end up with a good sas rig built on a reasonablylow budget!
Thanks for posting this its awesome info for anyone seeing themselves building an sas rig!

 

Well, the oil pan on the tacomas have the forward mounting location for the oil pick up, and when the axle is stuffed it will clearly hit the oil pan. When the new oil pan is used it makes it a rear facing pickup and allows for more stuff on the axle. Oil pan is the same pretty much, its the t100 oil pan (same shit just reversed oil sump) use the 3.4l oil pan from the t100 on the tacoma 3.4l. and the 2.7l t100 for the 2.7l tacoma.

Hysteer is just a form of steering set up mainly used by guys with leaf springs. When you run leaf springs and locate the steering gearboxes on our trucks it becomes clearance issues majorly for the leaf spring crap. basically it is just a "Higher mounted steering" Set up than the normal steering, or a mid steer. Has nothing to do with pumps, just a form of steering linkage.

Hysteer: Over the leaf springs



Mid to low steering under the leaf springs if they were to run leafs