Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Frame side separation?

 

on da taco max of the fj80

 

I was referring to adjustable height. Personally, I would (and will be) making both the frame and axle ends of the upper link adjustable for height.

 

Ah... that sounds like a good plan. So what does VS at the frame do. I've been reading and reading and reading and still don't really understand that bit.

 

FJ80

 

"As for the separation at the frame, the amount of desired Anti-Squat will determine this number. Think of the separation as leverage on the links and brackets. The closer together they are the more leverage or force is applied to them, which means you need to make them stronger, both link and bracket. Also the stronger your motor is, the more torque it’s applying to those links."

Good place to start-
http://www.4wheelunderground.com/Suspension-411.html

 

ive been thinking 3 link too for mine, but not sure when

I just fell into a deal for a whole 1hd-t truck....... where I could swap everything I need for my Lexus

 

That'd be sweet!

The land cruiser guys are weird as fuck, to be honest, ...most hate swapping anything non toyota and mostly they're about bolt on parts so don't go to ih8mud expecting much, at least for 80s. The radius arms setup leaves a lot to be desired off road, but not if you're on ih8mud.

 

I used a mock up tube for my shaft just to make sure my links clear it. At full bump My lower driver side link is about 1/2" from the drive shaft. It's a tight fit when triangulating long lowers so keep that in mind when placing your lowers. Assuming your doing a crossmember for your lowers and not going off the frame.

 

Yeah I'm triangulating the lowers, getting them mocked up now. Crawl box should be here this week and I should be able to get it squared away. But yeah, looks like it'd be a tight fit.

 

Pretty sure this is where the lowers will sit at ride height. ~5 degrees

 

It's like watching porn...

 

Sick, low ridin toyotas ftw

 

If you have the link clearance at full bump one thing you may want to consider is rotating your axle lower link mounts up to flatten out the lowers. It also generally keeps the links higher and out of the rocks just a tad more.

Just a trick I noticed on some of the 4wheelunderground link systems...so I copied it

 

I'm planning on welding some 1/4" to the bottom of the bracket to keep the joint off the rocks.

I know it's completely retarded to be asking now since I already did it , but is there any reason I shouldn't run the motor mounts like so?



It's unfinished, more plate will be added. I have it arching as much as it is to clear the upper link. Drivers side looks similar.

I wished I worked even close to as fast. How'd it do?

 

Mount should be A-OK like that!

 

Some bracing would help that motor mount for sure.

 

He's talking about the shape, its not finished yet.

And about the links Jon, I was referring to keeping the links themselves higher by rotating the lower mounts, not necessarily the joints. The higher the links are the less you are gonna be sliding on them, and the less potential for bending them, etc.

Think of it as having your sliders an inch higher than they are now, you would use them less, only your sliders are crucial to your vehicles performance..