Air Suspension Basics

Figured I would start this up. Not sure if it will help anyone but hope it does. Fee free to add in w/e info you have on air suspension as well as experiences. Other than that happy baggin.

Basics
Air suspension in general is lifting/lowering of a vehicle with the aid of air pressure. DO NOT mistaken it to be like hydraulics, in a way it is, but in another way it is COMPLETELY different. Hydraulics work with pressures of about/exceeding 1k psi plus normally. With air suspension, at most the max psi rating that I have seen pushed is around 400 or so psi. via nitrogen tank. So don't think you can do a standing three wheel (with imports, commonly mistaken for a standing 3 wheel is the dog leg, although a 3 wheel it's the opposite of standing the front v. the rear, hence the name "dog leg" - looks like a dog taking a piss), although you can achieve this, A LOT of fab work will need to be done, especially if you have a truck and you will need to make sure your pressure rating is around/exceeding 400 psi.

System components:
Everyone wants the ability to control their system at their leisure, how to do this? Well you have several components to do so. Options range from budget to show case BUT keep in mind it's all up to you/installer on how to go about getting the system installed as well as what you will be using.

** Questions to ask yourself - and I mean SERIOUSLY ask yourself **

- What's my budget?

- What do I need this system for (REALISTICALLY what do you need out of the system)?

- What do "I" want from the system (what do you want the system to "do" for you)?

Once you get these questions answered, you can fine tune your system. You will b able to route out all the stuff you don't need and get what you don't need. Kits are generalized pertaining to simple hauler system to show case BUT you will need to find out what YOU want from the system before you start looking/ordering parts.

Parts List:

Air Supplier:
- 12v electric
- Engine Driven (EDC)
- Nitrogen/scuba air tank
- Shreder valve
- Pressure switch (MUST HAVE - pressure ratings will vary)

12v
when using 12v air compressors, you MUST take into account on how big your air tank is, how much pressure you are running, and the duty cycle of the compressor. The reason for this is because you DO NOT want to wait forever for the tank to fill, nor do you want to kill the compressor before you could even break it in! Many people complain about the fill time, BUT it's mainly due to the size of their tank and psi they are running. What is killing your compressor is the "volume" that it MUST fill before it reaches it's "off" psi setting. The longer you have a 12v compressor on, the shorter it's life span will be (the internals start to wear faster and you will have to rebuild the cylinder wall and piston at most; this IS IF the compressor you are using has parts available). Then there's the noise, although there are isolators usually provided, I mainly use poly urethane bushings (the ones you can get for sway bars @ Pep Boys) to help keep the vibrations to a min. regardless, there will be vibrations from the piston pumping air into the tank.

a good way to help you find out the fill time on a tank:
http://www.landisusa.com/calculator.html

EDC
engine driven compressors come in two main forms. York 210/209 and Sanden 5 or 7. These compressors are really for the a/c but are able to pump out the cfm that is needed to fill an air tank to a desired pressure (the rule of running a compressor too long still applies). There is online lists of vehicles that have the compressors OE, but you will need to Google that.

York 210
http://www.wt4x4.net/tech/images/bronco_air/york_lg.jpg

York 209
http://www.s10forum.com/classifieds/data/14/new_truck_025.jpg

Sanden SD5
http://www.bernsteinengineering.co.uk/images/030252SD5_000.jpg

Sanden SD7
http://cdn2.sulitstatic.com/images/...707ef767934404422fe006b4315f2ce111ffe2995.jpg

The tricky part about using this kind of compressor in a system is that you MUST make sure the clutch wheel on these line up and that there is ROOM for said compressor you are planning to use. The other is the fittings. I don't know why but York fittings tend to get all calcium like and such. It just goes that way. You can get them at a place called "Kilby Ent." http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/
although they mainly have York 210 fittings (they don't seem to have the 209 fittings - there IS a mod for the 209 though, BUT gotta be pro to know how to do it lol). They specialize in Off Road air command stuff but you can use it for air suspension too. As for the fittings for the Sanden. I used to get them from a place called "Docs Blocks" but not sure what happened to them. The MIP on the Sanden I think is 5/8", but not sure what the pitch is.

