Lift Vs Cost Vs Vibration... Is it worth it??

Hey guys, I would like to ask you guys that had lift done about this. I am planing to get the TSB done for my 2010 TRD sport 4doors, following by the 5100 1.75".
Actually I would like to have even higher, like a 3" lift
however the more I learn and read about lifts, I am having 2nd thoughts about it.
It seems that the average person spends around $500-800 to get the lift installed and Aligned, just to have vibrations that can not be fixed. I read that some even spent another $400 trying different things to get the vibration corrected and only get it slightly better, some even worst!
I don't have to have the lift, just would like to... but the last thing I need is to be short of some hard earn cash and regrets about it.
I am sure I am not the only one wondering about it!
So thanks in advance for your replies!!

 

I have my front 5100s to 1.75" with the rear spring TSB. no vibrations.

5100s vs great cost vs no vibrations was worth it for me.

 

It's pretty hit or miss if you get vibes or not.

 

Yeah, modding away from stock has risks. Just part of the game. Personally for me there was never consideration given to not lifting.

 

mycurrent setup is 5100's at 1.75 (stock coils) and a 1.5" aal non tsb.... 0 vibes
Ride is stiffer, but the truck takes larger hits better ( pot holes/ speed bumps/ off roading)

cost about $400 aligned for me .. definetly worth it in my opinion.

Side note: i will be going up to 3" in front with OME coils when i need new tires (285/75/16) and UCA's as i am about at my limit right now for alignment

 

I don't need a lift for what I use the truck for so no sense in spending the money to lift. For me it'd be a waste.

 

yup certainly never had any doubts about lifting, have yet to own a truck that hasn't been lifted and modded... 5100's @ 1.75" is what i did and i have no regrets other than maybe one day going with the rcd kit. very minimal costs other than wheels and tires and no vibes, and a great ride.

 

For 4x4's, there is a substantial risk with the 3" lift according to all the reading I have done. There is some deficiency in the front diff. The biggest risk is having the front diff develop problems while out of warranty. In this post here it cost $2200 to replace the failing front diff parts and that was a 2010 model truck.

 

It's not worth it. Don't do it.

But seriously, when you start modding, you're taking on the risk of cascading consequences. Lots of times everything works out great. Sometimes, it doesn't.

Pay your money, take your chances. No whining.

3" = more risky than 1.75"

1.75" = more risky than leaving it stock.

 

What about if you install a front diff drop kit? That would correct the CV angles, although it might increase the drive shaft angle a little bit.

Why would the lift affect the gears? It usually just affects the CV joints.

 

You're still changing the angle between the transfer case and the front end. If you lift, unless it's just a body lift, something within your drive line has to change.

 

im in the same boat youre in.. ive been saving money for a lift and rims and bigger tires and i almost have enough but now im getting to the point where im not sure if i want to spend it on a lift.. ha.. id love to but i dont want to be so worried about something messin up either and having to spend more money..

 

if youre thinking about lifting, the want is just going to grow...just saying..

i'm riding nearly exaclty 3" and have almost no vibes, the vibes i do have i'm pretty sure are from my tires

 

A long time ago, I had a "reliable high end" shop install a high end stereo in my brand new car.

Within a couple weeks, the Body-Control-Module went out.

Dealer said it was caused by the stereo shop. No warranty.

Stereo shop said, hey, you didn't bring it to me to fix. I'm not doing anything for you.

I was out an extra 1500 bucks with my car in the shop for two weeks.

I never got as much enjoyment out of that car as I would have, because driving it always reminded me of the aggravation. In that case, I threw the dice, and lost. Other times, I've won.

Once you go away from stock, you pay your money, you take your chances. No whining.

 

i have a 5100's set at .85 with OME 885's for a little over 3" and have 0 vibs, but i also have Camburg uca's

 

Agreed.

The bottom line: This is an expensive game. If you mod away from stock, you'll have a hell of a time with warranty coverage. And shit may break out of warranty.

Be prepared to pay to fix. Learning to repair your own truck is highly recommended.

Regarding diff drops, this.

Diff drop "fixes" (it's debatable whether they do anything at all on second gens) CV angles and mucks up front driveshaft angle. CVs are cheap. Front diffs, transfer cases aren't. I'd rather eat the CV. Affordable high-angle CV shafts may be coming to the states soon anyway, meaning there may soon be an upgrade solution rather than just a repair solution.

 

I'd say you won with the Tacoma Steve , your truck looks great .