DIY LCA Bushing Replacement 2005+ Tacoma (4x4)

A couple questions for the LCA masta...

On the fronts, once the bolt is out, do I pull out the Front Suspension Toe adjust cam sub-assembly (commonly called the sleeve) and grease that too? Or am I just greasing the bolt which goes into the sleeve?

Feel free to comment on any of my questions below as well. Thanks in advance.

I know you have done this before so I trust it works. I'm just trying to understand this better and I was concerned about the bolts being load bearing. Are the bolts load bearing?

If they are, then removing them while not jacked up may add unnecessary stresses to the other bolted LCA bushing joint? Also to make matters more confusing for me, does the sleeve in the front bear the load where the bolt does not?

I may use Boyd's method above, but I wanted to hear your answers.

Thanks in advance.

 

i have pulled my bolts out while jacked up and while under load
yes they are load bearing as they hold the control arm to the frame
yes pull the sleeve and bolts out one at a time and clean and grease everything
then reassemble
no need to unbolt shocks or anything else

 

No problem. Good luck!

Very interesting method you got there. Jacking up my truck takes all of 3 minutes utilizing the IFS skid and removing the lower shock bolt another 2 minutes. Not sure why you would skip those steps to unbolt something that has pressure on it, but if it works who am I to judge.

 

Thank you to the both of you for elaborating further. It's very helpful to my understanding. I will try and give it a go this weekend. I live in a fairly arid climate with no salted roads and have only swamped the truck a couple of times, but with 4 years of weather exposure who the hell knows... Anyways I got my breaker bar ready. I'll post back how it goes and may include some pictures for posterity on what 4-year old bolts look like from San Diego weather.

 

I tried using a breaker bar on the Cam sleeve in the front to see if I could break the sleeve loose from the rust (26mm Socket) on the passenger side snapped the plate right off the sleeve. I then tried an impact gun on the driver side hoping the reciprocating motion of the impact would make a difference. It didn't, snapped that one off too.

Lesson, if you plan on keeping your sleeves on the front (or don't have replacement parts), do not use a breaker bar on them (this is for after you've already taken the front bolt out).

 

the sleeves are only attached to the cam as a press fit
they are made to come apart.....
one side is a hex "rear"
and the front is like a spline.....
take the cams off and hit it throught with a hammer and punch

 

dont know why you would unbolt the shock tower
for what purpose?

 

I wouldn't. I would unbolt the lower shock mount to release stress.

It's one bolt.

Depending on what shocks you have you may not need to, but unlike you and your 4" of lift I still have down travel left in my shocks so when they are unbolted they push down

 

Any conclusion on the MOOG rear bolt issue ?

 

Yea, Moog fucked up.

 

So only the fronts fit , and you only get one front per kit meaning you gotta buy 2 kits to get both fronts , correct ?

 

Correct. I got the rear bolts from the dealer.

 

Sounds like you can buy one kit and do both fronts from what I'm reading . I really haven't been paying attention. I never buy newly released parts or for that matter anything newly released. Let others be the lab rats. Even in my first post when Scott found them weeks ago I said I'd wait till spring and see how his were doing.

+ my cams and bolts are only 2 years old with maybe have 20k on them

 

He said lower shock mount. And I checked and what he described is actually textbook repair from the FSM. And that's a good thing! Attached as PDF if anybody cares. I'm glad I asked this only because I want to make sure I do shit correctly and safely.

 

If you met him or saw his truck you would understand he has zero issues doing what he told you. He literally almost killed me 2 weekends ago while sitting passenger in his truck while driving offroad

No need to remove the steering stop or per Toyota the "front lower ball joint attachment". That's just silly.

 

No. For some reason the back bolt they send you is a good 1/4" different in diameter. Two kits = four bolts = two useful front bolts and two shiny new paper weights.

I posted some pictures of the new bolts a few posts back.

 

TALKING OUT OF YOUR ASS AGAIN AS USUAL....

have never done that..and i have done a few members on here trucks as well am mine a whole lot more then i carred to......
all i am telling people is how i do it
i think most people here over engineer allot......
that being said
its your trucks do what u fell comfortable with

VVVVVV

this^^^^^

yup kinda silly.....
it was worth a shot.....i had to try it.......
but like i said if you grease them STOCKERS nice before they seize i see no issues.....

2 kits.......

see above
do as you wish
just a fyi
the field service manual has its own issues i will not get into here
but yes it makes a decent guide........
i think you are making way more of this then needed......
good luck

 

what does that have to do with anything.....
and second wasn't my fault i didn't plunge us into complete darkness
plus it was only your side
has nothing to do with anything

like said earlier
i have done joshs truck in a parking lot, stckers, ect
by jacking, unbolting, removing, greasing, replacing......done
with zero issues

 

BOTTOM LINE IS MOOG BUSHING = GOOD
SO YOUR SAVING ALMOST $150 RIGHT THERE.....
TIME WILL TELL HOW THEY HOLD UP....
BUT FOR FITMENT = PERFECT....

BOLT KIT NOT SO MUCH.....
HOPEFULLY THEY WILL FIX IT SOON AND THEN WE WILL BE ALL SET......

NOW SOMEONE NEEDS TO TRY BOYDS WHITELINE OR WHATEVER BUSHINGS.....
WHOS UP?????????