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Old 12-09-2012, 06:17 AM   #1042
I like to break shit!
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whats up bitches
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:31 AM   #1043
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Originally Posted by 45acp View Post
This thread is giving me so many bad ideas. Been reading it for most of the afternoon/evening. Everything about this build is incredible.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...g-unbro-d.html

First order of business... buy a DD.
Yeah....


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Yeah Matt's truck is the epitome of clean work. DD's are cheap! Finance a little Honda for 3k or even less. My Honda gets 40mpg and cost 2800 bucks...cost nothing after it got rear ended and totaled I still drive the car though.
Got my 89 Celica for $950 cash. lol It's by no means a luxury ride, but it should get me where I need to go for the next 5 years....
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:17 AM   #1044
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Originally Posted by 45acp View Post
First order of business... buy a DD.
Just don't buy a Tacoma as a DD, you want to modify the hell out of it too along with your other truck.
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:42 AM   #1045
Paint me back in Wyoming again...
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Originally Posted by Redneck92 View Post
Just don't buy a Tacoma as a DD, you want to modify the hell out of it too along with your other truck.
That's later on down the road. Gotta have a truck to tow this one, right?
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:51 AM   #1046
Paint me back in Wyoming again...
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So with this whole 'SAS' deal, (other than funds ) I think my biggest hurdle is proper link setup/geometry. I can't seem to find any specific guidelines or rules to follow.

I've probably mentioned it before, but before I got this truck a couple years ago I had never even changed the oil or a tire on a car before. So I'm quite in the dark about a lot of this stuff, and links is something I don't want to f*&$ up on.

Any good, definitive resources out there? Or should someone in my position take some of the guesswork out and get a link kit like the ones from these guys...

http://www.4wheelunderground.com/index.html
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:59 AM   #1047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 45acp View Post
So with this whole 'SAS' deal, (other than funds ) I think my biggest hurdle is proper link setup/geometry. I can't seem to find any specific guidelines or rules to follow.

I've probably mentioned it before, but before I got this truck a couple years ago I had never even changed the oil or a tire on a car before. So I'm quite in the dark about a lot of this stuff, and links is something I don't want to f*&$ up on.

Any good, definitive resources out there? Or should someone in my position take some of the guesswork out and get a link kit like the ones from these guys...

http://www.4wheelunderground.com/index.html
I know on pirate there is a good 3 and 4 link calculator. Mainly just look to see why others have done, also searching key terms like roll axis, anti squat and all the other fun stuff will give you an idea of what you need. You can play around on a 3/4 link calc until you get your numbers where they need to be.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:02 AM   #1048
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Originally Posted by 45acp View Post
That's later on down the road. Gotta have a truck to tow this one, right?
True, my runner is going to far exceed the tow rating on the taco. Good thing my gf's dad has a 3500 gas Chevy should be enough to pull it and another truck.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:14 AM   #1049
It's about to get real!!!
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It's not a bad thing. You aren't like me at all, which is good! My last truck, I modified it a little when it was IFS but didn't really wheel it that much. Then I swapped it and wheeled a lot more.

My point was find the axles you want to run at the width you want and fine tune after it's built. If you think too much, you'll never do. Tire size, suspension geometry, wheel width/backspacing is different for EVERY truck. It's just one of those things you jump into head first and learn as you go along
I already have my axle waiting for money to be dumped into them..
Front is a dana 60 drivers drop HP off of a 91 F350. and the rear is a Corp 14 bolt off of a 81 3500 chev.

