Figured I would start this up. Not sure if it will help anyone but hope it does. Fee free to add in w/e info you have on air suspension as well as experiences. Other than that happy baggin.
Air suspension in general is lifting/lowering of a vehicle with the aid of air pressure. DO NOT mistaken it to be like hydraulics, in a way it is, but in another way it is COMPLETELY different. Hydraulics work with pressures of about/exceeding 1k psi plus normally. With air suspension, at most the max psi rating that I have seen pushed is around 400 or so psi. via nitrogen tank. So don't think you can do a standing three wheel (with imports, commonly mistaken for a standing 3 wheel is the dog leg, although a 3 wheel it's the opposite of standing the front v. the rear, hence the name "dog leg" - looks like a dog taking a piss), although you can achieve this, A LOT of fab work will need to be done, especially if you have a truck and you will need to make sure your pressure rating is around/exceeding 400 psi.
Everyone wants the ability to control their system at their leisure, how to do this? Well you have several components to do so. Options range from budget to show case BUT keep in mind it's all up to you/installer on how to go about getting the system installed as well as what you will be using.
** Questions to ask yourself - and I mean SERIOUSLY ask yourself **
- What's my budget?
- What do I need this system for (REALISTICALLY what do you need out of the system)?
- What do "I" want from the system (what do you want the system to "do" for you)?
Once you get these questions answered, you can fine tune your system. You will b able to route out all the stuff you don't need and get what you don't need. Kits are generalized pertaining to simple hauler system to show case BUT you will need to find out what YOU want from the system before you start looking/ordering parts.
- 12v electric
- Engine Driven (EDC)
- Nitrogen/scuba air tank
- Shreder valve
- Pressure switch (MUST HAVE - pressure ratings will vary)
when using 12v air compressors, you MUST take into account on how big your air tank is, how much pressure you are running, and the duty cycle of the compressor. The reason for this is because you DO NOT want to wait forever for the tank to fill, nor do you want to kill the compressor before you could even break it in! Many people complain about the fill time, BUT it's mainly due to the size of their tank and psi they are running. What is killing your compressor is the "volume" that it MUST fill before it reaches it's "off" psi setting. The longer you have a 12v compressor on, the shorter it's life span will be (the internals start to wear faster and you will have to rebuild the cylinder wall and piston at most; this IS IF the compressor you are using has parts available). Then there's the noise, although there are isolators usually provided, I mainly use poly urethane bushings (the ones you can get for sway bars @ Pep Boys) to help keep the vibrations to a min. regardless, there will be vibrations from the piston pumping air into the tank.
a good way to help you find out the fill time on a tank:
engine driven compressors come in two main forms. York 210/209 and Sanden 5 or 7. These compressors are really for the a/c but are able to pump out the cfm that is needed to fill an air tank to a desired pressure (the rule of running a compressor too long still applies). There is online lists of vehicles that have the compressors OE, but you will need to Google that.
The tricky part about using this kind of compressor in a system is that you MUST make sure the clutch wheel on these line up and that there is ROOM for said compressor you are planning to use. The other is the fittings. I don't know why but York fittings tend to get all calcium like and such. It just goes that way. You can get them at a place called "Kilby Ent." http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/
although they mainly have York 210 fittings (they don't seem to have the 209 fittings - there IS a mod for the 209 though, BUT gotta be pro to know how to do it lol). They specialize in Off Road air command stuff but you can use it for air suspension too. As for the fittings for the Sanden. I used to get them from a place called "Docs Blocks" but not sure what happened to them. The MIP on the Sanden I think is 5/8", but not sure what the pitch is.
Now with the York, you don't need what is called an "oiler". This just helps cycle oil through the compressor so that is doesn't seize. The York you can drop in some oil and let it cycle through. With the Sanden, you will need to have an oiler and way to have it cycle back through the compressor or it will seize. Max pressure is about 300 psi on both that I have ever taken them too. The York is fairly large, even the 209. It's more for engine bays that are like old Chevy's and such. Sandens are able ti fit into tight places nicely, but just make sure you are able to get in that oiler and return feature.
WHAT? yeah you can use this to charge your system. People that use this though are mainly hoppers or street rides that are more demanding. Both tanks are able to reach psi levels of 1K or above, so the refill time is minimal given that you don't go ape shit on the switch. Installing such items requires
Nitrogen - MUST have a regulator to control air flow
Scuba - MUST have either a DIN valve or a Yoke valve regulator to control air flow
Yoke valve (rare in US)
DIN valve (common in US)
with the regulator you are also able to connect an air line to the main tank, while regulating how much psi you want to flow through to the main tank. What sucks, atm there isn't much you can do about the operating of this system - you will have to manually open the main tank valve each time you want to use/not use the system.
this is pretty much a back up, but it can also be used to put air into the system. Keep in mind that you want to get a "check valve" due to the back pressure that will build up.
this keeps the pressure in the tank. there are various types of pressure switches, but ALL have an "on" and "off" pressure which tells the compressors to "start" or "stop" pumping air into the tank.
with these, it is what it is. Say it has a 125 "on" and 145 "off" setting, your max psi is 145 (which it tells the comp to stop once it reached it) and 125 - which means once this pressure is read from the switch, it will tell the compressor to turn on regardless if you like it or not.
not all are like this but you kind of get the idea. with these, your are able to adjust the "final" pressure setting. Usually these are fixed at a certain "on" psi. You are only able to adjust the "off" psi. Say you are at 145 psi "off" and you want to go higher, simply adjust and you can get more.
** KEEP IN MIND THAT THE ADJUSTABLE SWITCHES ALSO HAVE A MAX "OFF" SETTING, SO BASICALLY IF YOUR MAX "OFF" IS @ 200 PSI, THAT'S IT **