Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Huh???

 

Sweet!

When i was building my rear axle i noticed the parts were alot more $$$, i was like WTF!!!

Paper hub gasket 5bucks a side, get out of there with that.

What are you going to do about the front hubs? I know the longs were not warrantied on fj80s because they were "full time" 4wd and always spinning.

 

Im do dumb for links but it happened anyways. And what there's other things besides my truck to spend money on .

Yeah that's all true.

 

My house, starting a business, food...

My goal with my build is to take it back to Toyota basics, reused parts, leafs springs, f-250 shock towers, hacked up sheet metal, bumpers built out of scrap metal and no links and coil overs on this thing!!!

I have reservoir shocks on the rear so its borderline in violation of my own policy!

Now who wants to buy my lefty in 10months lol!!!

 

Not really doing links yet, just stock radius arms and coil overs. Radius arms will mount to tranny cross member then it's just welding on coil buckets
And doing the normal sas stuff lol.

As far as hubs I was planning on just running the stock fj80 hubs and not really worrying about it. Chris (redneck92) is going to be helping out a lot on this and knows more than I do about it. So he may chime in?

 

More than likely just run the stock drive flanges. The end game for this rig isn't a daily driver so the extra wear from them spinning all the time is no concern. That and it isn't awd so no extra stress applied on the street. The radius arm mounts will more than likely mount yup the frame Dylan. Mounting suspension stuff to a trans cross-member can make it a pain for pulling a trans out.

 

Yea that will definitely suck!!

 

Just going off that build on pirate lol. Plus well just have to measure it all out once we get the arms lol

 

I have a house but that's just a living expense as is food. A business well that could be important.

 

Good to know. Thanks fellas. I've been wondering the differences between fj60's and fj80's

Nah I just picked it up a couple days ago. It was an abandoned project. Gotta sell the 82 then parts will be getting ordered. If the fj60 can be reliable on 39.5's then I'll throw some 30 splines, gussets, ect in it then build some beadlocks, exo it, maybe link the front depending on how much I can get out of the 82 then wheel the shit out of it lol

 

its...ALIVE!

 

Fwiw the other weakness in the fzj80 front is the combination of hi pinion and links in reverse. I've seen a couple of HP80's R&P's break when you grab reverse hard because of the radius arms/links don't allow any axle wrap. Granted both were in fzj80's and one of the guys just manages to break doing nothing normally.

Do yourself a favor and don't setup the mounts on the crossmember. My crossmember is hard enough to get out with just the cases and trans as it is.

 

Ok, the parts are starting to show up for the 63 swap. I'm hoping to tackle the swap this weekend.

My next question is rear shock placement. Once I get the spring swap done I'll be able to get the travel numbers and decide on a shock. The question is, how high up do I go with the shock tower? Do I put it as high as I can fit and then run my travel numbers?

What pitfalls are there? I'm assuming the issues will be the shock hitting the frame or the tire at full stuff will be one issue.

What is the desired shock angle?

I am planning on bracing the shock tower to the bed with a bolted connection. That should help keep the towers from flexing.

 

You need to talk to eddy, sos concepts. He just did a shock hoop a couple weeks ago and now has great flex with just expo leafs and a shackle flip. He may be able to hook ya up.

 

Looks like you could just build your upper shock mount into the bed. You would be less material into it assuming your bed could handle it and it looks like it can. Just my opinion there.

 

I hadn't thought about doing it that way. The tensile capacity of the bed bolts is more than adequate to support the load. And the 2" square tube isn't going to go anywhere. The load from the shock will be on the cantilevered wing, but only four inches from the weld. Hmm... That might just make life easier.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the rear tire when it stuffs moves forward, correct? That's why I'm seeing custom shock hoops with the shock angled towards the cab. So that when the tire comes up the shock moves towards vertical. Is that correct?

 

no the tire moves back at full stuff but not more than an inch or tow. Think of it like this the tire will always move in the direction of the shackle under compression. If was you I would put the top of the shock at least 5" behind the center line of the axle if you are mounting it to the bed as high as you can get it.

 

5" I personally wouldn't do that I would mount them at 0 seeing how he has the room too then he will know he's getting 100% shock dampening but that's me. He's not going to have the up travel to move the axle that far during the upstroke so mounting straight up is a good option for him.

 

Yeah, you're right. Now that I think back it was the rear portion of my mud flaps that tore off first.

So why do all of the shock relocation kits have the shock forward of the axle?

Will having both shocks behind the rear axle affect the on road handling at all? I need to do some more reading.

 

Straight up is an option as well. I'm assuming the lower shock mount would be on top of the axle tube in that application, correct?