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Originally Posted by Redneck92 View Post
True, my runner is going to far exceed the tow rating on the taco. Good thing my gf's dad has a 3500 gas Chevy should be enough to pull it and another truck.
gonna see if i can't get mine set up well enough to be able to still do 65 down the freeway with it and the hell with a tow rig. not worried about breaking after the SAS
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:23 AM   #1050
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With the axles you have I wouldn't worry about breaking much at all. If built right you should be able to drive anywhere, beat the hell out it and come home without any problems. Also I don't think anybody's off the shelf link kit is going to achieve what you want/need.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:36 AM   #1051
WUT?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rctoy View Post
I already have my axle waiting for money to be dumped into them..
Front is a dana 60 drivers drop HP off of a 91 F350. and the rear is a Corp 14 bolt off of a 81 3500 chev.
Nice sounds pretty similar to what I've got now. Only downside is I wish someone made 5.89 gears for the 14 bolt. That would allow those of us with automatics to run bigger tires than 37's comfortably.
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:29 PM   #1052
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Originally Posted by thegame View Post
It's not a bad thing. You aren't like me at all, which is good! My last truck, I modified it a little when it was IFS but didn't really wheel it that much. Then I swapped it and wheeled a lot more.

My point was find the axles you want to run at the width you want and fine tune after it's built. If you think too much, you'll never do. Tire size, suspension geometry, wheel width/backspacing is different for EVERY truck. It's just one of those things you jump into head first and learn as you go along
Yeah, man... My next project yota (probably a 5 lug 2nd gen or 3rd gen with a blown engine or that was in wreck or something...) will be chopped immeadiately. Dream is to find some Unimog 404s, link it, power it all with chevy, and make it streetable.... but we'll see. LOL

My whole philosophy has been and will be to just jump in and learn as you go... Research first of course... but there will always be something unexpected.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 45acp View Post
So with this whole 'SAS' deal, (other than funds ) I think my biggest hurdle is proper link setup/geometry. I can't seem to find any specific guidelines or rules to follow.

I've probably mentioned it before, but before I got this truck a couple years ago I had never even changed the oil or a tire on a car before. So I'm quite in the dark about a lot of this stuff, and links is something I don't want to f*&$ up on.

Any good, definitive resources out there? Or should someone in my position take some of the guesswork out and get a link kit like the ones from these guys...

http://www.4wheelunderground.com/index.html
Dude, same with me... Well..... I could switch out the spare if you gave me 45 min, but forget anything else.

The link Wyatt posted for me a while back is very informtional... http://www.rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?t=272 As far as the down-n-dirty of link geometry and it's effect on everything, I'm still fuzzy on that too... I've just been reading a lot of tech-saturated, linked builds on Pirate, and that's been helping... And yeah, they've got the calculators for that stuff and I think there are computer programs out there as well... Don't think they're cheap though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegame View Post
Nice sounds pretty similar to what I've got now. Only downside is I wish someone made 5.89 gears for the 14 bolt. That would allow those of us with automatics to run bigger tires than 37's comfortably.
Personally (no real world experience in this) I think 40s would be fine with 5.38s.... 5.89s would be sweet (and then you could go to 42s or 44s ) but as far as ratios go with the 5.38s, 37s would bring it slightly deeper than stock and 40s would be about 100rpm lower than stock at highway speeds....(compareable to 4.10s and 265/70R16s) Me thinks off-road would be fine with crawlbox, and highway would be perfect.... I know you'd guzzle gas like crazy and power would be lacking in the city though... 40s have just a bit more rotational mass to them than 31s! Plus the truck would just be heavier overall... so you want to be geared a bit lower... but still.

Supercharger could help.
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:01 PM   #1053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegame View Post
Nice sounds pretty similar to what I've got now. Only downside is I wish someone made 5.89 gears for the 14 bolt. That would allow those of us with automatics to run bigger tires than 37's comfortably.
yup im auto and plan on 5.38 gears with a atles 4 speed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneck92 View Post
With the axles you have I wouldn't worry about breaking much at all. If built right you should be able to drive anywhere, beat the hell out it and come home without any problems. Also I don't think anybody's off the shelf link kit is going to achieve what you want/need.
allready have my own link kit designed. Ive don't all sorts of fab work before so ill be good

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Originally Posted by Slodgetto View Post
Personally (no real world experience in this) I think 40s would be fine with 5.38s.... 5.89s would be sweet (and then you could go to 42s ) but as far as ratios go with the 5.38s, 37s would bring it slightly deeper than stock and 40s would be about 100rpm lower than stock at highway speeds.... Me thinks off-road would be fine with crawlbox, and highway would be perfect.... I know you'd guzzle gas like crazy and power would be lacking in the city though... 40s have just a bit more rotational mass to them than 31s! Plus the truck would just be heavier overall...

