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Old 03-25-2013, 02:21 PM   #501
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Originally Posted by DoorDing View Post
This should brighten your day:

2005 tacoma 2nd gen terminal frame rot rust cancer

An automotive shop probably won't perform any formal Non-destructive Testing, but they can tap and probe the frame to check for weak spots, and maybe poke a borescope into some semi-enclosed areas. If rust is a concern for you, there are several threads on rust preventative measures. I applied Fluid Film to my 2012, but it's too soon for me to report its effectiveness.
EEEEck! You are so very thoughtful, my friend. And of course I bookmarked it.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:22 PM   #502
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Originally Posted by YOTA LOVER View Post
If you're talking about a Gen 1 or 2 Tacoma you need to pull the struts off the truck and bring them down to a shop so they can safely compress the spring and add in your spacers.

My two cents: I originally used spacers to get lift on my 95 (when I didn't know any better) and regret using them. They compress the spring and stiffen up the front. That's cool if you want to stay on pavement, but it's not so cool off road when you need some more flex. I was much happier with adjustable coil-overs, which also allowed me to perfectly level the truck.
What coilovers did you get?
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:19 AM   #503
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Originally Posted by blackbrit View Post
What coilovers did you get?
I wish I could remember. I sold the truck in the fall of 2011 and picked up my new Taco. At the time money was an issue, so I think I went with some subsidiary company like BDS or Zone. If I were to do it again I would replace the UCAs and have gone with the All-Pro Bilstein Coil-Over. For the money it's a pretty solid way to get 2-3" of lift out of the IFS and maintain alignment.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:17 AM   #504
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Originally Posted by YOTA LOVER View Post
I wish I could remember. I sold the truck in the fall of 2011 and picked up my new Taco. At the time money was an issue, so I think I went with some subsidiary company like BDS or Zone. If I were to do it again I would replace the UCAs and have gone with the All-Pro Bilstein Coil-Over. For the money it's a pretty solid way to get 2-3" of lift out of the IFS and maintain alignment.
Thanks for trying to remember, and for the input re: what you'd do now.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:02 PM   #506
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98 Tacoma 2WD - 5 Lugger

Hey All..
Newbie to forum...Recently purchased this truck as my sons first new vehicle. Truck mechanically runs excellent but have had some issues with its suspension components. Aside from the broken leaf spring we had some issues with the front driver side strut rod breaking...twice...disconnecting it from the stabilizer bar. Cant figure out why its doing it??? Its obvious the front suspension has been modified but dont really know to what extent. Ive called around trying to find out who this set up was made by but have exhausted I believe all avenues.

Is anyone able to see from the pictures if this is a legit setup?
What is causing the strut rod to break?
Also, the suspension seems to only have about 2" of travel before the truck hits the spring bumper on the lower control arm...is that correct? Really? 2"???

Id rather keep as much of the existing components, so long as it doesnt pose a safety threat. Im sure my son would love a newer taller lift kit, but Im looking for something that simply works right without having to dump in a wad of cash.

Hopefully the pics are enough to tell...
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Old 05-29-2013, 06:23 AM   #507
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I can't tell exactly what the deal is from the pictures, but:

-Geometry from the LCAs and UCAs looks very wrong. They should be parallel.
-Those struts look like garbage (see the way the dirt and dust stick to them? They're leaking)
- Lower ball joint is toast

I have a feeling the LCA or UCA stock mounting location has been moved. Please take more pics.

My impression is that some jack-hole did a half-ass job trying to lower the truck, and its causing major issues.

I hope you didn't pay good money for it, because if the last owner hacked up the front end this bad I fear what you will find elsewhere. Sell it back to the guy who sold it to you, and go find a pre-runner that some old guy has had in his garage for the last 10 years. It'll have low mileage, and it won't be a giant POS.
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:49 PM   #508
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My plan lmk if I am on track...after reading all 26 pages of this thread and many others I am ready to place an order but want to do one last check with the knowledgable folks at TW before I do...lmk if I am missing anything...thanks everyone.

2013 DC TRD Sport 4x2 (I do not off road) just want lift for the look...do not want over kill...would like to keep nice ride

From DSM:

Bilstien 5100s all around $309 (set fronts at either 2.5 or 1.75)
Icon progressive AAL 1.5" $189

Use stock sport 17" rims...going to run P265/70/17s BFG rugged terrains

sound about right to accomplish decent lift? I wont need UCAs and I will not need to trim? right?

