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SAWs vs. Camburg

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by jr114, Oct 2, 2010.

  1. Oct 6, 2010 at 9:32 PM
    #21
    SKINUM

    SKINUM Well-Known Member

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    a lot!
    Both go on the shock stud. Keeps the nut from backing off.

    I had some SAW 2.0 rear shocks revalved with a softer then standard shock setting. Ran them for a week until my ICON piggybacks came in. For my type of wheeling and everyday use the SAW 2.0's are = to the piggybacks.
     
  2. Oct 6, 2010 at 9:36 PM
    #22
    jr114

    jr114 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    duh im spacing on the simple concepts. need sleep....torque em both or just the top?guess it cant hurt to torque em both seeing as how they only get torqued to 15ftlbs
     
  3. Oct 6, 2010 at 9:45 PM
    #23
    SKINUM

    SKINUM Well-Known Member

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    Wouldn't hurt to do either I imagine. I couldn't find a torque number so that helps me out. :D
     
  4. Oct 6, 2010 at 9:46 PM
    #24
    jr114

    jr114 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    heres what i use its the manual
     
  5. Oct 6, 2010 at 10:43 PM
    #25
    jr114

    jr114 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    anyone have any idea what height / type of ride ill be looking forward to if i set the coilovers with 2" thread drivers side and 1.75" pass?
     
  6. Oct 7, 2010 at 8:10 PM
    #26
    chad68

    chad68 Master Jedi Member I am...

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    I noticed the two top nuts as well. Smaller one goes on top of the thicker one. Tighten the big one down to spec, then tighten the smaller nut against the thicker nut. Kinda acts like a lock washer, sorta. I've used that system before and sometimes it doesn't do any good and could still come loose but better than nothing.

    On the tip of the shaft there is a flat spot you can put a tiny open end wrench on to keep the piston from spinning when you lossen or tighten down the main nut.

    Don't ask me a lot of questions about doing the coilovers LOL. My only concern is removing the pivot joint that connects the spindle to the upper control arm. I don't know if the joint part is splinned and sits in the spindle or what keeps it from spinning when loosing or tightening the nut. Guess I will find out Saturday.
     
  7. Oct 7, 2010 at 8:41 PM
    #27
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Wouldn't you fucking know it, the same thing happened to me on the Icon Resi Kit I just had delivered. I just emailed offroad warehouse where I ordered from, and if the issue isn't resolved there I'll be going to Icon.

    Also, be aware that Icon does NOT warrant their products for damage incurred in shipping because of their piss-poor packaging of front reservoir coilovers. I'm going to have to touch-up my coilover springs as some of the finish was scraped off during shipping, and I don't need them rusting.

    Honestly, though the hardware seems top notch, the packaging and the fact that they charge you $20+ for the adjustment wrench is plain half-assed.
     
  8. Oct 7, 2010 at 9:24 PM
    #28
    chad68

    chad68 Master Jedi Member I am...

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    A lot of people use a big ass 3/8" diameter phillips screwdriver or a punch. I picked up a punch and with the coilover on my carpet, snapped like a twig with literly 10, yes 10lbs of force. Noticed it was made in India. LOL.

    I'm going to see if I can find a 3/8" screwdriver or punch made in the US.
     
  9. Oct 7, 2010 at 10:05 PM
    #29
    jr114

    jr114 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    chad..thanks for the info. ya im going to use a spring compressor. i watched them do it on offroad warehouse's site. just compress it a little and tighten down the top plate. little by little. let me know how you remove the upper control arm from the spindle..and if your willing to take some pics and post it up here id greatly appreciate it.
     
  10. Oct 8, 2010 at 12:46 AM
    #30
    chad68

    chad68 Master Jedi Member I am...

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    I just posted this in the sticky thread for doing the coilovers.....

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/31862-how-front-shock-spring-removal.html



    I got it now!!.

    Both bolts have a notch at the bottom for an allen key to keep them from spinning.

    Only thing I'm going to try different is in regards to breaking the ball mount bolt loose from the spindle hole, once that nut is removed.

    To me it makes more sense to smack the very outside edge of the upper arm than smacking the bolt. My reasoning is that I'm assuming the top side of the assembly is attached to the upper arm with pressed in splines, since I can't find any pics of it. So instead of taking that chance that the splines would break loose before the bolt clears the spindle hole, I'm going to smack on the ouside edge of the upper arm. Same effect, without the risk of poping the assembly out of the upper arm.

    Let the cursing and tool throwing begin!
     
  11. Oct 8, 2010 at 8:01 AM
    #31
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    There are no "Splines" on the ball joint. Its a taper fit.
     
  12. Oct 8, 2010 at 9:18 PM
    #32
    chad68

    chad68 Master Jedi Member I am...

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    OK but what holds the top part of it into the top side of the upper arm?

    I'm talking about the part on the top side of the upper arm that looks like a brass 50 cent coin.

    The whole thing is just one long taper from the top side to the end of the taper?
     
  13. Oct 8, 2010 at 9:25 PM
    #33
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Ok.....That part is pressed in.
     
  14. Oct 9, 2010 at 2:30 PM
    #34
    jr114

    jr114 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hows the install going Chad???
     
  15. Oct 9, 2010 at 6:44 PM
    #35
    chad68

    chad68 Master Jedi Member I am...

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    Polished 16x8 Pro Comp 1069's 4" BS Nitto Mud Grapplers 305/70/16 Magnaflow & glasspack muffler Stainless tip K&N 63 series Aircharger Vent visors Autometer volt and dig. temp. gauge custom mounted Factory chrome rear bumper (not black factory, one) TRD pedal covers TRD skid plate Hurst T handle shift knob Rear Tint Clear bra on the sides Chrome extinguisher Icon non resi coilovers, ICON RR shocks, black seat covers. And some other crap

    I'm holding off till I get the missing resi bracket shipped, so I can do it all at once. I want to get all the swearing and tool throwing out of my system in one day. I'll put the sway brackets in Sunday but that's all, till next weekend.

    Would piss me off to put the coilovers in and set the height and not be able to put the shocks in. That's only half a masterpiece.
     

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