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Carrier Bearing Drop Kit or Axle Shims or both...

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Old 08-30-2010, 02:39 PM   #1
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Carrier Bearing Drop Kit or Axle Shims or both...

I'm about to install a 3in OME and some UCA's. I'm planning on the front diff drop kit but can't decide if I should install either the carrier bearing drop kit or the axle shims or both or neither....? any thoughts?
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Old 08-30-2010, 02:50 PM   #2
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Are you lifting the back at all? Both axle shims and carrier bearing drop relate to the rear end. UCA's and OME coils are on your front end. If you're not lifting the back end then you are not changing any rear driveline angles and shouldn't need either. If you are lifting the back, start with neither and see if you have any vibrations. You may not even need them. If you do have vibs, the carrier bearing drop is much easier to install and probably a safer bet anyway than shims. I have both but I have a 1.5" AAL and I left the overload leaf in so I have about 2.5" lift in back.
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:49 AM   #3
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Yea I have the rear TSB and am adding another AAL.

Gonna start with nothing then see what I need if anything. Fingers crossed.
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:06 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilsonpj View Post
Yea I have the rear TSB and am adding another AAL.

Gonna start with nothing then see what I need if anything. Fingers crossed.
If you have a major vibration and you feel the vibrations almost immediately - as in - going 5mph or in low mph range - then I'd go with axle shims.

If you have a minor vibration that you feel in the higher mph range (40mph+ guessing), then I'd use carrier bearing drop.
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Old 09-07-2010, 12:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithB View Post
Just curious, what is the reasoning behind this?
Behind ... getting vibrations??
If you put a lift kit on any truck, you can cause the driveline to operate at an 'un-natural' angle which can cause 'driveline vibrations'.

To save damage to your u-joints (in the driveshaft), you need to get rid of the vibrations by using axle shims, or carrier bearing drop. Axle shims come in various sizes for various degrees of vibrations.

If you read this site - it'll explain it better:
http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html
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Old 09-10-2010, 06:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithB View Post
sorry, no. I meant why use shims if major vibs at low speeds and CBD for minor vibs at higher speeds? Don't they both accomplish the same thing (i.e. correct the driveline angle)?
I also want to know the reason behind that. I just got my lift installed, and I am experiencing vibrations at around 5mph and at 55-70mph.

The place I got my lift installed at said that he would not recommend the axle shims since they can break or bend. As a result, I told him not to install them. I am regretting that decision now. I can install the CB drop myself (seems easy enough) but the axle shims would require removing the u-bolts and dropping the axle. Something I do not know how to do, and do not want to attempt by myself.
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:40 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithB View Post
sorry, no. I meant why use shims if major vibs at low speeds and CBD for minor vibs at higher speeds? Don't they both accomplish the same thing (i.e. correct the driveline angle)?
Yes & No.
It depends on the driveline angle itself. A driveshaft operates at an optimal angle. If you put that driveshaft above or below the optimal angle - you'll get vibrations. For example: You can lift your truck 2" and your driveshaft will be out of the optimal operating angle by a few degress. If you lift your truck 4", that driveshaft is going to be out of its optimal angle by SEVERAL degrees.

Carrier bearings are not designed to be 'dropped'. Personally, I wouldn't drop it at all but I think the max you should drop it is by 1". That MIGHT be enough to correct a minor vibration (minor degree difference).

A minor vibe won't be felt at low speeds. A major vibe will be felt at low speeds.

Axle shims come in a variety of sizes to correct a variety of degrees & extremes. The smallest shims available are 2.5 degrees and they can go upwards of 20 degrees or higher. They pitch the differtial to match to the proper driveline angles.
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdheda View Post
I also want to know the reason behind that. I just got my lift installed, and I am experiencing vibrations at around 5mph and at 55-70mph.

The place I got my lift installed at said that he would not recommend the axle shims since they can break or bend. As a result, I told him not to install them. I am regretting that decision now. I can install the CB drop myself (seems easy enough) but the axle shims would require removing the u-bolts and dropping the axle. Something I do not know how to do, and do not want to attempt by myself.
You can try the carrier bearing drop - which I would not drop it anymore than 1" and see if that helps. If that doesn't help....then you will need shims. If you install shims, make sure you put the carrier bearing back to its original location.

Go back to your shop and tell them you want STEAL shims. Steal shims will not bend or break. Besides that.....shims that are installed properly will not bend or break. I had 2.5degree alluminum shims in my 96 tacoma for 5 years and I even offroaded pretty hard with it. No problems at all.
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Old 09-10-2010, 01:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janster View Post
You can try the carrier bearing drop - which I would not drop it anymore than 1" and see if that helps. If that doesn't help....then you will need shims. If you install shims, make sure you put the carrier bearing back to its original location.

Go back to your shop and tell them you want STEAL shims. Steal shims will not bend or break. Besides that.....shims that are installed properly will not bend or break. I had 2.5degree alluminum shims in my 96 tacoma for 5 years and I even offroaded pretty hard with it. No problems at all.
I have the OME CB drop, no idea how much they drop the CB. I will definitely try this before the shims, since it is a lot easier and I can do it myself.

I also have the shims from Toytec. I received a bent shim from them, which they replaced, but that was one of the reasons I sided with the installer and did not force him to install it.

Also the vibes that I experience at 5mph are tolerable. In fact I hardly notice them since they last for less than second when I am accelerating. Its the vibes at 55-70mph that are annoying, especially when I am on the freeway.
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Old 09-10-2010, 02:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdheda View Post
I have the OME CB drop, no idea how much they drop the CB. I will definitely try this before the shims, since it is a lot easier and I can do it myself.

I also have the shims from Toytec. I received a bent shim from them, which they replaced, but that was one of the reasons I sided with the installer and did not force him to install it.

Also the vibes that I experience at 5mph are tolerable. In fact I hardly notice them since they last for less than second when I am accelerating. Its the vibes at 55-70mph that are annoying, especially when I am on the freeway.
If you opt to drive around with vibrations for an extended period of time - will shorten the life of your u-joints.
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Old 09-15-2014, 08:27 PM   #13
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Any photos of what I needed to do please? I have no idea where is CV drop and what size shims I need. I have same issue with with vibration and today it was my unlucky day I lost my Carrier bearing dealer is now determining if they will cover or not
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Old 09-15-2014, 09:51 PM   #14
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Do you mean diff drop by CV drop? It apparently doesn't do much for our trucks and that's totally different than a CB (carrier bearing) drop. CVs are in the front. CBs are in the middle and address the rear axle. The OME carrier bearing drop just adds spacers to your CB to lower it. I had it installed when I installed the new leaf pack and are 99% vibe free.
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:16 PM   #16
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I installed a 4.5in lift (initially, it is still settling). The third member was going to put my driveline at an extreme angle so i decided to use 3 degree axle shims. Just be safe and get steel shims that use the leaf spring center pin to stay centered and secure. if you get the cheapo ones that rely on ubolt pressure alone you will get what you pay for (not in the good way).
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