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bjmoose installs full OME kit & rear brake lines with pics

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Old 01-21-2014, 08:06 AM   #201
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So do you really need to do brake lines with this kit? I am not going to be rock crawling this rig.

What other things where needed that did not come with the kit? So far I see it is sway bar lowering brackets and U-bolts for leaf springs. Anything else?
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:28 AM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Utard View Post
So do you really need to do brake lines with this kit? I am not going to be rock crawling this rig.

What other things where needed that did not come with the kit? So far I see it is sway bar lowering brackets and U-bolts for leaf springs. Anything else?
Get extended lines. You never know when you'll extend the front or rear and damage the oem stuff.

Sway bar is over-rated. Delete.

My kit came with u-bolts.
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:06 AM   #203
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My sway bar was fine. After about a year I completely removed the sway bar and I think it rides smoother now. Think about how far the axle might droop if a tire shop lifts truck by frame rather than axle. I checked it. Stock rear brake lines pull rather tight. Some bridge transitions and other hwy bumps can cause a lot of extension. I thought it was a risk not worth taking so got rear lines. My leafs from Toytec had ubolts included.
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Old 01-28-2014, 10:09 AM   #204
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so regular cab 2nd gen guys.....how are the OME front coils holding up over time?I have the wheelers HD leaf packs out back with billy shocks....did that first due to breaking a rear leaf spring awhile back.have stupid rake right now but knew id be upgrading front eventually which is coming up soon now.i was thinking of 884s with top plate to keep some down travel instead of 885s as I wont see armor for quite awhile but want to lift and bring her close to or level in the front.thoughts?!I did remove the overload spring from the leafs and am still netting about 3 inches higher in the rear.dont want a super stiff front though or bro lean but also dont want the front to sag or settle too much over time
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:25 PM   #205
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I don't know of anyone who has measured, but it seems like if you also replace the UCA, then you'll get a bit more droop with 884s and a small top plate.

The most uncomfortable aspect of my 885 reg cab lift is on pavement going over expansion joints, speed bumps, etc - anything where the suspension tops out and the truck ends up dropping off the small bump.

And that's after adding quite a bit of weight in tools, winch mount, skids, etc...
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:27 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjmoose View Post
The most uncomfortable aspect of my 885 lift is on pavement going over expansion joints, speed bumps, etc - anything where the suspension tops out and the truck ends up dropping off the small bump.


Agree
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:38 AM   #207
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I've had 885 on my access cab for 14 months. Same complaint about exp joints and speed bumps. I will say that since removing the sway bar maybe 2 months ago, the ride has smoothed out a lot more. Also, hit bumps at an angle so both fronts don't slam down at the same time.
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Old 03-16-2014, 06:10 PM   #209
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Steve, another thanks for your guide. It was nice to find the relevant torque specs in one place.

If you haven't already seen them, the MOOG LCA cam bolt kit would be a nice addition to your OP.
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Old 03-16-2014, 07:40 PM   #210
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I've installed 2 sets of Dakars now and as long as you have buddy there to help, you should be able to get the bolts in without using the bottle jack method mentioned. Both times we were able to maneuver them into place and get all the bolts in without too much effort. It's definitely a 2 man job though to get them in there without a lot of difficulty.
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Old 03-16-2014, 07:57 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjboucher View Post
I've installed 2 sets of Dakars now and as long as you have buddy there to help, you should be able to get the bolts in without using the bottle jack method mentioned. Both times we were able to maneuver them into place and get all the bolts in without too much effort. It's definitely a 2 man job though to get them in there without a lot of difficulty.
I did mine by myself without any problems. Two things helped.

1. As Steve said, get the axle as low as possible so you have room to work. Having the truck sitting fairly high also helps put the job at a more comfortable position.

2. Leave the rear shackle bolts loose so it pivots freely, allowing easy movement of the spring.
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:12 PM   #212
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finally found someone that did a write up on brake lines thank you i found this very difficult to search for
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:57 PM   #213
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I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question, but how long were your replacement brake lines?
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Old 07-10-2014, 05:46 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjmoose View Post
The manual cautions that letting air get into the master cylinder means towing to the dealer.
So as soon as I disconnected the old line, I clamped it with a vice grip.
I'd like to use a non-destructive technique, but couldn't think of any. (no photo)
Thanks Steve, Ive read your detailed write up a number of times. Well done.
Apparently I had a brain fart each time I read the above quote from your OP.
Now that I'm researching Brake Line replacement, it's pretty glaring.
Was it the metal brake line you clamped?
If so, what was the resolution to the destruction?
Have you realized a non-destructive technique? Threaded plug, cap, etc.?
Thanks again for making us non-mechanics' lives a little easier.