Now with the York, you don't need what is called an "oiler". This just helps cycle oil through the compressor so that is doesn't seize. The York you can drop in some oil and let it cycle through. With the Sanden, you will need to have an oiler and way to have it cycle back through the compressor or it will seize. Max pressure is about 300 psi on both that I have ever taken them too. The York is fairly large, even the 209. It's more for engine bays that are like old Chevy's and such. Sandens are able ti fit into tight places nicely, but just make sure you are able to get in that oiler and return feature.

Nitrogen/scuba tank:
WHAT? yeah you can use this to charge your system. People that use this though are mainly hoppers or street rides that are more demanding. Both tanks are able to reach psi levels of 1K or above, so the refill time is minimal given that you don't go ape shit on the switch. Installing such items requires

Nitrogen - MUST have a regulator to control air flow
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71u3W5MOBXL._SL1500_.jpg

Scuba - MUST have either a DIN valve or a Yoke valve regulator to control air flow
Yoke valve (rare in US)
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Scuba-DIN-to-YOKE-Regulator-Diving-Tank-Adapter-Dust-Cap-Dive-Valve-Converter-/00/s/MTYwMFgxNjAw/z/rcUAAOxy9tpR7urv/$(KGrHqQOKo8FHYl6-E7rBR7urukIuw~~60_35.JPG

DIN valve (common in US)
http://www.leisurepro.com/Image/Product/Full/XSSPVN.jpg

with the regulator you are also able to connect an air line to the main tank, while regulating how much psi you want to flow through to the main tank. What sucks, atm there isn't much you can do about the operating of this system - you will have to manually open the main tank valve each time you want to use/not use the system.

Shreder valve:
this is pretty much a back up, but it can also be used to put air into the system. Keep in mind that you want to get a "check valve" due to the back pressure that will build up.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/images/D/SAW-50001-094-1-400.jpg

Pressure switch:
this keeps the pressure in the tank. there are various types of pressure switches, but ALL have an "on" and "off" pressure which tells the compressors to "start" or "stop" pumping air into the tank.

Fixed Switch
http://image.8-lug.com/f/tech/0703_..._07+air_compressor_basics+pressure_switch.jpg
with these, it is what it is. Say it has a 125 "on" and 145 "off" setting, your max psi is 145 (which it tells the comp to stop once it reached it) and 125 - which means once this pressure is read from the switch, it will tell the compressor to turn on regardless if you like it or not.

Adjustable Switch
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/505794426/air-compressor-Pressure-Switch.jpg
not all are like this but you kind of get the idea. with these, your are able to adjust the "final" pressure setting. Usually these are fixed at a certain "on" psi. You are only able to adjust the "off" psi. Say you are at 145 psi "off" and you want to go higher, simply adjust and you can get more.
** KEEP IN MIND THAT THE ADJUSTABLE SWITCHES ALSO HAVE A MAX "OFF" SETTING, SO BASICALLY IF YOUR MAX "OFF" IS @ 200 PSI, THAT'S IT **

 

going to post more tomorrow, have to get back to work

 

thanks man

 

Air Control
being able to control where the air flow is going ... how do you do this? well there's actually several ways to go about this. You can go with the manual or the electric route. By that I mean even simpler than the paddle valves that are in the Air Lift/Firestone air helper kits.

Manual Valves
There's more than JUST the paddle switch. Although it's cheap and all in one in a sense, they wear out ans start to leak IF you have an "itchy" switch habit. For the most, a lot of hot rod builders use them just fine. But just this once, let us going even more simple than that, by "that" I mean ball valves. YES! the ones you see at your local hardware store and such. One of the extreme BUDGET ways to get control of your system. Who would do this? I have and many mini truckers. No problems at all - at first I used 3/8" with 1/2" airline. Swapped it out for all 1/2" and then 3/4" airline, later swapping the ball valves for 1/2" electric valves in my old Dakota.

