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Alignment measurements Before and After Light Racing UCA's

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by That Dude Tim, May 7, 2011.

  1. May 7, 2011 at 9:40 PM
    #1
    That Dude Tim

    That Dude Tim [OP] Toyota Technician

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    These are pics from the alignment printout from doing a suspension lift on my 2011 Tacoma DCLB 4x4 Sport. First 2 are before and after the night I stayed late at work and did the whole rear and front lift by myself w an alignment w/o new upper control arms. The next 2 are from today with a before and after from adding my new Light Racing UCA's.

    This is the order of the pics:

    1) Right after lift install no adj.

    2) Close as possible to stock maxing out factory adj.

    3) Right after UCA install w/ old adj still.

    4) Current alignment w/ new UCA's (will probably re-check again in a few weeks)


    These are also my heights going from bottom of fender to center of hub with the truck on the ground.

    LF = 23
    RF = 23
    FR = 24
    RR = 24

    DSCN0075.jpg
    DSCN0077.jpg
    DSCN0079.jpg
    DSCN0082.jpg
     
  2. May 11, 2011 at 5:02 PM
    #2
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Thats a dam good alignment!
     
    yazmatic likes this.
  3. May 12, 2011 at 4:08 PM
    #3
    That Dude Tim

    That Dude Tim [OP] Toyota Technician

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    Falken Wildpeak AT3/W, BLK Mk6, ICON's, Firestone Ride Rites, SHLM, Rear view camera switch, 7-pin in bumper, Lighted 4x4 switch, ImMrYo bracket, mudflap delete
    Currently the truck drives great, no more wondering unloaded. Also before the LR UCA's post lift from lock-to-lock I got rubbing when at max left and right while moving. After LR UCA's all better.

    A tip for the long bolt, I bent back a little bit of the inner fender but still wasn't enough. Took my 90* grinder with a ceramic nylok disc and sanded down one side of the washer flat to one of the "hex" sides of the "bolt head."
    Doing so let the bolt side out as long as the flat side I made was facing the fender.

    Only issue is a vibe at 65mph. Had before lift also, still there. Felt through steering wheel. Tires balanced perfect with 6 finger thing, still there. Currently using "counteract balancing beads" in all 4 tires, still there. Don't remember if it did it with the factory Grantreks. Could it be b/c of the agressivenes of the Dura Tracs? Or could it be my 2 piece driveshaft angles are not correct?
     
  4. May 12, 2011 at 4:14 PM
    #4
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    I have the same vibe at the same speed , also had it pre lift as well .
     
  5. May 12, 2011 at 5:20 PM
    #5
    elwood

    elwood "Really, how hard can it be?" Jeremy Clarkson

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    What setting's did you have on the uca' s ball joint before and after the lift?
    looking good btw.
    Cheers
     
  6. May 12, 2011 at 6:16 PM
    #6
    That Dude Tim

    That Dude Tim [OP] Toyota Technician

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    I went back and looked at the caster before I did the alignment the first time post lift. Went with the 2* DEFAULT SETTING on the LR UCA's b/c I maxed out the cam adj before. That's why in pic 3 my caster is over 3*. This would let be back them off to get the alignment in. After the cam adj with the factory adj, I then fine tuned camber. Factory is .5* positive, I went with 0.0* camber.
     
  7. May 13, 2011 at 4:46 AM
    #7
    elwood

    elwood "Really, how hard can it be?" Jeremy Clarkson

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    Thanks OP. so you did not use the adjustable ball joint for the fine tuning of the camber? and used the trucks ability and brought your lower cams back in from max?
    mine now is maxed out on the lower cams and was able to get .2 and .1 camber but sacrificed the caster. What i want to do is put these UCA on an bring the factory settings back from the max and have them more in there middle range.
    I have the instructons for the arms and understand the caster deal and the "D" setting for the 2* as you did , but the camber bit about sliding the ball joint back and forth in the slot i'm not that familiar with. Is there a middle setting for it as well and then the tech can bring my factory cams back from the edge ?
    Cheers:)
     
  8. May 13, 2011 at 1:40 PM
    #8
    Fabulous

    Fabulous Well-Known Member

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    I got a great alignment with my LR UCAs as well. These things are great aren't they? I got 2.5 caster on both sides, 0 camber, and 0.01 toe on both sides. Drives great! I assume I will have to have it checked again in a while as well.
     
  9. May 13, 2011 at 4:56 PM
    #9
    That Dude Tim

    That Dude Tim [OP] Toyota Technician

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    For the "camber adj" on the LR UCA's there is no middle adj stop it's sloted the whole way. The person doing the alignment will need skill and finesse to get it perfect.

    After I pulled the caster and some of the camber w/ the new UCA's on, I then fine tuned the camber. With the factory cam adj they are in sync with caster to get .5* camber at perfect factory specs. If you want 0.0* camber you then adj camber ONLY with the top balljoint adj.

    Here is the order in which to do each alignment angle adj and wear angle FOR TOYOTA TACOMA W/ ADJ UCA's

    1) Pass side lower cam adj, switch between front and rear cams
    2) Drivers side lower cam adj, switch between front and rear cams
    3) Fine tune CAMBER only with the top balljoint adj
    NOTE: I found it easier to do this using the "jack compensation" feature on our Hunter alignment rack. Lets you do this with the front suspension unloaded.
    4) With truck still in Neutral start up and then center steering wheel
    5) Toe adj on the pass side
    6) Toe adj on the drivers side
     
  10. May 13, 2011 at 7:43 PM
    #10
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Tim , you can remove Light Racing UCA's from your " coming soon " part of your sig

    :D
     

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