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Old 01-01-2012, 11:05 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoffregen Motors View Post
It's a story more common than you might think.

These newer Tacos (2005+) are heavy trucks. I have built a couple of them and I have used Toyota based axles and D60 based axles under them. So I can argue the virtues for and against the D60 firsthand.

And this argument that Toyota is stronger than D60. Yes you are right, you can build a $6500 Toyota axle to be stronger than a $1100 junkyard D60.

I think that in a "bang for the buck" scenario, you can't go wrong with a D60.
$6500?
Damn you don't do much research.
It cost $3,000 max to build a Toy axle..I'm sorry but buying new stuff is really stupid, and even if I did buy new..I could still build my Toy axle for a hair under $3,000.
Providing I set up gears myself(which I would), providing I put everything together myself(which I would)

and $1100 junkyard D60?
I can get kingpin D60s alot cheaper then that lol..i'm sorry you have to pay that much
Do I choose to ? Nah I keep my Toyota stuff under Toyota stuff.


Bang for the buck? Yes, if that's the route you want to choose..I'm not denying D60 is a bad axle, but i'd still drop in the rock garden with my axle vs your 60...i'll come out unscathed...you might or might not..i'm not sure..but I know I'm 100% sure I won't break, I don't like breaking on the trail..
I've seen many many sheared rings and broken u joints because of locked 60s..
lock a 9.25 Toy with Bobby Longs and it's bulletproof.
I like gear reduction, not skinny pedal...

No need to get your panties in a bunch, 05+ Tacos sas? Cool if your into it, too much money money that I can't afford lol lol and too easily to mess up the body....and I'm only into older Toyota 4wds...only new Toyota stuff I'd touch is 2wd Tacoma again..
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Old 01-01-2012, 11:11 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supra TT View Post
Upgradeing the rear axle is silly. Tacoma rear can handle up to 37" tires just fine. Rear doesn't turn, therefor it doesn't need to be as strong as you'd think.
Not the second gens.

Edit: I see it's been covered. Carry on then.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:39 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post
Not the second gens.

Edit: I see it's been covered. Carry on then.
yes I forgot 2nd gens aren't real trucks

And yet somehow my 2nd gen does tons of pulling all the time and the rear diff is just fine
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:46 AM   #44
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so acording to supratt the dana 60 is the stronger axel and if you where so inclined dana 60's front and rear would be a nice set up for 40 inch tires.

if i ever did my truck thats what i would do

i'm thinking real hard on a sas and have been trying to piece together some info here and there for in a couple of short years i'm doing this to mine along with the diesel toyz d4d swap.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:15 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stunt man hans View Post
so acording to supratt the dana 60 is the stronger axel and if you where so inclined dana 60's front and rear would be a nice set up for 40 inch tires.

if i ever did my truck thats what i would do

i'm thinking real hard on a sas and have been trying to piece together some info here and there for in a couple of short years i'm doing this to mine along with the diesel toyz d4d swap.
1tons are the stronger ones, if youre gonna go all out and afford it go ahead and do tons, i still wish i had the money for tons but i have way too much $$ in my axles to justify getting rid of them
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:20 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stunt man hans View Post
so acording to supratt the dana 60 is the stronger axel and if you where so inclined dana 60's front and rear would be a nice set up for 40 inch tires.

if i ever did my truck thats what i would do

i'm thinking real hard on a sas and have been trying to piece together some info here and there for in a couple of short years i'm doing this to mine along with the diesel toyz d4d swap.
D60s have their downfalls though, they are very, very heavy and have huge pumpkins and need to be shaved. They aren't DD friendly either, so if you want to build it to be a DD it's harder than say a D44. D60 rear isn't the greatest, alot of people like the chevy 14 bolt rear end, especially once it's shaved. To each their own though.. D60 front is the way to go if you want serious wheeling to be done. If you have a toyota truck a toyota axle is the way to go, otherwise it's just too wide. Each have their strong points and weak points. I wheel with people with 60s 44s and toy axles and everyone does amazing, but narrowing areas of course the toyota axle wins.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:27 AM   #48
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now i'm just confused again lol.

it will still be my dd of that there is no doubt.

there was a guy in jersey that had sold his 2nd gen that had solid axels installed on it.

