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Light Racing UCA install ?

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Old 02-07-2011, 08:50 PM   #41
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Looked at mine again , the small numbers on mine , which match Scotts , are labelled " Ball joint setting "

The bigger numbers on mine are labelled " Total arm + Ball joint caster change "

So I think you are correct in your explanation Colin .
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:57 AM   #42
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Man, this is confusing. So, I set these puppies at the 0 setting, correct?
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:58 AM   #43
I've done... questionable things.
OZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Man, this is confusing. So, I set these puppies at the 0 setting, correct?
Does your spec sheet look like mine or Scott's ?
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:30 AM   #44
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Quote:
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Man, this is confusing. So, I set these puppies at the 0 setting, correct?
yes
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Old 02-09-2011, 08:25 AM   #45
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do these provide more caster than the camburg 1.25" uniballs?
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Old 02-13-2011, 11:26 PM   #46
I've done... questionable things.
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Fabian ,

If you haven't installed the UCA's yet , there is an installation video on the SPC site here , you just need to register at the site to view it .


http://www.spc-tv.com/install/lt-suv...trol-arms.html
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Old 02-14-2011, 07:23 AM   #48
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Yeah, I seen that video on another thread...thanks. I have the UCA's sitting in my garage now, and I'm just waiting for a warm day to throw them on.

Cheers.
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Old 02-14-2011, 09:45 PM   #49
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Just finished putting in the OME complete kit, now I am waiting for new bolts for the UCA's from Toyota to get here so I can install the LR units. I looked my front end over and decided that I wasn't going to start the install without a set of new bolts on hand. I really don't think my existing bolts will have the clearance to back out, the inner fender is in the way. Looks like I am most likely going to loosen the bolt, tap it back a bit, cut the head of the bolt off with a metal blade on a sawsall and punch the remainder of the bolt out towards the rear. New bolts were only like $5 each but it takes a few days to get them. I think I can slide the new bolts in from the rear, opposite of what they are now.
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:19 AM   #50
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I also took a look at mine, and there is no way just bending the sheet metal back is going to work. I'd have to bend it back like 1.5" to even thing about getting it out that way...def going to have to cut it out I hope my dremel can do the trick? If not then I guess I'll have to think of something else...
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:23 PM   #51
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Installed my LR UCA's yesterday. Piece of cake, this was way easier than I feared it might be. I cut the head of the old bolt off and slid the remainder of the bolt out towards the rear. The bolts are mild steel and cut like butter. There are a few brake lines that you need to strong arm over with your hand to get the last of the old bolt out and to get the new bolt started on the drivers side of the truck, but other than that the old bolts slid right out and the new ones slid right in with no effort. Took about 20 minutes per side.

New bolts from Toyota ended up costing me $12 each. It took the dealer a couple of trys to get the right ones. Installing new bolts is the only way to go. Trying to slid the old bolt out toward the front in one piece with the inner fender in the way would have been a huge pain in the ass if not impossible.

Hopefully I will get the alignment done tommorrow. I'm shooting for 0 toe, 0 camber, and 2.4 caster. We'll see how it goes.

Bought my LR units at Fat Bob's, cheapest I could find anywhere by a long shot. Give them a call for the sale price.

The LR UCA's are a lot beefer than the stock ones. You don't realize how puny the stock arms are until you have one of them in your hand and the LR unit in the other. As far as the arguement if the LR arms are as tough as the TC or Camburgs goes, I don't see how the others could be any stronger than the LR arms. I could drive off a cliff and I ain't gonna hurt these things.
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Old 02-21-2011, 01:18 PM   #52
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Got my alignment done, we see how she drives over the next few days. My son went and picked the truck up and says it steers real nice! Now it's time for new wheels and tires. Right now I have some pretty well worn 265/75/16 Toyo's. Think I will stick with that size or maybe go to 265/70/16 but I'm not sure what brand yet.
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Old 02-22-2011, 04:19 AM   #53
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Might wanna have it aligned again after new tires on it........
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:00 AM   #54
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You think a Dremel would cut through those bolts with a good cutter on it?
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:08 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabulous View Post
You think a Dremel would cut through those bolts with a good cutter on it?
Probably but you will go through a lot of cut-off wheels.
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:30 AM   #56
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never done it before, but don't see why you couldn't just use a hack saw.
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Old 02-23-2011, 04:59 PM   #57
scraping my emblems off my plasti-dip
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will i need new bolts? damnit i have all my shit and just noticed i might need new bolts....shit
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:24 PM   #58
Intentionally cosmetically incorrect.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valley Viking View Post
Installed my LR UCA's yesterday. Piece of cake, this was way easier than I feared it might be. I cut the head of the old bolt off and slid the remainder of the bolt out towards the rear. The bolts are mild steel and cut like butter. There are a few brake lines that you need to strong arm over with your hand to get the last of the old bolt out and to get the new bolt started on the drivers side of the truck, but other than that the old bolts slid right out and the new ones slid right in with no effort. Took about 20 minutes per side.

New bolts from Toyota ended up costing me $12 each. It took the dealer a couple of trys to get the right ones. Installing new bolts is the only way to go. Trying to slid the old bolt out toward the front in one piece with the inner fender in the way would have been a huge pain in the ass if not impossible.
X2, it's possible, but not what I wanted to do when considering all the more the bolts cost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabulous View Post
You think a Dremel would cut through those bolts with a good cutter on it?
Could, but the disc diameter on the Dremel is rather small... gonna eat up discs before they are spent and will have to roll the bolt to keep cutting. They (Dremel dics) are brittle and will fragment if you lean the tool under power even the slightest amount.

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Originally Posted by macgyver View Post
Probably but you will go through a lot of cut-off wheels.
Ditto.

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Originally Posted by crf69 View Post
will i need new bolts? damnit i have all my shit and just noticed i might need new bolts....shit
You don't need new bolts, as long as you don't mind bending your inner fender panel out of the way. Most will just bend it and drift the bolt out, but as Viking said, you'll have a bit more hardware in the way. The bolts are cheap by comparison and make for a cleaner install IMO.

I used the cheap B&D grinder, commonly found at Wally World for under 30 bux, with a $2 dulla cut off wheel... not the grinding disc it comes with... seen in this pic -



Slid the UCA bolt toward the inner fender well and sliced it off as seen here -



Which yields this in no time flat -



Be sure to wear gloves and keep your eyes / face out of the way from the cutting disc. Take care not to lean the grinder while you cut... you don't want to bind the disc under power as it can shatter and be quite harmful to the operator. Safety glasses are worth the investment when using any power tool. You'll end up with a nice install, just as Viking outlined above.
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:41 PM   #59
scraping my emblems off my plasti-dip
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where can i get new bolts online cheap? thanks in advance
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