CC
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Old 07-25-2014, 04:52 PM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cape Codder View Post
Thanks Steve, Ive read your detailed write up a number of times. Well done.
Apparently I had a brain fart each time I read the above quote from your OP.
Now that I'm researching Brake Line replacement, it's pretty glaring.
Was it the metal brake line you clamped?
If so, what was the resolution to the destruction?

Have you realized a non-destructive technique? Threaded plug, cap, etc.?
Thanks again for making us non-mechanics' lives a little easier.


CC
Nevermind.......................




S.U.R. & R FLS330 Fluid Line Stopper
+/- Thirty Bucks, Shipped.......... HERE
Eastwood has them too, for more moola.
I'll let ya know how the work in a month or two
Thanks again for the write-up.



CC

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Old 07-25-2014, 05:28 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cape Codder View Post
Thanks Steve, Ive read your detailed write up a number of times. Well done.
Apparently I had a brain fart each time I read the above quote from your OP.
Now that I'm researching Brake Line replacement, it's pretty glaring.
Was it the metal brake line you clamped?
If so, what was the resolution to the destruction?
Have you realized a non-destructive technique? Threaded plug, cap, etc.?
Thanks again for making us non-mechanics' lives a little easier.



CC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cape Codder View Post
Nevermind.......................


S.U.R. & R FLS330 Fluid Line Stopper
+/- Thirty Bucks, Shipped.......... HERE
Eastwood has them too, for more moola.
I'll let ya know how the work in a month or two
Thanks again for the write-up.



CC

I just let mine drip. Didn't lose that much fluid and was better than clamping brake lines in my opinion.
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Old 07-25-2014, 06:59 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjboucher View Post
I just let mine drip. Didn't lose that much fluid and was better than clamping brake lines in my opinion.
Same here. You'd have to be awfully slow to have more fluid drip out than is held in the reservoir, and air isn't going to enter the system until the reservoir runs dry. Clamping a hard line will damage it, and clamping a hose may weaken it. If I feel the need, I slip a simple rubber plug or cap on the end of the hard line. Small sets of plugs and caps are available in many parts stores, and they come in handy.
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Old 07-25-2014, 07:56 PM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoorDing View Post
Same here. You'd have to be awfully slow to have more fluid drip out than is held in the reservoir, and air isn't going to enter the system until the reservoir runs dry. Clamping a hard line will damage it, and clamping a hose may weaken it. If I feel the need, I slip a simple rubber plug or cap on the end of the hard line. Small sets of plugs and caps are available in many parts stores, and they come in handy.
Yeah, I was going pretty slow and just made sure the reservoir stayed full. Was pretty messy but no damage done. Just kept my oil catch pan underneath while I was working. If you get OCTaco lines it should go quicker and be less messy. I had to grind the opening for one side of the lines using Wheeler's lines which slowed things down.
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:00 PM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjboucher View Post
Yeah, I was going pretty slow and just made sure the reservoir stayed full. Was pretty messy but no damage done. Just kept my oil catch pan underneath while I was working. If you get OCTaco lines it should go quicker and be less messy. I had to grind the opening for one side of the lines using Wheeler's lines which slowed things down.
I wasn't happy with the way the Crown brake hoses I bought through ToyTec fit. The included retention clips didn't engage the brackets properly, and the OEM clips didn't work, either. I found a better solution.

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Old 07-25-2014, 08:38 PM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cape Codder View Post
Thanks Steve, Ive read your detailed write up a number of times. Well done.
Apparently I had a brain fart each time I read the above quote from your OP.
Now that I'm researching Brake Line replacement, it's pretty glaring.
Was it the metal brake line you clamped?
If so, what was the resolution to the destruction?
Have you realized a non-destructive technique? Threaded plug, cap, etc.?
Thanks again for making us non-mechanics' lives a little easier.
CC
Looks like you've solved it - but I clamped the original factory soft lines, since I was going to discard them anyway. No, don't destructively clamp the hard lines. That would be bad.
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