**ALL VALVES HAVE THEIR MAX PRESSURE RATING, MAKE SURE YOU DO YOUR RESEARCH AND FIND THE MAX PRESSURE RATING BEFORE PURCHASING.**

Paddle type air valve (max psi around 145)
http://bagriders.com/modlab/product_images/r/417/paddle-valve-2__44841_std.jpg

*NOTE: there are two types of these paddle valves - one is manual and the other is electric.

Electric
http://www.airassisted.ca/osc/images/pro_man_electric_lg2.jpg

Manual (older models of this had plastic PTC's instead of the hose barbs)
http://www.universalairsuspension.com/store2/catalog/images/Paddle 2.jpg

another manual switch is from the old MIC (Master Image Customs) switch panel, a person is making them now
MIC switch (came in 1/4", 3/8" and I think 1/2") -
(max psi - unknown to me)
http://www.illusivefabrications.com...bums/illusive_vehicles/ranger/normal_mic2.JPG
http://streetsource1.blob.core.windows.net/photos/6451/402755_1000.jpg

person that is making them now (MIC discontinued these)
http://www.littlelarrys.net/

http://s425783753.initial-website.com/s/cc_images/cache_88856704.jpg?t=1345304886

ball valves (max psi - see item specs)
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...de_bola.jpg/250px-Seccion_valvula_de_bola.jpg

Electric valves
the most common is the 2 way valve. With this an assortment of configurations are possible, but you MUST ALWAYS have one for FILL and one for DUMP. Another is the 3 way spool type valve (I don't like this one much but it will work for you if your not at the switch all the time), this valve enables you dual control with just one valve, so you pretty much get 2 valves in one. Another is a manifold valve (at most it's a block that uses the 2 way valve method - basically 8 two way valves mashed up into one block).

List of air valve companies that have been in the business for a long time:

Asco
http://www.azproperformance.com/images/P/asco-valve.jpg

Air Lift
http://c1.hornblasters.com/products/VA-6A/airlift_3-8_valve_l.jpg

Danz
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41fRVHKSxmL.jpg

ODE
http://www.azproperformance.com/images/P/ode-valve.JPG

SMC
http://thorbros.com/files/SMC_3-8_Valve.jpg

Parker
http://image.minitruckinweb.com/f/10332271/0809mt_27_z+adjustable_suspension+parker_air_valve.jpg

Ride Pro (Air Ride Tech)
http://www.airide.com.au/images/air-valves-2.jpg?osCsid=bf8bd230d46f12fde9003e96fb9e72e2

Accu-Air (Slam Specialties)
http://www.vtkustoms.com/images/Img10.jpg

GC
http://store.gaugemagazine.com/ProductImages/gcvalves/gc250.jpg

2 way air valve
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/4-Pack-Danz-1-2-valve-air-ride-suspension-GC-SMC-/11/!BsPc4TgEWk~$(KGrHqEH-DkEvDwHEmPOBL3IzDH1pQ~~_35.JPG

3 way Spool air valve
http://www.stcvalve.com/SOLENOID/4V230.gif

Manifold air valve
Ride Tech (1/4" or 3/8" options)
http://image.sporttruck.com/f/17821...able_suspension_system+ridepro_air_valves.jpg

Asco (ONLY in 3/8")
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x407/cummlns/e209192f.jpg

Now how to control them ... wow ... where to start. lol. Going to leave this for tomorrow, I will also be covering types of suspension adjustments systems there are, it's NOT just "bags" anymore.

