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Another Chapter in the Not so Typical - Typical Lift

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Nick54, Jun 4, 2011.

  1. Jun 4, 2011 at 7:14 AM
    #1
    Nick54

    Nick54 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am beginning to get frustrated! This is my third attempt as trying to get good alignment numbers since I installed my lift. A little history
    I got the rear leaf TSB done which resulted in about 1.5" lift in the rear. I then purchased 265/70/17 DuraTracs on Procomp 7033's with 4.75 backspacing - they rubbed the rear wells.

    Next I purchased Bilsteins all around and set them at Zero, wraped them in Eibach coils and replaced the upper control arms with Light Racing UCA's set at the zero position which gives +2 deg. caster. This resulted in a 1.6 inch lift in front. Off to the alignment shop. I purchased a Firestone lifetime alignment and made an appointment. It didn't turn out so well and I don't have the numbers. So I then made a contact through TW and went for an alignment there. You can see the results here http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/158739-dude-tim-alignment.html. After several ball joint position changes and realignments the readings speak for themselves. I just want to say that the tech worked very hard and long at trying to get things right and I appreciate his effort.

    Yesterday I decided to rotate the ball joint further back toward the stock position selecting the "F" position which is -1.75 deg setting or +0.25 deg total arm + ball joint caster. The tires are still rubbing the rear of the well. The results of that alignment are posted.

    Questions:
    Do I, as some suggested rotate the ball joint to the "G" -2.0 deg or zero degree total arm + ball joint caster position and try to align again?

    Is there anyone in Ohio who has broad experience with this set up and alignment that would be willing to help?

    I am open to any and almost all suggestions. Please weigh in if you can see any error in my approach to this or have any suggestions.

    Thanks

    6-4-11 Alignment.jpg
     
  2. Jun 4, 2011 at 9:00 AM
    #2
    Fabulous

    Fabulous Well-Known Member

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    I think that you didn't need those LR UCAs at 1.6" and with the setting you have them at have way too much caster. I say put the ball joint setting on the furthest forward setting, or the one back from that (sorry, don't have my sheet in front of me). When I added my Eibachs to my 5100s set at 0.85 I ended up with 2.6" of lift, and was able to get my caster to about 2.0, so yours being at 1.6" on the neutral setting is overkill. When I added my LR UCAs on the neutral setting I was at almost the same caster you have, and it rubbed the back of the wheel well. I now have them set to 2.5 caster and it's perfect. Hopefully you can get things worked out. Let me know if you have any more ?
     
  3. Jun 4, 2011 at 9:05 AM
    #3
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    I agree with Fabian , you could have skipped the LR UCA's in your case .

    If you move them back to -2 or no additional caster , you should be able to get the alignment in spec with the stock adjustments
     
  4. Jun 4, 2011 at 9:06 AM
    #4
    Unknown

    Unknown He who angers you conquers you

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    stfu(jk)
     
  5. Jun 4, 2011 at 2:39 PM
    #5
    Nick54

    Nick54 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok guys "G" position which is -2.0 deg. or 0.0 ball joint position. I have this down to a 20 minute job, so I'll get it tomorrow after work and an alignment it shceduled for Wednesday.
     
  6. Jun 4, 2011 at 3:16 PM
    #6
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    What
     
  7. Jun 4, 2011 at 3:23 PM
    #7
    Nick54

    Nick54 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    IDK? I thought he was shootin for SNAFU. If not, maybe he'll chime back in and enlighten us.
     

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