Supercharger could help....
LOL im already superchaged with full fuel and exhuast mods.. trucks putting down 280 horse at the wheels on 35's planning on running 44's full hydro steering and yeah the atles 4 speed will take care of all the off road stuff no problem

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oedt2PrO2Dg
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:17 PM   #1054
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Originally Posted by rctoy View Post
yup im auto and plan on 5.38 gears with a atles 4 speed.



allready have my own link kit designed. Ive don't all sorts of fab work before so ill be good



LOL im already superchaged with full fuel and exhuast mods.. trucks putting down 280 horse at the wheels on 35's planning on running 44's full hydro steering and yeah the atles 4 speed will take care of all the off road stuff no problem

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oedt2PrO2Dg
Nice, man. That's some good hp!

Going to link it front and rear? Coilovers? Have you decided on what size links/ends you gonna run yet? Did you use any computer programs to design your link kit? What are you going to do to build up your axles to handle the 44s? (That's probably about the limit for those axles, right?) And will your rig still be streetable?? I didn't think full hydro's were legal on the street...

Sorry for all the questions...
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:24 PM   #1055
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Built one tons should handle 44s, just not cheap. I don't have any exp with it but I have heard that is when you are at a 14 bolts limit. Nothing a lil 300M can't fix though.
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:32 PM   #1056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 45acp View Post
So with this whole 'SAS' deal, (other than funds ) I think my biggest hurdle is proper link setup/geometry. I can't seem to find any specific guidelines or rules to follow.

I've probably mentioned it before, but before I got this truck a couple years ago I had never even changed the oil or a tire on a car before. So I'm quite in the dark about a lot of this stuff, and links is something I don't want to f*&$ up on.

Any good, definitive resources out there? Or should someone in my position take some of the guesswork out and get a link kit like the ones from these guys...

http://www.4wheelunderground.com/index.html
I think you worry too much Jon
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:30 PM   #1057
WUT?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slodgetto View Post
Personally (no real world experience in this) I think 40s would be fine with 5.38s.... 5.89s would be sweet (and then you could go to 42s ) but as far as ratios go with the 5.38s, 37s would bring it slightly deeper than stock and 40s would be about 100rpm lower than stock at highway speeds....(compareable to 4.10s and 265/70R16s) Me thinks off-road would be fine with crawlbox, and highway would be perfect.... I know you'd guzzle gas like crazy and power would be lacking in the city though... 40s have just a bit more rotational mass to them than 31s! Plus the truck would just be heavier overall... so you want to be geared a bit lower... but still.

Supercharger could help.
I'm glad you did the math I'm in Calculus 2 right now and can't do simple math anymore Of course 40's and 5.38's would be fine! LOL, dammit. Now I want to find some 40" MT/R's and H2 wheels...
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:51 PM   #1058
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Originally Posted by thegame View Post
I'm glad you did the math I'm in Calculus 2 right now and can't do simple math anymore Of course 40's and 5.38's would be fine! LOL, dammit. Now I want to find some 40" MT/R's and H2 wheels...
I can't remember what my truck was like when it was stock, but I can tell you with the 2.7l auto 5.38's and 37"s suck for get up and go. It doesn't hold very well at high speeds either. Only thing good is it crawls better.
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:23 PM   #1059
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Originally Posted by thegame View Post
I'm glad you did the math I'm in Calculus 2 right now and can't do simple math anymore Of course 40's and 5.38's would be fine! LOL, dammit. Now I want to find some 40" MT/R's and H2 wheels...
Just wait till calc 3, it is an utter bitch.

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Originally Posted by Supra TT View Post
I can't remember what my truck was like when it was stock, but I can tell you with the 2.7l auto 5.38's and 37"s suck for get up and go. It doesn't hold very well at high speeds either. Only thing good is it crawls better.
This doesn't make me feel good, I have a 22re 5spd and will run 5.38s. Hopefully one day it'll get a 6.0 swap, shouldn't have to worry about power then.
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