35's and 3 inch lift on 2nd Gen.?

yeah I picked up some wheel spacers 1.5 inch and i am still debating if i wanna use those and the full sized glassworks, or get the all pro mini ones and leave the spacers off.

 

you dont? with my 285s I have sheet metal screws holding on one of my fenders

 

I wasn't hitting my fenders at all when I had 285s. How wide are your wheels and what backspacing do they have?

 

I had to trim a little bit of my inner fenders but I've never come in contact with the thicker fender flares. I haven't had a chance to do any serious wheeling but I flexed it and turned it pretty good and never have had contact. I do have slight contact on the uca at full lock and sway bar on one side. I think I don't have any fender contact because I'm on stock wheels with no spacers.

 

4.5, It doesnt really come in contact with the fenders but they are torqued some how and all the clips break. I have clearence with the body mount after i got it chopped and now I shouldnt rub anywhere while just flexing. I need another pismo trip to see how far they get stuffed in the fire wall.

 

op..i was thinking about doing this, but kind of decided on going with a 295/70 roughly a 34x12, maybe an option for you to at least think about

 

I agree, Jason (stroM-) has them and they look awesome!

 

thats what im getting the nitto trail grapplers, on the few trucks i have personally seen them on they look sick. cant wait

 

I would say pick a size you think looks good. Size really doesnt matter as much as driving when youre on the trail. A guy in my club lead me through the rubicon in a 85 pickup on 31" and stock suspension and had no problems at all.. he never got stuck once.

 

Is it absolutely necessary to do the cab mount chop to clear 35s? I dont take the truck off road all that much, and when I do, its nothing crazy. Really love the way the 35s look, and cant find a 295/70r17 that I like, or that is in stock. Just trying to figure out if going with 35s is too much effort

 

yes. It rubs at only slight turn on flat pavement if you do not chop it. Its really not that hard to do though.

 

I think i can cut it with a grinder, its the welding a piece back on part. dont have access to a welder anymore. Relentless, after removing the stock flares and cutting the fender itself..did you or are you able to put the stock flare back on? tia

 

Hey Guys,

Would it fit better if I got rims with a bigger B/S like 3.75" instead of 4.5"? on a 35" Tire

 

So would a 3" lift and fiberglass flares be able to clear 35"s easy? If not im considering custom fenders and a flatbed I dont wanna go over 3" so maybe a flatbed and some tube fenders upfront would be the ticket? any suggestions for me?

 

Yea, you should be fine with the cab mount chopped and pinch weld pounded back.

 

Thanks I appreciate it! Just wish I could fit some 15" rims =/ trying to find the best rim so rubbing wont occure but having a hell of a hard time. Ive heard 4.5" back spacing and rubbing wont occure Im lookin at either the bilstiend 3" from toytec or the ome... maybe icon extended travel but thats a bit pricey =(

 

so for icon extended travel coil overs "remote resiviour" and camburg upper control arms with ome rear be a good set up? For 1,973.00 free shipping? If so Ill be ordering them soon. Just need imput.

 

Do you mean the Dakar leafs when u say OME rear or an AAL with OME rear shocks?

 

I think its just the shocks? It just says nitrogen shocks no leaf info?

 

Oh okay, well it wouldn't be bad, but I think you'd need at least 2" rear lift if you want to run 35s