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Bilstein lift kit vs OME suspension lift kit?

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Old 03-08-2011, 10:49 AM   #1
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Bilstein lift kit vs OME suspension lift kit?

I've read the forums on different lifts and can't seem to get a straight answer. I'm getting a 2011 double cab 4x4 TRD Sport and want a 2.5-3" lift. Dealer recommended revtek but after reading the forum that sounds like a bad idea. I do mainly highway driving 50 miles roundtrip everyday to work so I don't want a rough ride. Not sure if I should go the cheap rout and just get Bilstein 5100's or get one of the two kits below. I can't figure the difference between these two kits besides the brand - Bilstein Adjustable lift kit with 5100 shocks or OME Suspension lift kit?

http://www.toyteclifts.com/index.php...mart&Itemid=72

http://www.toyteclifts.com/index.php...mart&Itemid=72
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:54 AM   #2
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Subbed, I am wondering the same for future lift.
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:21 AM   #3
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First off the OME kit you linked is for the 1st gen and not a 2nd gen.

The Bilstein kit uses a 620 spring rate coil vs OME's 590 spring rate.
The lower the spring rate the softer the ride.

I have also heard the OME valving is softer and it being a twin tube design will give a softer ride than the stiffer valved monotube design of the Bilstein.
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:26 AM   #4
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Oops, your right wrong link

http://www.toyteclifts.com/index.php...mart&Itemid=72

So it's going to come down to personal preference and type of driving, for a softer hwy ride sounds like OME would be better for me. Just to double check neither of these are going to require any major mods like longer break lines ect. Thanks.
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:27 AM   #5
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From what I gather from softest riding to stiffest:
OME N140S struts with OME 884 or 885 coils (ome 9000 struts are valved stiffer)
5100 with eibach coil
5100 with stock coil compressed to give desired lift
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:30 AM   #6
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Major mods no.
brake lines are not required.
new aftermarket UCAs would be required for perfect alignment.
however you may still be able to get it decently aligned with stock UCAs
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:33 AM   #7
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Well, another consideration is instillation cost, I'm not doing it myself so I need to see what the difference in price is for installing just 5100's vs a whole kit. Not sure how much longer that will take.
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:16 PM   #8
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If you just do 5100s that will only raise the front. However ever you may be nose high at the 1.75" without the TSB leafs . With this being said the only labor cost you would save is lifting the rear with either a block or AAL.

Either full kit is going to cost about the same to install.

I personally would not recommend getting the front diff drop with any setup.
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:20 PM   #9
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Forgot to mention you would also save labor if you don't purchase the rear 5100s / have them installed obviously. However I would not recommend that either.
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:29 PM   #10
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I guess if I wanted to keep it cheap I would just do the revtek's like the dealership suggested. Kind of suprised they suggest that if they are as bad as some people say. I just want the look without a super stiff ride on the highway.
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:46 PM   #11
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Just got home, was replying from my phone.

Preload spacers will give you a harsher ride and may wander a bit on the highway due to the new compressed spring preload and the struts not being valved for it.

Top plate spacers will give you the most stock ride quality IF you never hit any bumps which could possibly top out your strut.

You have an expensive truck, save the money and do it right.
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Old 03-08-2011, 06:04 PM   #13
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Here is what Gregero is referring to:


Mixed Lift Total Cost: $570.00
5100 front/rear = 300.00 at DSM
OME coils = 170.00 Toytec
AAL = 80.00 Toytec
1/4" Top Plate Spacer = 20.00 Toytec (For Driver side Lean Correction. OME's Full kit includes the equivalent to this as well)

OME Full Kit No Diff Drop: $670.00

Bilstein 5100 Full Kit No Diff Drop: $620.00 (NOT the Ultimate Lift Kit... Different Animal)
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Old 03-08-2011, 06:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tythias View Post
Just got home, was replying from my phone.

Preload spacers will give you a harsher ride and may wander a bit on the highway due to the new compressed spring preload and the struts not being valved for it.

Top plate spacers will give you the most stock ride quality IF you never hit any bumps which could possibly top out your strut.

You have an expensive truck, save the money and do it right.
http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/r...com-22170.html

Link above has a review claiming Revtek solves some of the spacer problems:

"Now that Revtek as made an introduction to the industry, they seem to bring the "perfect spacer" design to the public. Revtek's spacer is a 3" lift, split between two spacers. The thicker of the two, shown in the picture saying "Revtek", goes in the coil pack. The second spacer is placed above the coil pack. This gives you a 3" lift.

With Revtek's design you do not run into the problem of a stiff suspension, no more topping out, and no stress on the suspension components such as ball joints, cv joints, or cv"

Is this claim full of it or any truth to it?
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedude View Post
http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/r...com-22170.html

Link above has a review claiming Revtek solves some of the spacer problems:

"Now that Revtek as made an introduction to the industry, they seem to bring the "perfect spacer" design to the public. Revtek's spacer is a 3" lift, split between two spacers. The thicker of the two, shown in the picture saying "Revtek", goes in the coil pack. The second spacer is placed above the coil pack. This gives you a 3" lift.

With Revtek's design you do not run into the problem of a stiff suspension, no more topping out, and no stress on the suspension components such as ball joints, cv joints, or cv"

Is this claim full of it or any truth to it?
subbed for this.
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:01 PM   #17
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Hey OP, speaking from experience and I'm sure others may chime in, I would advise you to stay away from spacers. If $$$ is an issue, either save up or buy the 5100 Bilsteins, with an add-a-leaf.

Spacers give you a crappy ride. Stiffer than hell. If you want a true suspension lift both the bilstein or ome are good.

I had spacers for about a year, and regretted buying, bought the full OME set up 885s, nitros (can't remember off the top of my head which ones exactly) and Dakar leaf packs, and I love it.
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tythias View Post
If you just do 5100s that will only raise the front. However ever you may be nose high at the 1.75" without the TSB leafs . With this being said the only labor cost you would save is lifting the rear with either a block or AAL.

Either full kit is going to cost about the same to install.

I personally would not recommend getting the front diff drop with any setup.
I would recommend getting the proper tools to do the lift install yourself (OP)...

you can end up paying less buying the tools than what the actual install would cost, and learn much more about how your suspension works.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/sus...g-removal.html

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/sus...econd-gen.html

Just follow along with these threads, and you should be good.

I just decided to tear my truck apart one day cuz I had the lift just sitting in the garage, ended up getting some help from a member here who had prior experience on suspension installs.

Doing the install myself (with help of course) was a learning experience.
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:22 PM   #19
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Keep ur stock shocks and use rev tek. U will enjoy the ride much better. And the lift is perfectly level.
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:23 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intense View Post
Keep ur stock shocks and use rev tek. U will enjoy the ride much better. And the lift is perfectly level.
Are you joking ?
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