 

On to suspension adjustment. Now most call it bags, bagged, on air etc. There's a million ways to put it I guess BUT it's ALL just the same, what differentiates it all is the limitations as well as the vehicle it's going into. How so? Some vehicles like uni-bodies (not all, mainly import sedans/coupes/vans - the sporty SUV types vary due to suspension design/clearance) require a suspension combo like a strut bag/air cylinder in order to obtain adjust ability whereas on a framed vehicle (vehicle where the frame and body are able to separate) has somewhat more of a flexible option (will get into that later). Something that many people do not understand is the way the air springs are rated. Although there is a max psi rating, THAT is just a suggested pressure for the consumer/installer. ALL air springs are tested to a higher psi rating (this is to ensure quality, but more importantly functionality) than what they state the max psi is. Reason being is that when you do have air in the air spring, a bump/dip impact also creates pressure but it's more of a "burst" of pressure if you will. Like taking a quick slug and being able to brush it off (hoppers/street baggers use burst pressure to hop their vehicle to extremes like if you had hydraulics). So how do you gauge the actual pressure? Well air springs are built in several ways, banded/crimped and there's another but I can't remember. Some have internal bump stops (Slam Specialties) and some do not which can be a pain because everyone one LOVES riding low at one point or another lol.
On banded springs, it's more of just being able to lift the vehicle up and down and not hop it. Case in point, Air Lift Company used to promote their hopper bags (2b6/2b7 Series) which were banded long time ago before recreating the entire design due to the fact that the bag was coming apart (there have been MANY instances where the top plate has come right off, bolt bungs would pop out, etc. just problems - so they redesigned them to what is now the Domonator Series air spring - NOT to be confused with the AIM immitation called the DeNominator).

Example
Old 2B6 Air Lift banded style (still in use BUT with air struts and helper kits mainly).
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/AIR-58352_ml.jpg

NewDominator Series style
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/0/022/022-58343.jpg


Air spring companies to choose from

- Firestone
- Air Lift Company
- Slam Specialties
- Conti-tech
- Universal Air Suspension


Banded air spring
http://bagriders.com/modlab/product_images/m/311/Audi-Strut-close__83795_std.jpg

Crimped
http://www.truckspring.com/Images/A...bus-springs/Firestone-bus-air-spring-6910.gif

internal bump stop
http://www.airide.com.au/images/Copy of RS72-half-up.jpg

Different types of adjustment methods

- air springs; come in sleeve, single, dual, and triple convoluted forms. Most common is the sleeve, single and dual; triple is something that is left for the lifted as it doesn't help much when in a lowered vehicle.
** RULE OF THUMB when installing air springs, ALWAYS make sure there is about a "thumbs" distance away from the air spring and ANYTHING that will cause it to pop - i.e. metal, jaggy corners, bolts, etc. **

sleeve
http://www.truckshop.com/images/D/90007076.jpg

single
http://www.airassisted.ca/osc/images/F6869.jpg

double
http://www.suspensionconnection.com/images/items/800x700/firestone_convoluted_air_bags.gif

triple
http://www.4wdworld.com.au/user_media/gallery/1613.JPG

Different sizes of air springs

- compact sleeve, used in VERY small places and have a max weight lift of about 800 lb. (max psi about 100)
- 2500 lb, commonly used with spaces that allow for 6" in diameter
- 2600 lb, commonly used with spaces that allow for 7" in diameter
- 2800 lb, large air spring; commonly used in mini trucks/rwd vehicles (caddies/impalas/etc), about 8" diameter

 

Good reference guide.

