Originally Posted by xodeuce
Yeah, will do. I need to clean it up a bit. I'm kinda picky like that, but once I get all the dirt out of it I'll snap some pics.
Oh Bill.... (or anyone else really)
You know much about A/C? Thing had R12 in it back in 1992, then it got recharged with Freeze 12 in 2009, and now it's not cooling.
My troubleshooting was going to start with the compressor, make sure the electronic clutch is starting it up, it's turning, then check the level (not sure how to do this...), if compressor working, and level low, top off with Freeze 12. That about right?
First things, make sure the compressor is engaging. If not, check the clutch coil system to be sure it is not electrical. Yes, a set of R-12 gauges will be what you need to verify correct state of charge, and to verify the compressor is pumping.
Originally Posted by TacoFMS
you could prob go to a ac maintenance shop or possibly even if you had a friend that did hvac work and use their recovery system and have them pull it out and then just pull a vaccum on the system. this is also a pretty good way to check for leaks. if it holds a vacuum on the system on your way home then you prob dont have any leaks, at least not major ones.
you would however most likely have to change the expansion valve and possibly the drier out to switch refrigerants as they will have different boiling points so require diff amounts of opening in the expansion valve. you could probably use the existing coils in the truck, just may not cool as well or efficiently?? not sure about what the required ratio difference is on coils between the two refrigerants and i dont really know where my books are right off hand.
As to the bold text, plenty of systems can hold in a light 28inch vacuum. It is when you ramp the pressures up to the 250psi or up mark that the real leaks show up.
If doing a R134a conversion it is recommended that you replace the receiver/drier and orifice/expansion valve. No need to replace the condensor or the evap core. They will work fine. There is a very minor difference in performance when changing over. By slight I mean usually no more than a 4 or 5 percent pressure difference, so you would only REALLY notice a difference on really hot and humid days.
Originally Posted by jspadaro
AC work at a shop IS butt rape. I'd go without AC before paying. I ended up replacing my compressor, expansion valve, evaporator core, and receiver/drier. Total cost including a good set of gauges and a pump was about $400. The expansion valve alone at a shop would have been at least that, and now I have $170 worth of equipment for the next time.
They perpetuate the myth that AC is some magic voodoo so that they can bend you over for getting it fixed.
To refill, you must vacuum it first, otherwise A) you don't know if you still have leaks and B) you don't get moisture out of the lines.
I disagree. This is a VERY difficult business to make a profit in.
Was in a bad place when I first wrote the above. Sorry. I do get defensive when it comes to my job.