Upper A Arms - Need measurements

So I have been in the middle of fixing some b.s. in the life and now have some time to take care of things. can anyone measure their upper arms for me? I measured mine and the fronts (toward the front bumper) came out to 10.5" long - from eye to ball joint center, and the rears came out to about 11.5" long (same). Not sure if this is correct either - distance between bushing is about 12.75"/13.0" ?? Did a quick measurement in a parking garage ... didn't have space to do any real measuring

does this sound about right to anyone? Anyone that has access to upper arms for a 2nd gen please to verify for me if possible. thank you.

 

I'm not exactly sure what you're asking for... hopefully the photo below helps. Are you thinking that someone modified your A-arms? The arm measured below has an "R" on it, I'm guessing that means it's the passenger side (Right)? One arm is longer than the other... I'm measuring the longer arm in the photo.

 

lol nah, nothing like that. I'm building some upper arms, need the measurements of the arms so that i can add in what ever extra inches I need to fix my camber. I also measured the pass side of mine too. The front arm sleeve (what they call it) is toward the front bumper, and the rear is toward the cab. As far as I know it's usually different sizes (like the front is one inch shorter or so from the rear), but need to make sure. I'm not that good with the small increments, I'm more of a whole inch and the semi small increments like 0.5" and so on.

and then I'll post pictures on how I got my drop (as well as fixing the camber - been seeing weird stories here and there about DJM arms ... not good - felt I should just make my own).

 

I was looking into doing the same to help bring my camber a lil better but mainly to help give clearance for my control arm to stop touching my coil it makes a horrible creek when it wacks it

I'll be following this thread!

 

keeping updated - I found places to get the parts from, hopefully with this next paycheck I can start ordering in some of the main parts and get to the others another time.

From the looks of the picture provided by Hot Taco - one arm/rod w/e they call it (will find out .. eventually lol) comes out to 10.75" (just round to nearest inch which is 11" long). Need to get the other side (the shorter arm/rod w/e length) and I will be set on what sizes to get (have to compensate for the extra inch(s) needed from my drop for total length needed - from the research, you can get about 3.5" of adjustment space from these).

I know you can get the middle rods at any length, they do this kind of thing with trailing arms/panhard bars/etc. on muscle cars and they have v8's and above in them, so I am assuming that v4 is NOTHING to these.

 

Is this the other measurement you're looking for? (Same arm, shorter side)

 

PERFECT!!!!!

from here, you see where the ball joint center is and the "eye" of the bushing is (you get an idea where it is and what # it lines up to - which is 9" on the dot). AND WOW!!! I WAS WAYYYY OFF #smh

so one side is 9" long and the other should be 10" long (just rounding off really). Adding in my drop which is 28 3/8" (from 30 7/8" when I started), 2" and then some ... this is where I hate math lol.

9" length + 2" drop = 11" sleeves for one side
10" length + 2" drop = 12" sleeves for other side

"should" compensate for the drop, and the 3.5" room for adjustment will take care of the camber (which I measured for as well - taped a string with a nickle on it onto the fender and measured how far the rims is from that - rears came out to not even an inch. the front is about 2.25" away (factoring in about 1" for offset - I get 1.25" of camber) ... A LOT of weird measuring huh (wish I had bought an angle finder when I had the chance).

I pray this isn't confusing anyone

BIG UPS TO HOT TACO for taking the time to measure and take shots. MUCH APPRECIATED !!

 

sent out an order right now for the clevis and ball joint collar (VERY important pieces - going with a small screw in ball joint application). Next in line will be the bars and then heim joints (not sure what size the OE bolts for the arms are yet) also need spacers.

EXCITED!!!!! will post shots of parts when they come in.

 

What did you combine to achieve 2.25" drop up front
Alignment shouldn't be thrown off too far I believe
But arms would help for sure if that off

 

I just don't see how ur camber can be so far off for such a small drop I know you factored in the fact the x runner coil dropped u somewhat but u pretty much have a x runner front suspension now with them coils and struts
Adding the tundra racing kit I got friends with same kit as you are running without much issue

Which is the reason why I asked what else u combined but I guess u didn't combine anything else
Raise the UCA higher to compensate

That's my solution
Do what pleases you

 

imo I would just get adjustable uca's. reason is that you can get 3" or so to adjust for camber and with the camber your getting ... (can't be as bad as mine), you will be able to adjust/correct it like nothing. What is happening up top is that since the arm is short, it's pulling the top of the rim inward. what you want to do is push the top of the rim outward enough so that it matches the bottom - ergo MY reason for using adjustable uca's. I have about 2 degrees or so of neg camber on mine from the drop that I did, so all I need to do is push the top out some that it matches with the rears.

 

If love to have em I just don't got the skills to create em
I don't know how to weld and if I were to learn my first thing want be to create adjustabes and I've talk to a few pplocal shops and they know it's possible just I don't feel like paying half my body to get it done which is why I'm leaning towards the relocating it higher sat least it will level the UCA out instead if my steep ass angle I currently have giving me clearance from the coil and correcting the camber at the same time in some point in time I'd love to have adjustabes

 

Maybe the truck is just gay like the owner. Yah I think that's it

 

Oh and since ur asking for advice and talking shit again isn't it weird how brendo has made his drop work without issues (tremendously lower then yours) and you can't even manage to put in an exhaust system or get a 2 inch drop to work. Maybe its time to find a new hobby or stick to changing oil. Supposably u can manage that. But time will tell lol

 

here is a possible option michigan metal makes, i know its on a bagged truck but it might work on a non bagged ive dealt with them on two previous trucks and he might could make them shorter or longer. this is not my truck or my work just a pic i had

 

he sales them adjustable or non adjustable and he can powdercoat them any color. Sorry if I sound like a salesman its just he has always been very helpful. Don't qoute me but I think adjustable was 599 and non was 499

 

Got an update on my arms. As of now i have the arms, just waiting on the balljoints. The ones i got eere defective, so i had to return them and have them on back order.

 

How they look

 

ho dammm