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bjmoose installs full OME kit & rear brake lines with pics

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Old 07-17-2013, 07:28 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjboucher View Post
Even if I didn't replace them though, disconnecting the UCAs from the rest was really easy. Take one nut off and then a couple taps with a hammer. Seems like a pretty easy alternative to make room for the new shock.
I did it this way also, very easy. And now that just one nut is attaching the balljoint to the UCAs with the LR UCAs i will probably do it the same way next time.
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Old 07-17-2013, 08:11 PM   #163
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Originally Posted by evanmb31 View Post
I did it this way also, very easy. And now that just one nut is attaching the balljoint to the UCAs with the LR UCAs i will probably do it the same way next time.
Thanks for confirming my way is better!
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Old 07-17-2013, 08:14 PM   #164
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Originally Posted by bjboucher View Post
Thanks for confirming my way is better!
when installing new UCAs yes definitely better, i have never done it the other way. But just to piss chris off ya, this way is better, doing it the other way is stupid
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:12 AM   #165
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Originally Posted by evanmb31 View Post
when installing new UCAs yes definitely better, i have never done it the other way. But just to piss chris off ya, this way is better, doing it the other way is stupid
Hehe!
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:31 AM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evanmb31 View Post
when installing new UCAs yes definitely better, i have never done it the other way. But just to piss chris off ya, this way is better, doing it the other way is stupid

Quote:
Originally Posted by bjboucher View Post
Hehe!
Dickless bastards, the both of you
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:54 AM   #167
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If you have stock UCAs it would be easier to remove the UCA from the spindle, if you are using aftermarket UCAs there is plenty of room so you don't have to remove it. I've redone my suspension 4 times so I am basing my claim off experience.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:08 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Large View Post
If you have stock UCAs it would be easier to remove the UCA from the spindle, if you are using aftermarket UCAs there is plenty of room so you don't have to remove it. I've redone my suspension 4 times so I am basing my claim off experience.
It's much easier to remove the two bolts holding the lower ball joint assembly on the spindle than it is to break free the tapered shaft (from the upper ball joint) that is normally jammed and rusted into place on top of the spindle, even with the right tools.

With all of the work I have done on my old 95 and now a Gen 2 I can tell you I have tried every approach to save time, money, and destruction. I've had the Gen 1 torn apart so many times I've lost count.

You tell me what makes sense: messing with a tapered shaft or simply putting an air gun on two bolts and watching it all fall apart easily.
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:03 PM   #169
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Light racing UCAs i just have to take one bolt off :P
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Old 07-25-2013, 01:55 PM   #170
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Originally Posted by evanmb31 View Post
Light racing UCAs i just have to take one bolt off :P
Yes, there's that. Some of us are still running OEM
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Old 10-05-2013, 10:19 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YOTA LOVER View Post
It's much easier to remove the two bolts holding the lower ball joint assembly on the spindle than it is to break free the tapered shaft (from the upper ball joint) that is normally jammed and rusted into place on top of the spindle, even with the right tools.

With all of the work I have done on my old 95 and now a Gen 2 I can tell you I have tried every approach to save time, money, and destruction. I've had the Gen 1 torn apart so many times I've lost count.

You tell me what makes sense: messing with a tapered shaft or simply putting an air gun on two bolts and watching it all fall apart easily.


I'm with Chris... and the LCA
I got myself way pissed off trying to take the driver side coil-over assembly out by way of the UCA. A puzzle I couldn't solve. Plus I had the rotor assembly wanting to flop all over the place with brake lines and wheel sensors(?) in harms way. Ended up also releasing the LCA from the LBJ and it came right out. Plus made the install and bolting the bottom of the coil-over assembly go much easier... started with the LCA first and literally cut the passenger side down to a fraction of the time. Just left the rotor assembly hanging/stabilized from UCA (but also supported by milk crate) while I popped coil-cover out... swapped the shock and threw it back in before I was finished with my dr. pepper.

now unfortunately I mangled my stabilizer linkage. (2010, and they were pretty gnarly) poor design. my brother is a mechanic and stopped by to check on me... I was bumming thinking that I did something wrong tying to remove them... he informed me that they usually have to be replaced. no great way to take them out when that nut and bolt are rusted up. The allen key to hold in place while you wrench on them? no good! (allen key hole was rounded out in 3 attempts.) look like a pair of them will run me about $100 at the local carquest... also the place I rented the spring compressor.

Anyways... this thread was a great help... even all the conversation that came afterwards. Thanks to All!



in all,
i changed out my stock front shocks for a buddy's TRD billies. (only had about 8k on them) I also added 2.5in Daystar lift. Next I have Ruff Country 3in AAL for the back end. I have a feeling that will be a little easier.
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:28 PM   #173
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has anyone done a complete ome lift and had it add to the tacolean ? I did 887's with ome shocks ,lr ucas and a Dakar leaf pak with ome rear shocks .didn't have but 1/4 lean before ended up with 5/8 front and 7/8 rear wth ??? oh ya and I did do 5 mm trim packer on driver strut .if you did what size top plate spacer did you use to correct it ??
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:55 PM   #174
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Do your Dakars have a + and - on them? If so, is the + on the driver's side?
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:05 AM   #175
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I used this to install on my '13 DCSB and it was invaluable...THANKS MOOSE! I thought I was going to lose my mind putting those leaf springs on...dang!

Separately, for the UCAs, I didn't end up cutting the factory bolt. I'm certainly not a fan of hurting my baby but the amount of bending required to get it out then reinstall it was pretty minimal of anyone is wondering

Thanks again for taking the time to do this write up!
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:59 AM   #177
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mine have a O and a - and the O is on the drivers side
That's correct
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:41 PM   #178
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Originally Posted by lightinglark956 View Post
mine have a O and a - and the O is on the drivers side
Same here.

No spacer used, and no lean measured nor perceived.
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Old 10-26-2013, 05:36 AM   #179
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mine have a O and a - and the O is on the drivers side
Are you sure you put the shocks on the right side up front? Maybe the trim packer is on the passenger side by mistake? If not, must be the 887s.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:10 AM   #180
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887's?
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