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Will this setup meet my needs?

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Old 09-09-2010, 09:42 PM   #1
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Name: Steve
Joined: Aug 2010, #42529
Location: San Jose CA
Gender: Guy
Posts: 5,448
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Will this setup meet my needs?

I've read a bunch of threads on the forums and used the search extensively to come up with the following proposed list of modifications. Now before I start writing checks, I'm coming to the wisdom of the board to verify that what I've put together makes sense all together as a package, and will meet my needs.

So naturally, I need to tell you how I wheel, and what my goals are:

MY TRUCK: It's a 2011 Tacoma Std Cab 5 speed 4 banger. It's a pretty willing little engine though, I've been impressed.

USAGE: - I wheel on "pretty rough" trails to gain access to remote camping locations, mostly in the California Sierras. Given a choice, I'll usually turn off the "major" forest service road onto the rougher two track, to see where it goes. But naturally, in places like Death Valley, I drive a fair amount on some fairly heavily used, and therefore, straight-but-bigtime-washboarded roads.

I drive through the snow to get to skiiing, but I live and work in San Jose where it doesn't snow.

And naturally, as it's a sweet new truck with only 600 miles on the clock, you already know it's also my daily driver.

My last truck, a 94 F150, had a minimum ground clearance on paper similar to the Tacoma of roughly 9" But that was just under the pumpkins. Everywhere else under the axles, was 10 or 11 inches, and I still got the odd bump. Stock Tacoma is 9" everywhere under the entire front end. So even though the approach, breakover, and departure angles are better, I want to gain a few inches of clearance.

  1. Stay streetable. This is my daily driver.
  2. Get to 11 or 12" of trail clearance, with 10" under the rear diff.
  3. Improve traction/durability a lot vs. the stock 245/75R16 streets.
  4. Keep rake. I throw 400lbs of gear back there when I go camping. Also, an empty truck should sit higher in the back IMO. That's what looks "right" to me.
  5. Reasonably "taut" ride. But don't ride like a brick. I'm in my 40s and I don't drive terribly fast, but if I have to drive slower than I'd drive the stocker on rough washboard, as a result of my "off road" suspension riding too rough, then something's whacked!
  6. It's a new truck and I plan to be driving it for many years. I don't want my new suspension causing me big problems with premature component wear/failure. A little extra maintenance is OK. Replacing CV boots every 3 years is OK. Replacing CV boots every 6 months is NOT OK.
  7. Buy the least expensive setup that meets my needs. I don't want to overbuild a desert racer.
So, with those goals in mind, I've put together the following list of components. Will they meet my goals? Will they work well together?

Description                 P/N             Price
Sway Away 2" Coilover       52000-108-20    749 MSRP, 799 @Wheelers (free shipping)
Camburg "Ball Joint" UCA    CAM-310039      399 MSRP, 379 @Wheelers
Revtek Front Diff Drop Kit  REV RTDD2-KB    24 @Wheelers
Limit Strap needed??

Description                 P/N             Price
Wheelers 3 Leaf
  Progresive Add-A-Leaf     U6745           149 @ Wheelers
Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks                   158 @ Wheelers
1" lift block                               ?
U Hangers                                   ?
Axle Shims                                  ?

Description                                 Price
BFG AT TA KO 285/70R17                      1048 @
Mount & Balance                             60 @ (all 4 wheels)
MHT Fuel 17x8.5 wheels 4.5 backspacing      720
Mounting Nuts with Locking                  45 @
Overall, is this a good match of components to the way I use my truck?

Do I need brake line extensions and/or limit strap in the front? rear?

Will the SAWs in the front work fine with 5100s in the rear? Saws for the rear are 500 bucks a pair.

Will the SAWs work with the Camburg UCAs? Camburg only makes a 2.5" coilover, and the SAW 2" seemed more suited to my needs.
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