To block or not to block, that is my dilemna...

Morning folks,

I'm tossing over this one...

I recently traded an '07 access cab 4x4 for an '11 double cab 4x4 for family accommodation reasons. I was heartbroken when got rid of the access cab (great truck), but was quickly relieved by the drive quality and ability to now go to and fro with the family.

My problem is that I have a favorite surf spot that requires a bit of negotiation to access. With the access cab I never had any issues scraping or bottoming out when going there, but with the longer wheel base on the double cab I scrape on the middle of the frame when going over the final rise.

I can't afford an elaborate lift for about a year or so. I am thinking of just putting in a 2" block up front with an AAL in back to suffice until I can muster the funds for a Toytec ULK or something of that nature. Pretty sure that the blocks will give the distance I need because it only scrapes for about a foot or so along the frame.

Ultimately all I want for the truck is 3".

I know blocking is not the way to go, but I don't mind shelling out the few hundred now to be able to access my favorite spot without bottoming out. My worry however is that the block may ultimately damage something over the year or so while I save for something real deal, which I really don't want to happen.

The block system I'm looking at is solid, laser-cut steel and warrantied for life, so I'm not worried about the parts failing but rather what it will do to my truck.

What are your thoughts? Any insight is appreciated.

And I realize there are million threads about the negativity of blocks, but in searching I couldn't find anything that really conceptualized my dilemma...so I apologize for the redundancy of the block issue.

A sincere thank you!

 

ran my 3" over the strut spacer since 2005 without any damage or issues. Had 3.5" blocks out back as well for a few years and now using AAL.

Never had any problems. It sounds as if what you are doing with them isn't going to break anything either.

 

I would say blocks are fine, except that I don't think it will fix your problem. If you're scraping, you need to raise the frame relative to the axles for more clearance and blocks don't do that. Someone feel free to jump in and correct me if im wrong. Bilstien shocks and an aal are probably you're cheapest route. You'll get about 2.5" and you likely won't need the ULC if you're satisfies with it.

 

Yeah, sorry for being unclear. I'm talking spacer lift.

 

Thanks guys for the input. It helps for sure.

 

I HATE IT when some one chimes in that spacers preload your coils!!!! Not the OVER the strut type we are talking about! Adjustable 5100 preload coils and so does revtec.

 

Is the "over the coil" spacer inserted between the spring and strut or is that the "within the coil" spacer? I assume it is the over the coil.

 

Go with 5100s up front instead of spacers, the 5100s are just a little more expensive but are the right way to lift your truck vs spacers.

 

Between 5100's and spacers, which would increase CV angles more? If possible, I would like to keep angles to a minimum until I can do it right (with proper coil-overs and diff drop if needed.)

Forgive the ignorance, but that is why I am here... to learn from those more experienced

 

5100s, spacers and coilovers all will increase the cv angles. If the 5100s, spacers, and coilovers give you 3" of lift the cv angles will be the same. The cv angles is increased by the amount of lift the setup gives you, not what setup you choose.

 

Well, the 2 biggest thing for you right now is price and getting over a mound. So, get a over the strut spacer cause it doesn't require you to rent or buy a coil compressor to install and they are really cheap. The rear no matter what you get will require longer brake line and longer shocks plus it's more work lifting the rear no matter whether you use blocks or AAL. Get blocks or AAL either way...though you may want to get the AAL since you may just leave them on when you upgrade later.

after that save up and read about the different options for you and see what you want. Whether it's OME's, 5100, or coil overs.

 

^thx

 

good info.

Not so good info.

You dont need longer brake lines for the rear or longer shocks. My first set up was a basic toytec coil spacer and AAL kit, using factory sr5 rear shocks and factory length brake lines...no issues for 2 years wheeling in southern Idaho.

You can get an AAL for the rear that will suit your needs just fine and they are priced pretty resonably. For the front I would just get the billy 5100's. LOTS of people on here run them and really like them

 

thx zombie!

 

I don't think stock shocks will reach? I have a 1st gen so that maybe the difference? But my shock mounts with AAL are 20" passenger and 16 on driver and the new KYB shocks I bought that is suppose to be good for a 2" lift is barely long enough. Only 1" of down travel.

 

im trying to figure out what surf spot you're talking about...

 

I'm sure you know it Tom. It's no secret...it's just how I park to get away from everybody that is the fun part.

 

nice

 

I lifted mine with spacers and blocks. Its OK. I like you, needed just a little more clearance for a couple of my favorite fishing spots and mines just a pre-runner. No serious wheeling. I also was on a budget. ORU spacer kit was only like 90 bucks shipped. BDS 2" blocks and u-bolts for 88 bucks and the stock shocks worked but, put BDS shocks on too for and extra 90 bucks. Hope this helps. I did order EMU driveshaft drop. Haven't put it on yet. Oh yeah I drive 75 miles round trip a day with no issues, except needing an alignment when I was done.

 

what is BDS and ORU?