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3" lift kit + 1" spacer possible?!?

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Old 08-01-2011, 02:38 PM   #1
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3" lift kit + 1" spacer possible?!?

So I have a question for the suspension gods. I am currently running Eibach springs up front, Toytec TSB AAL in back, and 5100's all around (front set to .85) for about 2+ inches of lift. I am quickly realizing that I need a little more lift. I am constantly rubbing when flexed (to the point I have worn through the little plastic buttons on the plastic fender flares and the rears are starting to pull off), rubbing when turned, hitting my cab mount, etc.
So idealy I would like 4-ish inches of lift. Is it possible to run like a pro-comp, or OME, or some other 3" lift and also a 1" spacer for a total of 4"? No one makes a 4" lift and 6" requires way to much money, cutting, and dosent really do it for me.

I know spacer lifts are the devil and in a perfect world i would avoid them like the plauge. I am just curious if it is possible to run both. I would think that if you can run both your ride shouldnt really be affected to much since you have good springs and shocks.

Just a curiosity question, please chime in with opinions and experiances!!!
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Old 08-01-2011, 02:40 PM   #2
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sees what you did there.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extremachn1 View Post
So I have a question for the suspension gods. I am currently running Eibach springs up front, Toytec TSB AAL in back, and 5100's all around (front set to .85) for about 2+ inches of lift. I am quickly realizing that I need a little more lift. I am constantly rubbing when flexed (to the point I have worn through the little plastic buttons on the plastic fender flares and the rears are starting to pull off), rubbing when turned, hitting my cab mount, etc.
So idealy I would like 4-ish inches of lift. Is it possible to run like a pro-comp, or OME, or some other 3" lift and also a 1" spacer for a total of 4"? No one makes a 4" lift and 6" requires way to much money, cutting, and dosent really do it for me.

I know spacer lifts are the devil and in a perfect world i would avoid them like the plauge. I am just curious if it is possible to run both. I would think that if you can run both your ride shouldnt really be affected to much since you have good springs and shocks.

Just a curiosity question, please chime in with opinions and experiances!!!
No you can't run anything on the front that gives you over 4" without a drop bracket, spindles, or SAS. It will ruin your ball joints and/or lead to a terrible ride with no down travel left in the shock.

What's the backspacing of your wheels and the size of your tires? Did you trim your fender well plastic and chop your cab mounts?
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Old 08-01-2011, 02:56 PM   #3
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My wheels are the TRD (Ivan man Stewert) wheels and I believe they are like 4.25-4.5" backspacing. I am running 285/75/16 BFG AT's.

I have not done the cap mount chop although its on the list of things to do, just have to find someone to do it. I have trimmed my fenders (front) although the inner fender has begun curling in towards to tire making it rub a lot (especially when I back up). I need to make a few brackets to hold that out of the way.

I plan on going with UCA's when I go with the 3" lift, wouldnt that help prevent damage to the ball joints? If they work with a 6" lift why wouldnt it work with a 4" lift? If you get shocks of the right length then there would be no problem with running out of shock travel.

I know on stock suspension a spacer lift rides like shit, but on higher end lifted suspension would the ride quality really go down that much, with adustable coil overs and shocks wouldnt this solve the problem?

So again, with UCA's, the right shocks, and some properly placed diff and driveline spacers, why isnt 3" lift + a 1" spacer doable?
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:12 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extremachn1 View Post
So again, with UCA's, the right shocks, and some properly placed diff and driveline spacers, why isnt 3" lift + a 1" spacer doable?
KPT already explaind it to you. If you doubt what he is telling you, then go do it and find out for yourself. Be sure to report back on how it goes
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extremachn1 View Post
I plan on going with UCA's when I go with the 3" lift, wouldnt that help prevent damage to the ball joints? If they work with a 6" lift why wouldnt it work with a 4" lift?
are you serious? how do you think a 6" lift works? just throw in a huge ass shock and call it good?
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:28 PM   #6
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I just noticed you have a 4x4. You can kiss your cv's goodbye if you go over 3" without a drop bracket.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:02 PM   #7
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Guys, I am not doubting I believe what you guys are telling me, I am jsut trying to get a little more explination than NO IT DOSENT WORK.

I questioned what he said about some stuff because I was curious why it worked for a 6" and not for what I was proposing. I have a general understanding what it takes for the 6" lift so no need to be a condesending twat with your awnsers!

If you notice I didnt bash him for his awnser so I would appreciate the same respect, I was jsut expanding on what he said with more questions, its called the pursuit of knowledge. Not everyone knows all and there is nothing wrong with trying to stimulate some good dialouge about builds and things you can and cant do.

I blow shit up for a living, not build trucks. I am still fairly new to the building of an offroad vehicle. If you want to know about motorcycles, I can tell you jsut about anything you want to know. Trucks, still learning so cut a guy some slack people.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:16 PM   #8
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here you go man, this might help.

http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=137
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:22 PM   #10
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Thanks Taco, that has some of the info I was looking for. I appreciate it.
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:09 PM   #11
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sees what you did there.
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In a nutshell, the issue with stacking lifts on an IFS is that you have a maximum down travel that the suspension will allow before you max out the travel on the UCA by roatating the LCA downward. The lifts I listed get around that in the following ways:
-Spindles keep the stock geometry but move the wheel hubs down.
- drop brackets lower your front crossmember, and therefore the mounting point for your control arms, down.
- sas removes the control arms and spindles altogether.
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:18 PM   #12
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Sweet KPT. I appreciate you taking the time to explain it out a bit more for me.
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:11 PM   #13
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Desert Rat did my cab mounts for $150. Also, UCA's will allow you to increase your caster so you're not rubbing on the rear fender well up front. I also did the pinch weld mod since I was still hitting that area when fully stuffed. Utility knife is your best friend......I cut everything it rubbed until it didn't run anymore, lol!

I can post some pics if you want?
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:35 PM   #14
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I would appreciate it if you would. I dont know of the pinch weld mod, I am going to do a search. I will have to talk with Desert Rat about the cab mount chop.
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:13 AM   #15
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Pinch weld was mainly for 1st gens but my tires woudn't stop rubbing it so I beat it up. It's hard as hell too......BFH time!
http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=9

I still think extra caster would have fixed it but too much and I was rubbing the front unless I had an aftermarket bumper.
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:21 AM   #16
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ok chas a 6 inch lift is a drop bracket, what that does is it drops your diff down lower so you can still have 4wd, but it takes away from your clearance.

rcd makes a 4 inch lift, but its also a drop bracket lift so it will take away from your clearance.

so yes you could out a spacer ontop of a 3 inch lift, but when you go over 3 inches you will start to tear your CV boots because the fins on them rub, next time i see you and i have my truck ill show you what i mean by fins rubbing, mine do on my truck because i have like 3.25in of lift and no diff drop

i hope this cleared it up a bit
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