i'm trying to remember the name i think its was black diamond fab or something or maybe just diamond fab idk.

i heard they where pretty nice i'm not sure what axel he had under his truck though.

i still want it to be livable on the street but i want the larger tires and all the benifits that come along with the solid axel off road. so you think that if i went with a 40 inch tire that the toyota rear would be ok out back and a dana 60 would be good up front right?

edit: the reason i brought up the other members truck was because i plan on having a shop do everything on my truck and for this kind of work i would think its important to really do it right the first time around.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:32 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stunt man hans View Post
now i'm just confused again lol.

it will still be my dd of that there is no doubt.

there was a guy in jersey that had sold his 2nd gen that had solid axels installed on it.

i'm trying to remember the name i think its was black diamond fab or something or maybe just diamond fab idk.

i heard they where pretty nice i'm not sure what axel he had under his truck though.

i still want it to be livable on the street but i want the larger tires and all the benifits that come along with the solid axel off road. so you think that if i went with a 40 inch tire that the toyota rear would be ok out back and a dana 60 would be good up front right?

edit: the reason i brought up the other members truck was because i plan on having a shop do everything on my truck and for this kind of work i would think its important to really do it right the first time around.
Here's what I'd do in your situation:

First off, if you want to drive this rig on the street often, go D44 and run 35" tires and run maybe 5.13 gears, OR if you run a Toy axle, do 5.29s. But it all depends on what size tires you are gonna run.

Secondly, I wouldn't have a SAS'd rig as a DD. During the swap especially, you'll be out of a vehicle. And I know there's some fabricators that can do them quick, but why would you want a half-assed job that means you got a bunch of crap to fix down the road. And in order to run 40" tires, you'll need a fair amount of lift. There's a lot of things that need to be cleared. If you want to be street legal, you need to keep all this in mind.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:37 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UndefinedTaco View Post
$6500?
Damn you don't do much research.
It cost $3,000 max to build a Toy axle...
I put together an estimate to show where the money goes.



Estimate


Date: January 2, 2012


Job: Misc Custom Toy Axle Build




Qty
Description
Rate
Amount
1
Custom Toy Housing - Diamond
900.00
1
Core
400.00
1
E-Locker – 5.29 HP - Inchworm
1300.00
1
Longfield Superset
650.00
1
Longfield Hub Gears
120.00
1
High Steer Arms w/ 25mm upgrade - Marlin
450.00
2
Drill & Tap Knuckles for D44 Studs
100.00
1
Stud Kit – Steering Arm – Parts Mike
57.00
1
Hub Stud Kit – ARP - FROR
70.00
1
Tie Rod – 1.25x.250 DOM
80.00
1
Drag Link – 1.25x.250 DOM
80.00
1
One Ton TRE Kit – Partsmike
115.00
1
Taper Arms for TRE’s
25.00
1
Knuckle R/B Kit – Marlin
50.00
2
Brake Calipers – T/G
220.00
2
Powerslot Brake Rotors
220.00
1
Brake Pads –Hawk HPS
80.00
1
Extended Brake Line Set – T/G
50.00
1
Wheel Bearing Kit - Marlin
100.00
1
Rock Ring Kit – T/G
20.00
1
Backing Plate Eliminator Kit
20.00
2
HD Inner Axle Seal – Marlin
18.00
1
Labor – Build Axle
300.00










Total
5425.00
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:49 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UndefinedTaco View Post
$6500?
Damn you don't do much research.
It cost $3,000 max to build a Toy axle..I'm sorry but buying new stuff is really stupid, and even if I did buy new..I could still build my Toy axle for a hair under $3,000.
Providing I set up gears myself(which I would), providing I put everything together myself(which I would)

and $1100 junkyard D60?
I can get kingpin D60s alot cheaper then that lol..i'm sorry you have to pay that much
Do I choose to ? Nah I keep my Toyota stuff under Toyota stuff.


Bang for the buck? Yes, if that's the route you want to choose..I'm not denying D60 is a bad axle, but i'd still drop in the rock garden with my axle vs your 60...i'll come out unscathed...you might or might not..i'm not sure..but I know I'm 100% sure I won't break, I don't like breaking on the trail..
I've seen many many sheared rings and broken u joints because of locked 60s..
lock a 9.25 Toy with Bobby Longs and it's bulletproof.
I like gear reduction, not skinny pedal...

