Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Look at Rocky. He destroyed 2 ring and pinion sets in Moab running his 38's on Toy axles. They were both the rear interestingly enough. On the front he broke both hubs which is probably what saved the ring and pinion.

 

his second set got destroyed because of a poor set up. I told him it wasn't right when we put it together but he didn't give a damn.

 

Good to know

Lol I set up my 5.29's. I was pretty pleased with how it came out, I just hope it lasts. First time I'd ever set up gears..

 

I pulled my rear v6 3rd out to replace a tweaked diff stud and found a chipped pinion gear and a twisted Trail Gear chromo axle on the drivers side. I'll be going to a junkyard 14 bolt soon with a shave kit. The 5vze swap , 39.5" Krawlers and a twin stick is just too much for a toy axle

 

How's your front holding up? I'm assuming it's fully built? Only thing left to do up front for me is arp knuckle studs and trunion eliminators.

 

the front so far is great...so far.

i installed OG 30 spline Longfields, ARP studs, OG Longfield chromo inner hub gears, TrailSafe Knuckle Wiper Set which is pretty nice and the trunion bearing eliminator kit which is also pretty badass. only issue Ive had so far is a driverside outer hub gear and found that when i tore everything a part to install the Trail safe Wiper Kit. we'll see how it will all hold up after i install my hydro assist

 

Just curious by why are you going with a 14 bolt and not the dana 60 like everyone else does. i still have the 35 spline rear that came with my front 60 i went 14 bolt because i wanted it to be stronger and cheaper.

hydro assist will help save your gear box from getting ripped of the frame with big tires. Just ask rocktoy about that one.

 

Yeah I have TG 30 splines, chromo inners and outers, arp hub studs, TG rock rings and wipers, truss, and knuckle studs. Did you leave the stock outer hub gear as a failsafe? Mine's still a relatively new build so I don't have too many runs on it but I haven't been gentle.

What are your plans for hydro assist? I have recently started looking into that too.

 

i didnt intend to leave em on as a fail safe, but now that you mentioned it lmao

im following the writeups at marlincrawler forums to build a DIY hydro assist on the cheap. so far i spent less then 70 bucks on new hoses and fittings and on a used SurplusCenter ram. i also have a massive trans cooler from an F450 that ill be using as a power steering fluid cooler

check out these two threads on how to do the hydro assist on the cheap
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4699.0
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=10579.0

 

14 bolts are stronger then a D60 and a lot cheaper to build the a D60. easier to setup and the pinion support bearing thingy is pretty slick. and with with a shave kit i can still have the same clearance as a toy axle. i'll be going with a D60 in the front.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/index.html

like this?

 

yup nailed it ^^^^..

yeah all the same reason's i went with a 14 bolt even though i have a 35 spline 60.

though i am not shaving mine i want every bit of tooth on that thing. i trimmed the housing and that put me at just a half inch less clearance than my dana 60. im ok with that.

 

the teeth on the ring doesnt get touched when the ring is milled down, not even close. i think they're only taking less then 3/8 of the outside ring itself.

 

I know that i wasn't saying it cuz it makes them stronger i was saying it cuz i don't want to dick with a shave kit. i mean if i want to later i still can do that but for now im not worried about it.

 

I think its only like 1/4 of the ring gear that gets taken off. Tmr also has a shave kit that doesnt require the ring gear to be turned down. 5/16th's of an inch less clearance then the ballistic shave kit.

 

like i said im only 1/2 and inch lower than the dana 60 and all i did was trim the housing down to the sealing surface of the cover. if i get hung up on it enough to bother me ill shave it with the ballistic kit. I don't know if you guys have picked up on this at all but i really do love working on my truck and designing as much as i can on my own. that's why with out even hitting trails yet im changing to a 4 link..

 

I bought a surplus center ram and a seal kit for my 80 box, I've got to be in it around 130$, built my own lines -- free and everything else I sourced for free.

 

That's what I'm talking about...awesome!

I'm assuming that you're using a modified stock steering pump..did you have any issues with it?

 

Just stock cummins saginaw pump. I haven't actually driven with it but it turns 40s at idle sitting on pavement just fine. I need to drive it to see if I need to mod the pump but I've got a few things left to finish before it's ready to roll.

 

So I had to thread my top seat on my 14" 2.5 coilovers down like almost 3" to take up all the slack out of the springs at full droop. Otherwise the springs were banging around.

Now it sits like 3" too tall. Fuck man. Is that normal. 16 and a 14" spring.

Gotta run a lighter spring rate I guess, it's stiff as fuck anyway.

 

Yup way too much spring. You want at least an inch or two preload on the springs with the coilover fully extended. Good thing is since you have springs on there now, you can take a couple measurements ad figure out what you need really quick. Shoot me a PM if you want some help.