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bjmoose installs full OME kit & rear brake lines with pics

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Old 12-05-2010, 09:56 PM   #41
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Good right up. i want to switch to OME.
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Old 12-19-2010, 10:19 AM   #42
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Excellent write-up for the install on your kit!! The same kit I would like to put on. Will definitely be referencing your thread during my attempt.

Thank you!!
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:45 PM   #43
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I did read your thread, so are you still running the same setup, with no front bumper? I guess there's no way of knowing how the cv's are holding up?
This of course is my daily driver, so just wanting to make smart choices to save me headaches later, but also build a off road vehicle for wheeling some on the weekends.
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:27 PM   #44
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One more question, just from reading, the 885's or going to be a stiffer ride than the 884's on a reg cab. So what about the height difference, will there be any difference, really wanting to run some 255/85/16.
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Old 03-07-2011, 12:17 PM   #45
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If i was you i would run 885's they may be a little stiff the first year, but if you wheel your truck than they will hold their height a lot better over time. I run 886's with a winch, and bumper i scared mine will sag to soon.
Nate
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Old 03-07-2011, 12:32 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GARYRED View Post
...are you still running the same setup, with no front bumper? I guess there's no way of knowing how the cv's are holding up?
Yep. I've added fifty pounds of front receiver and ten pounds of winch power cable. But the biggest difference is the passage of time. I've drooped a little and the rubber fins on the inner CVs are no longer physically touching each other - which is a good thing.

Quote:
One more question, just from reading, the 885's or going to be a stiffer ride than the 884's on a reg cab. So what about the height difference, will there be any difference, really wanting to run some 255/85/16.
884 and 885 have the same spring rate. Only difference is 885 is 10mm longer. That equates to roughly about 3/4" of ride height difference, all else being equal.

You could do 884s plus a 10mm top plate spacer; that'd give you the same height with just a little more droop which might help with the ride.
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Old 03-08-2011, 06:15 AM   #47
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So pretty much the only thing to worry about with the 885's is going to be the stiff ride for awhile. I can deal with that because with in the year, I'll be buying a demello bumper and winch, plus I will have a better chance with 255/85/16 not rubbing as much with stock steelies. Will removing the sway bar help with the ride any?
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:35 AM   #48
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Hey Moose could give us some new measurements (center of hub to fender) so we can see how much sag you have had 6 months into the lift??
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:04 AM   #49
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Wish I could, but I blew up the laboratory when I switched to bushwacker fender flares, so a direct comparison measurent is no longer possible.

Sorry.
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:26 AM   #50
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I had a copy of your install printed out when I installed my lift. I noticed in your install that you said you had a tough time getting enough pry down on your LCA to get the bottom of the shock into it's perch. I also installed 885's with a 10mm top plate and it was looking like there was no way i was going to get the LCA pulled down enough to get the longer shock assembly in place.

My answer was to have my kid give a little downward pressure on the LCA with a 4' 2x4 while I took a small chunk of 2x6 stood it on end on my floor jack and I was able to jack up and compress the shock just enough to get the lower shock mount into the perch with a tap from a hammer. That still left trying to get the lower bolt to line up to connect the shock. The perfect pry bar for this was my tire tool. It had just enough bend in the end and was just the right size to get under the bottom of the shock so I could pry it up into place to insert the bolt.

Your post was a big help.
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Old 03-08-2011, 12:37 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valley Viking View Post
Your post was a big help.
Glad I could help.
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:04 PM   #52
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i may have missed it in your build but was wondering if you needed axle shims... it seems like the one piece propeller shaft is less prone to driveline vibes...
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Old 03-11-2011, 12:43 PM   #53
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Yeah, if you look close you'll see how I measured the driveline flange to calculate the driveline angles - and I ended up using a 2 degree shim "fat forward" to match the pinion angle to the transfer case angle.

I still have "big truck thrum" vibration at about 55mph.
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Old 03-11-2011, 12:54 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oswego View Post
Great write up, but I have one question. Why did you disassemble the tie rods?
Uh, because the Haynes guide had that as one of the steps

Doing it again, I'd still disconnect the tie rod end to make room to insert the strut, but I wouldn't mess with the adjustment nut.
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Old 03-11-2011, 01:10 PM   #55
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Yeah, I left my upper and lower control arms connected.

It seems fair to say you either need to disconnect the tie rod end, or a control arm.
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Old 03-12-2011, 01:54 PM   #56
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When i installed my 886's i took off my sway bar as well. I cannot even tell the difference on the road.
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Old 04-19-2011, 11:23 PM   #57
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Steve ,

I wanted to thank you , today myself and my mechanic friend installed my OME kit , with 885's , Nitrochargers , N182's and the Dakars , we also installed LR UCA's .

I took a copy of this write up with me for reference , and we managed to get it all done in about 5 hours with no major hassles .

Thanks again .

Pete
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:11 PM   #58
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Glad it helped, Pete!
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:34 PM   #59
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Hi

I just receive my OME lift kit and i have a few question about the dakar leaf spring. I'm not sure but i think the side with the bushing is the front?

I also want to know if i have to buy a set of bushing for the other end or if it's easy to take the one on the old leaf pack?

Thank you
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:42 PM   #60
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Yep, the side with the pressed in bushing is the front, and it is recommended to buy a new rear bushing, and coat it with Vaseline or something before inserting it.
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