Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

That's what I was thinking. I was planning on going to the Moab meet, but that's not going to be happening now so figured I could take my time and save up for ARBs.

 

I ran a full time locker for 4 years in the back.. Still didn't have any funny tire wear.. no did it chirp all the time. Yeah it's gunna spin a little, rotate your tires often and forget about it. You shouldn't need 4wd on the road anyway, so if you get a full time locker in front, big whoop. But it's nice to be able to unlock it on the trail of course.. If you want it unlocked.. Unlock a hub

 

I like the selectable locker in the back and lunchbox/full time locker in the front. Like Supra TT said, worst case unlock the front. Then you could have a 2wd Low gear.

 

hmmm, why not the other way around? Just curious why you say this.

 

Just front experience. I can unlock the rear when on the road and have it free. When out wheeling you can leave the front unlocked/in 4lo/with rear locked, then if you get in a bind you can just lock the front hubs and have all four tires pulling.

 

That makes sense and all, but wouldnt that be a bit of a pain? To get out and unlock the hubs all the time? And only have 2 wheel drive when you dont want the front locked? I would honestly rather save up a couple hundred more dollars and be able to press a button to turn the locker on and off.

 

Say I regear now and buy a locker at a later point. Would I have to buy a whole new ring, pinion, etc all over again when I finally installed a locker or is the locker simply installed in place of other parts?

 

the ring gear and pinon will be re used when you get your locker.

 

Cool, does it have to be retimed?

How are the lockrights? Strong? Reliable? Would I run into problems using it with a DD? I really want the ARBs but DAMN 3x the price...

 

re timed? you put your existing ring gear back onto your new locker. when you assemble the whole thing, you will have to make sure the pattern is good. things will change with new parts.

 

Yeah re timed... I heard that was basically the one big challenge with trying to regear by yourself.

 

i think by re timed they mean having the clearences within spec, and having a good pattern. like i said things wi move so you will need the correct measuring tools and a service manual to get everything right. you need to know how to do it, or you could destroy the whole carrier.

 

i have a locrite in the rear arb in the front and drive the taco almost daily

 

Was that a choice or money thing? I mean would you rather have an ARB front and rear...seems like a locrite an non selectable lockers in general would get less gas mileage too and eat ur tires faster...I jus plan on savin the money for arbs, things never happen over night so if I wait might as well wait a little longer for something a little better right?

 

Idle setup (to me) would be selectable front and rear... but things don't always workout like that. It all comes down to personal preference. I personally like the selectable rear and lunchbox front, not saying it is any better than another setup, just what I like. Hell, I have a friend who has a 82 on 36's that he daily drive and it is welded front and rear... it eats his rear tire like a S.O.B., but gets the job done off-road

 

money and use

the loc rite has no ill effects on the road for me unless im really getting on the gas, then it might chirp in a turn, no funny tire wear and id much rather have control of the use of my front locker, especially on tight trails

 

This is true, the lunchbox can get a lil tough on the tight trails. You can play with them to get them to unlock long enough to make turning easier... e-lockers/ARB front and rear would be my perfect setup but gotta have the $$$ to play

fireturk, I really hope you make it out to URE over Memorial Day. I want to see that thing do some work!

 

if i could id get the same set up as i have now (maybe a lower gear ratio)

it cost me 2k in parts for the gears and lockers, not including a compressor

 

Guess I'll play this one by ear and how much cash I have in my pockets when the time comes.


Anyway, when it comes to linked/coilover suspension, I seem to hear a lot about 'math' and link geometry... is there a lot more to it than it looks? Is there some kind of computer program you have to use to calculate how all the parts or gonna move/articulate or something? Do you just slap the shit on and see what works best and adjust?
Just a little confused

 

Yea, good thing they made PVC pipeing, otherwise we'd be lost on link set-ups lol