So naturally, I need to tell you how I wheel, and what my goals are:
MY TRUCK: It's a 2011 Tacoma Std Cab 5 speed 4 banger. It's a pretty willing little engine though, I've been impressed.
USAGE: - I wheel on "pretty rough" trails to gain access to remote camping locations, mostly in the California Sierras. Given a choice, I'll usually turn off the "major" forest service road onto the rougher two track, to see where it goes. But naturally, in places like Death Valley, I drive a fair amount on some fairly heavily used, and therefore, straight-but-bigtime-washboarded roads.
I drive through the snow to get to skiiing, but I live and work in San Jose where it doesn't snow.
And naturally, as it's a sweet new truck with only 600 miles on the clock, you already know it's also my daily driver.
My last truck, a 94 F150, had a minimum ground clearance on paper similar to the Tacoma of roughly 9" But that was just under the pumpkins. Everywhere else under the axles, was 10 or 11 inches, and I still got the odd bump. Stock Tacoma is 9" everywhere under the entire front end. So even though the approach, breakover, and departure angles are better, I want to gain a few inches of clearance.
- Stay streetable. This is my daily driver.
- Get to 11 or 12" of trail clearance, with 10" under the rear diff.
- Improve traction/durability a lot vs. the stock 245/75R16 streets.
- Keep rake. I throw 400lbs of gear back there when I go camping. Also, an empty truck should sit higher in the back IMO. That's what looks "right" to me.
- Reasonably "taut" ride. But don't ride like a brick. I'm in my 40s and I don't drive terribly fast, but if I have to drive slower than I'd drive the stocker on rough washboard, as a result of my "off road" suspension riding too rough, then something's whacked!
- It's a new truck and I plan to be driving it for many years. I don't want my new suspension causing me big problems with premature component wear/failure. A little extra maintenance is OK. Replacing CV boots every 3 years is OK. Replacing CV boots every 6 months is NOT OK.
- Buy the least expensive setup that meets my needs. I don't want to overbuild a desert racer.
FRONT: Description P/N Price Sway Away 2" Coilover 52000-108-20 749 MSRP, 799 @Wheelers (free shipping) Camburg "Ball Joint" UCA CAM-310039 399 MSRP, 379 @Wheelers Revtek Front Diff Drop Kit REV RTDD2-KB 24 @Wheelers Limit Strap needed?? REAR: Description P/N Price Wheelers 3 Leaf Progresive Add-A-Leaf U6745 149 @ Wheelers Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks 158 @ Wheelers 1" lift block ? U Hangers ? Axle Shims ? WHEELS & TIRES Description Price BFG AT TA KO 285/70R17 1048 @ Tires.com Mount & Balance 60 @ Tires.com (all 4 wheels) MHT Fuel 17x8.5 wheels 4.5 backspacing 720 Mounting Nuts with Locking 45 @ Tires.com
Do I need brake line extensions and/or limit strap in the front? rear?
Will the SAWs in the front work fine with 5100s in the rear? Saws for the rear are 500 bucks a pair.
Will the SAWs work with the Camburg UCAs? Camburg only makes a 2.5" coilover, and the SAW 2" seemed more suited to my needs.