bjmoose installs full OME kit & rear brake lines with pics

So do you really need to do brake lines with this kit? I am not going to be rock crawling this rig.

What other things where needed that did not come with the kit? So far I see it is sway bar lowering brackets and U-bolts for leaf springs. Anything else?

 

Get extended lines. You never know when you'll extend the front or rear and damage the oem stuff.

Sway bar is over-rated. Delete.

My kit came with u-bolts.

 

My sway bar was fine. After about a year I completely removed the sway bar and I think it rides smoother now. Think about how far the axle might droop if a tire shop lifts truck by frame rather than axle. I checked it. Stock rear brake lines pull rather tight. Some bridge transitions and other hwy bumps can cause a lot of extension. I thought it was a risk not worth taking so got rear lines. My leafs from Toytec had ubolts included.

 

so regular cab 2nd gen guys.....how are the OME front coils holding up over time?I have the wheelers HD leaf packs out back with billy shocks....did that first due to breaking a rear leaf spring awhile back.have stupid rake right now but knew id be upgrading front eventually which is coming up soon now.i was thinking of 884s with top plate to keep some down travel instead of 885s as I wont see armor for quite awhile but want to lift and bring her close to or level in the front.thoughts?!I did remove the overload spring from the leafs and am still netting about 3 inches higher in the rear.dont want a super stiff front though or bro lean but also dont want the front to sag or settle too much over time

 

I don't know of anyone who has measured, but it seems like if you also replace the UCA, then you'll get a bit more droop with 884s and a small top plate.

The most uncomfortable aspect of my 885 reg cab lift is on pavement going over expansion joints, speed bumps, etc - anything where the suspension tops out and the truck ends up dropping off the small bump.

And that's after adding quite a bit of weight in tools, winch mount, skids, etc...

 

Agree

 

I've had 885 on my access cab for 14 months. Same complaint about exp joints and speed bumps. I will say that since removing the sway bar maybe 2 months ago, the ride has smoothed out a lot more. Also, hit bumps at an angle so both fronts don't slam down at the same time.

 

ordering soon. sub'd for reference.

great write-up!

 

I've installed 2 sets of Dakars now and as long as you have buddy there to help, you should be able to get the bolts in without using the bottle jack method mentioned. Both times we were able to maneuver them into place and get all the bolts in without too much effort. It's definitely a 2 man job though to get them in there without a lot of difficulty.

 

finally found someone that did a write up on brake lines thank you i found this very difficult to search for

 

I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question, but how long were your replacement brake lines?

 

Thanks Steve, Ive read your detailed write up a number of times. Well done.
Apparently I had a brain fart each time I read the above quote from your OP.
Now that I'm researching Brake Line replacement, it's pretty glaring.
Was it the metal brake line you clamped?
If so, what was the resolution to the destruction?
Have you realized a non-destructive technique? Threaded plug, cap, etc.?
Thanks again for making us non-mechanics' lives a little easier.



CC

 

Nevermind.......................




S.U.R. & R FLS330 Fluid Line Stopper
+/- Thirty Bucks, Shipped.......... HERE
Eastwood has them too, for more moola.
I'll let ya know how the work in a month or two
Thanks again for the write-up.



CC

 

I just let mine drip. Didn't lose that much fluid and was better than clamping brake lines in my opinion.

 

Yeah, I was going pretty slow and just made sure the reservoir stayed full. Was pretty messy but no damage done. Just kept my oil catch pan underneath while I was working. If you get OCTaco lines it should go quicker and be less messy. I had to grind the opening for one side of the lines using Wheeler's lines which slowed things down.

 

Looks like you've solved it - but I clamped the original factory soft lines, since I was going to discard them anyway. No, don't destructively clamp the hard lines. That would be bad.

 

Thanks. I had surmised that after posting, then thinking about it.
The equated the term destructive with permanent.
Figured if you'd clamped the metal lines, you'd have posted the fix.
Didn't think of the soft lines, figuring I'd keep 'em.


CC

 

Anybody whose installed the

$81 D29xl Leaf Spring

D29xl AAL, where did you sandwich that leaf? The leaf is the exact same length as, if my memory serves me correctly, the 4th leaf down. Now I've already assembled my leaf packs with one on top of and the other pack below. I couldn't sit around and not do anything while I waited for the rest of the kit to arrive. The way I saw it at the time is it's easier to fix one pack than to fix two. Any insight on this matter out does it not matter because the leaves are the same length?

-J

 

Cool beans. Basically what I took away from that is it does not matter since the 3rd leaf down in the Dakar leaf pack is the same length as the

$81 d29xl leaf spring

d29xl AAL option as received. Therefore, by definition, it doesn't matter where the d29xl is positioned, either above the 3rd leaf or below. Pretty sure I scoured this thread, must've missed that post and I'm only like 30 or so pages into the OME mega Q&A thread. Thanks.

-J

 

Subsubsub- I'll need to find this later!

Thanks