I wanted to go with wheel spacers and run 285/70/17 but I think I will need to trim right? so i need to stay with 265/70/17 if I do not want to trim?
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:13 PM   #509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StreetTaco4Me View Post
My plan lmk if I am on track...after reading all 26 pages of this thread and many others I am ready to place an order but want to do one last check with the knowledgable folks at TW before I do...lmk if I am missing anything...thanks everyone.

2013 DC TRD Sport 4x2 (I do not off road) just want lift for the look...do not want over kill...would like to keep nice ride

From DSM:

Bilstien 5100s all around $309 (set fronts at either 2.5 or 1.75)
Icon progressive AAL 1.5" $189

Use stock sport 17" rims...going to run P265/70/17s BFG rugged terrains

sound about right to accomplish decent lift? I wont need UCAs and I will not need to trim? right?

I wanted to go with wheel spacers and run 285/70/17 but I think I will need to trim right? so i need to stay with 265/70/17 if I do not want to trim?
I think you'll be happy tooling around on the BFGs and the lift you've picked out. The ride will be good, and the tire size will look good. The larger tire is just going to hurt your fuel economy.
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:45 PM   #510
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OK, I am the proud owner of my first "Real" truck. 2010 2WD TRD Sport, PreRunner, SR5. My first was a 2005 Chevy Avalanche "Southern Comfort", and then a 2008 Infiniti G37s (lowered etc)

I will only be using my Taco for daily driving and when I get relocated to Guam here in a couple months, going camping, and scuba diving. No real offloading.

I have read this thread and my main question, is for my purpose I seem to think a leveling kit is all I should need, maybe put a tiny bit bigger tires on her. Do leveling kits tend to have less other parts that need to be changed as well? (UCA...)

Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:02 AM   #511
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A leveling kit for a Tacoma usually consist of a top plate on the front springs and an add a leaf in the rear. Usually under $200. A better setup is to use Bilstein 5100 shocks up front set to 1.75 or 2.5 inches of lift. Talk to these people if you have any question.
http://downsouthmotorsports.com/
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Old 05-30-2013, 06:20 PM   #512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMW View Post
A leveling kit for a Tacoma usually consist of a top plate on the front springs and an add a leaf in the rear. Usually under $200. A better setup is to use Bilstein 5100 shocks up front set to 1.75 or 2.5 inches of lift. Talk to these people if you have any question.
http://downsouthmotorsports.com/
X2. Leveling kits or the billies won't require UCAs. UCAs are normally required for lifts over 2-3" in order to correct the front end geometry and allow for proper alignment.

The billies in front will perform better and give a better ride than spacers. They are more robust, and will allow proper travel. For that you pay a little more.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:00 PM   #513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMW View Post
A leveling kit for a Tacoma usually consist of a top plate on the front springs and an add a leaf in the rear. Usually under $200. A better setup is to use Bilstein 5100 shocks up front set to 1.75 or 2.5 inches of lift. Talk to these people if you have any question.
http://downsouthmotorsports.com/
So on a stock TRD Sport that comes w Bilistiens, get JUST front 5100's?

How hard is the install?
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:02 AM   #514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWCCBEE View Post
So on a stock TRD Sport that comes w Bilistiens, get JUST front 5100's?

How hard is the install?
Install is pretty straight forward with a good set of tools, nice jack, and jack stands. Plenty of good threads to step you through it on TW.
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:04 AM   #515
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You can do a search here on TW on how to do it. You can replace the shock yourself or pull the strut (spring and shock assembly) and take it to a shop or parts store and have them do. Check around and see who will do it if you don't want to.
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Old 06-03-2013, 07:11 AM   #516
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if I am doing an OME lift of about 2-3" do I need longer brake lines in the front due to a longer drop?
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Old 06-03-2013, 06:24 PM   #517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travis.diller View Post
if I am doing an OME lift of about 2-3" do I need longer brake lines in the front due to a longer drop?
Not in the front but it is recommended for the rear.
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Old 06-06-2013, 01:32 PM   #518
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if i have a 3inch body lift on a 2000 toyota tacoma can i add a suspension lift to it without having to doing anything extra? or taking off the body lift?
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Old 06-06-2013, 02:28 PM   #519
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Originally Posted by bjboucher View Post
Not in the front but it is recommended for the rear.
Recommended for front and rear.
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Old 06-06-2013, 02:29 PM   #520
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Originally Posted by ryan27 View Post
if i have a 3inch body lift on a 2000 toyota tacoma can i add a suspension lift to it without having to doing anything extra? or taking off the body lift?
Yes you can. But you should go ahead slap yourself for installing a body lift.
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