No need to get your panties in a bunch, 05+ Tacos sas? Cool if your into it, too much money money that I can't afford lol lol and too easily to mess up the body....and I'm only into older Toyota 4wds...only new Toyota stuff I'd touch is 2wd Tacoma again..
Now let me have a crack at your arguments.

1- How can you build a Toyota Axle as strong as a D60 without buying new parts?

2- Setting up the gears will save you $200.

3- A lot of people aren't stupid, maybe they just can't build an axle.

4- I'm glad you don't pay that much, but sometimes to get the right axle, that's what it costs.

5- How the hell does having a Toyota axle under your truck make you a better wheeler??? Don't tell me weight...

6-

7- We are talking about Strength vs Cost. Some people who have the money CAN build newer trucks. Don't make them feel bad about it.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:55 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supra TT View Post
If you have a toyota truck a toyota axle is the way to go, otherwise it's just too wide.
I agree. I have a '97 Taco I'm building and I want about a 65" WMS. But the newest Tacos ('05+) are very wide trucks and a 71" wide axle under them is proportionally correct.
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:24 AM   #53
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I forgot to add the price of custom inner axles for the Toyota custom axle. If you get a custom housing, inners cost an additional $500 for 30 spline shafts. You can deduct the cost from Longfield, but the joints are still $300 each, without shafts.
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:31 PM   #54
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everything has a weakpoint...hell even rockwells


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Old 01-02-2012, 06:37 PM   #55
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The best combo for lighter rigs that I have seen is a 14 bolt rear and a D44 front. I know of a couple lighter rigs that run this setup without complaints. Yes, they are not the "end of the world" strong setups; but for running <40x12 tires they are great. The Sami has 36x10.5 tires with hydro steering and it gets around great.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:14 PM   #56
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I'm likeing this thread

Stunt man, as far as running the stock rear axle, maybe if you have a real toyota axle, then yes. but the 05+ are junk I guess. If you want to run 60s on your truck as a DD you will need to have dropped about 400 hours of labor ( ) and about $10,000 $15,000k worth of parts. Tires alone cost $2k. And if you don't built it yourself, PM stoffregen about how much it'll cost, he knows.

My estimates are going by a VERY SAFE and RELIABLE DD rig. Not some thrown together junk yard piece of shit parts used on your rig IN ORDER TO SAVE YOUR LIFE AND EVERYONE ELSES on the road.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:12 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Supra TT View Post
I'm likeing this thread

Stunt man, as far as running the stock rear axle, maybe if you have a real toyota axle, then yes. but the 05+ are junk I guess. If you want to run 60s on your truck as a DD you will need to have dropped about 400 hours of labor ( ) and about $10,000 $15,000k worth of parts. Tires alone cost $2k. And if you don't built it yourself, PM stoffregen about how much it'll cost, he knows.

My estimates are going by a VERY SAFE and RELIABLE DD rig. Not some thrown together junk yard piece of shit parts used on your rig IN ORDER TO SAVE YOUR LIFE AND EVERYONE ELSES on the road.
Very accurate on the price right there ^^
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:14 PM   #58
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Very accurate on the price right there ^^
lol price is pretty accurate, we sas'd my shit in one weekend though (minus the gears) :P
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:15 PM   #59
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lol price is pretty accurate, we sas'd my shit in one weekend though (minus the gears) :P
I remember that. We took our time with the Ranger LOL

And hey, it hasn't had really any issues. One ruined shock and then just even moar upgrades. It never ends
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:20 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmack View Post
I remember that. We took our time with the Ranger LOL

And hey, it hasn't had really any issues. One ruined shock and then just even moar upgrades. It never ends
ive messed up a shock, bent tie rods, broke an axle shaft+u-joint, a drive shaft, and my front hanger...the more you wheel the more you find flaws in your rig and the more chances you have to improve it, especially if your broke...my next upgrade is chrome molly shafts, but really it takes a long time and alotta work to get a rig near perfect


the drive shaft was from it being a faulty part though...
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