 

Continuing off

Air springs broken down (convoluted air spring used in example)
1. Top mounting plate
*mounting bolt bung/bolt(s)
*air supply fitting bung (your choice, air line, ss line, etc.)
2. Banded collar crimp (depends on air spring brand)
3. Air spring bellow
4. Banded collar crimp (depends on air spring brand)
5. lower mounting plate
*mounting bolt bung/bolt(s)
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/data/500/medium/sgd.jpg

* the use of internal bump stops is used by only one company that I know of (Slam Specialties, air spring is on the right side)
http://www.tubularsuspensionsystems.com/images/L_009.jpg

Air sleeve - this particular spring folds into itself (see link)
http://www.truckspring.com/Images/Air Helper Spring/Firestone/7076.jpg

When installing air springs, it is ALWAYS rule of thumb to make sure the air spring you are using is installed appropriately in order to function as intended. This means that research your application, if it's something that is complicated RESEARCH BEFORE HAND, if it's just a bolt in type deal, I would still research (disappointed in DJM ... smh) becuase in this day in age, SHIT HAPPENS. What is a properly installed air spring? KEEP THEM FLOWING IN A/AS CLOSE TO LINEAR MOTION AS POSSIBLE. With sleeve springs, they can only work one way really. The spring was designed to fold within itself, so compression on this type of air spring is also an issue at times. With the convoluted springs it's not so much a problem. Although they are designed to lay plate to plate, when installed in the front of most rwd vehicles, the spring tends to be set at an angle when aired. This is not as much of a problem IF you know why and how to fix it. When some people say that an air spring is to lay flat on itself, that's correct, BUT when installed in the front of a rwd vehicle, one MUST make sure the angle to which the spring has been aired is NOT to the extreme or it will cause "ballooning" (Ballooning: reference to a convoluted air spring that has a protruding bubble on the side bellow, air spring bellow is oddly deformed when aired) and that is VERY bad.

going to post more later, have to get to a meeting.

 

Nice read! Can't wait to hear more.

I've always liked bags for various applications.

 

another way to deform your air spring is when you install them with cups or do not install them to where when the air spring is deflated, it DOES NOT fold in on itself.

4 link install - notice how the bottom mounting bracket is NOT aligned/centered to the pinion angle of the axle. this kind of install causes to top and bottom mounting plates of the air springs to offset, when collapsed, it looks similar to this.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/003184.jpg

another deformed air spring
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/ewsagad.jpg

Proper install
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/1999-chevrolet-s-10.jpg
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/sgadfs.jpg

The reason for NOT using cups to mount the air spring on the bottom is that the air spring is liable to fold into itself even more. This is VERY common with the front installs on American type vehicles. Since the air spring takes place of the spring, the pocket clearance needs to be compensated as well as the lower spring perch area on the lca. Also notice how when the air spring is aired, it looks as if the front is lifting at an angle but this is okay, you can offset the upper cups/mounting holes to accommodate for the angle, but for the front, you can only go so far (ergo, AS CLOSE TO LINEAR as possible)

Plated lca
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/l5.jpg

Cupped lca
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/9feb08008.jpg

Bag/cup reference
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/6454_112409164150_516269150_2305601_5212916_n.jpg

 

3 Wheel Stances

Standing
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/14uey37.jpg
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/data/500/30830440001_large.jpg

Dog Leg
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/Image0441.jpg
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/...1_z_2009_forbidden_fantasy_show_and_shine.jpg

Standing a 3 IS possible with air, but ... things like this/similar/or more will need to be done, and you will need to be using a bottle (Scuba/Nitrogen tank for a continuous flow of 400 psi or more). Reinforcements to the cylinder will also need to be done (there has been an instance where one of the cylinders burst from immense pressure; although this is an old technique, it has been beefed up with nitrogen/scuba tank pressures ... these cylinders are not really reliable with very high pressures).

air cylinders (no less than I think 14" so you can get a decent looking standing three wheel).
http://i331.photobucket.com/albums/l457/paulepaul70/0702_lrmp_02_zrs_hydraulics_shoptwi.jpg
http://www.rshydraulics.com/AirLockUps/LowriderArticle/Article_Page2_640.jpg

With truck it's A LOT easier to get big lock ups in the rear as well as standing threes. How so?
http://i33.tinypic.com/2djbhw3.jpg
by moving the air spring position closer to the pivoting point on your link system (will be explained later in the 4 link building section ... I intend to write up lol).

 

Three wheeling in general is based on weight distribution.
Rolling three's are very easy because you are just tossing the vehicle around with inertia onto a side. Standing a 3 is based on high pressure, but them juiced rides be pulln them 3's on them d's fo sheez ... ... yeah but they have enough pressure to lift an engine AND what's in that rides ass! The need for more pressure is that your lifting the entire front and cab areas and some of the trunk. Dog legging is easy because the engine does all the work.

 

With that said onto air cylinders. Air cylinders are used all over, next time you go on a roller coaster, peep what's below. You will see a bunch of air cylinders going at it. What's inside is a piston with several O rings attached to keep a seal within the cylinder. There are two ports, one to push the piston down and one that allows you to push the piston up (used for dog leg, you will need an addition of two valves ea. corner) or exhaust (YOU MUST HAVE THIS PLUGGED WITH A "SILENCER" FITTING IF YOU CHOOSE TO NOT OPT FOR ADDITIONAL VALVES:

Fixed
http://www.ltcmc.com/attachment/view/470826.jpg

Adjustable
http://3rdstrikeperformance.com/images/ValveMuffler.jpg

Air cylinder cut away
http://www.automationdirect.com/images/overviews/compact_cylinder_graphic_400.jpg

http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/Img256.jpg
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/img12.jpg

There are all sorts of ways to install them, it all really depends on the installer as well as the vehicle. I don't like these as much though due to the wear and tear on them. A lot civic guys would use them, but the ride on them was fairly horrid. Bottoming/maxing out was equally worse. Maintenance ... you would have to check your o rings for wear, any sign of it and your seal is busted; which means your not going to be happy ... or moving until it's fixed. There are rebuild kits, but I am not sure if it's something to look into. More and more builder/imports are leaning to air strut bags (or air shocks, yes but your not thinking of it in a general sense, they all do the same thing, and pretty much have the same function). So the need for air cylinder isn't as it used to be. More or less the cheap route to having an adjustable air suspension system for importers or strut type suspension vehicles.

Air shock (typical type most are use to)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wc...age//34/large/18560005_mon_ma822_pri_larg.jpg
http://www.fordmuscle.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/3-480x802.jpg

Air strut/over shock
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wc...ge//49/large/10017639_not_as2139_pri_larg.jpg
http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/images/ALLOY-PR1-1_300.jpg
http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn...onz6/v/vspfiles/photos/75655-3.jpg?1363010325
http://images.gasgoo.com/MiMgIzU0Nj...art-shock-absorber-oe-81417226053-for-man.jpg

 

here go the import/strut bag kits that companies like
- Air Lift Company
- Universal Air Suspension
- Air Runner
- K Sport
and MANY others are coming out with (pretty much the same thing when it comes down to it, just the amount of work put into making the strut is what your really paying for).

Air Lift
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/AirLiftStruts.jpg

ACC
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/complete_kit11.jpg

Air Force (I think, it's off of a Miata)
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/MiataAirSuspension.jpg

Now this will prbably shock you BUT don't think that air cylinders have COMPLETELY vanished from the air suspension scene. Nope they have just been shortened as well as imo refined. But wait, don't call them air cylinders (pretty much an air cylinder though), they are called Air "Cups" and ARE PRICEY!!

Comparison to a strut bag (left) and air cup (right)
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/546212_400007290032478_240493479_n.jpg

Air Cup on it's own
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/1111_2.jpg

Air cup system
http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/uploads/26923/20120705_155328.jpg

 

I have yet to try these, but in general, they are supposed to just compensate for the height lost from the drop. Notice hoe the cup sits atop the coil spring from the coilover kit. Well you can get them to adjustable to I think 6" or something of the sort. Here is where it gets tricky though (meaning math and such):

Example:
Say you have a drop of about 3" that is WITH a coilover kit and you have cups that compensate for that 3" loss. Well if you want to go lower, there will be a problem:
Example -
3" total drop (original)
3" total lift from cups
= ride height when lifted
1" additional drop via coilover kit
= 4" total drop (new height)
now, in total your LIFT is ONLY 2" due to the additional 1" drop (and so on if you decide to keep going lower). I hope this makes sense and I'm not losing anyone.

The kit is VERY slow, but to some that doesn't matter. I have seen this system in more VIP type builds than I do with other builds. At most mini truckers LOVE to play, VIP builders LOVE to show and "all arounders" just LOVE to build (me ). You can speed it up though, BUT I wouldn't since the same principle as air cylinders is there (one thing about these cylinders/cups you DO NOT want to wear out the "o'rings". Rebuild kits are a bitch to find ... IF there are any for the type of cylinder/cup you purchased).

 

tomorrow I will go over air cups and struts more as well as get into fittings. Yes the dreaded fittings topic. Not so bad? lol, when you see the endless plumbing possibilities, you will know why.

 

Teflon
Reg (can get it at Home Depot/Lowes/etc. comes in white, pink)
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_EiXSzg_8b5w/TKeHL9xuc1I/AAAAAAAAA8Y/gm9jJt7itRo/s400/teflon_tape.jpg

Gas (a little thicker than reg. teflon - works well too)
http://img2.tradeee.com/photo/51602605/High_Density_Teflon_Tape_with_Gas_Pipe_Lines.jpg

How can someone put this on wrong? Well it has happened and will continue to happen (I know cause you would be surprised to how many don't know lol). So when putting on teflon, you HAVE to put it on with the end of the tape going in the direction in the "on" direction leaving the end of the tape facing in the direction AWAY from the "on" direction. Why? cause when you put the fitting "on" in the correct direction, the teflon will create a seal while it goes into the other fitting. IF you DO NOT put the teflon on in the correct direction, it will NOT seal correctly and you will end up having to redo the process all over again. Rule of thumb, DO NOT EVER GO APE SHIT when putting on fittings/bolts/etc. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO DO THAT TO CREATE A SEAL! You will know you fucked up when the teflon starts to look all gwak, basically like it's unwinding within the fitting. Also make sure to leave about 1/2 threads exposed so that it can "grab" onto the fitting.

LocTite 545 (widely used and VERY effective IF you put it on correctly)
http://westsidedelivers.com/images/products/LOCTITE/545.jpg

How you put this on, well it's not that hard. You basically put on some of the 545 on the threading, leaving around 1/2 threads exposed. With your finger, spread it around the threading so that when you plumb in the fitting, it will create a seal. Let dry over night (and then test the next day for leaks).


Testing for leaks
- Soap and water
- Windex

The main thing you are looking for when finding leaks is air bubbles. When you spray water & soap/windex over the system (yet SPRAY the system IF air leak(s) is unknown) and make sure to note the leak spots. At most, I usually go to fittings first - fittings from the tank/valves/etc. That is IF I can not narrow down the leak(s).

* more tomorrow

 

Thanks man. Could you also throw in a post on what fits/works in 2nd gen tacomas? Like the air lift kit you recommended the other week. Lowered tacomas needing different kits from lifted ones. Great thread. Maybe eventually a sticky?

 

will be getting into setups soon. need to brief people on basics to get an idea of functionality (that way later in thread when I use terminology, no one will be in the dark - maybe those who pop into the thread but for the most it will make sense if you start from beginning).

lol hope so

 

Welds
this is how they should look
http://251.org/gallery/var/albums/Shared/cycling/Eriksen/Build/EriksenWelds.jpg?m=1307757650

http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/data/500/2947854801c654e4b003in9.jpg

No no
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4089/5191154881_67fc69dc75.jpg

(on this one you don't want those little booger like dealies all over. just sloppy)
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8922&stc=1&d=1242320085

 

Very informative thread.

Thanks! Thinking about bagging my truck. Want it closer to the ground.