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What type of UCA

View Poll Results: Which UCA for best quality / performance / value
Camburg Performance 1.25″ Uniball Upper Arms $700 3 11.11%
Camburg Performance Ball Joint Upper Arms $400 3 11.11%
Total Chaos 1" Uniball Upper Arms $650 9 33.33%
Light Racing Upper Control Arms Ball Joint $450 12 44.44%
Voters: 27. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 09-19-2011, 09:43 AM   #1
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What type of UCA

Planning for my upcoming lift, getting OME 886 full kit. Just wondering what best quality and value for UCA. I am not opposed to spending the money, I just want to figure out which of these is the best for the money.
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:31 AM   #2
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OZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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I have the full OME lift kit , but with the 885x springs , I went with LR UCA's because for my winter driving conditions , I wanted a sealed balljoint .
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:40 AM   #3
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If you wheel hard and need as much wheel travel as possible, go with the uniball option. Otherwise you'll be well-served by the Light Racing ball joint UCAs. Practically no maintenance with those things compared to uniballs.
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:41 AM   #4
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LR FTW
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:09 PM   #5
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Old 09-19-2011, 05:35 PM   #6
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Uniballs, pick a color. The extra travel is worth it, not to mention them being a much stronger joint compared to ball joints.
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Old 09-19-2011, 05:36 PM   #7
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Camburg or TC.

I have the Camburg ball joint uca's with geasable Moog ball joints. They've handled everything i've thrown at them so far and they allowed my truck to be aligned correctly.

Go uni if you have the money tho.
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Old 09-19-2011, 05:48 PM   #8
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The 1.25" uniball UCAs provide more travel than the 1.0" uniball or ball joint UCAs.

UCAs by geometry see far less load than LCAs. Unless the arm physically hit a rock, strength is not an issue with any of the UCAs. The ball joint boot, though, can tear easily. I tore the boot in one of my swaybar links while installing the lift; never figured out how it happened.

If you go with uniball, be sure the uniball is stainless steel. It'll last longer in corrosive environments.
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Old 09-19-2011, 05:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenLyns View Post
The 1.25" uniball UCAs provide more travel than the 1.0" uniball or ball joint UCAs.

UCAs by geometry see far less load than LCAs, so strength is not an issue with any of the UCAs. The ball joint boot, though, can tear easily. I tore the boot in one of my swaybar links while installing the lift; never figured out how it happened.

If you go with uniball, be sure the uniball is stainless steel.
Chrome steel UBs work fine in non-rust-belt environments.

As far as larger uniballs offering more droop, I'm not convinced on that. I think it's very very configuration sensitive.
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Old 09-19-2011, 05:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post

As far as larger uniballs offering more droop, I'm not convinced on that. I think it's very very configuration sensitive.
x2. I hear the 1.25" Camburgs hit the coils at full droop.
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Old 09-19-2011, 05:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacomanator View Post
x2. I hear the 1.25" Camburgs hit the coils at full droop.
Yeah. Assuming everything else is equal and they have the clearance to droop fully, I can see how the math works. I'm not convinced that ever takes place in the real world; or, if it does, that it does for everyone to an equal extent.
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Old 09-19-2011, 06:04 PM   #13
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My 1.25" All-Pro UCAs don't hit the coils (Icon Extended Travel) at full droop. I can also see the bearing race getting very close to the conical spacer neck. I believe a 1.0" uniball would bind in my situation.
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Old 09-19-2011, 06:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenLyns View Post
My 1.25" All-Pro UCAs don't hit the coils (Icon Extended Travel) at full droop. I can also see the bearing race getting very close to the conical spacer neck. I believe a 1.0" uniball would bind in my situation.
What's actually binding to stop your droop? Because I have extended travel Icons as well, and my 1" TC UCAs do not bind at full droop. The shock bottoms out first.
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:07 PM   #15
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The shock is bottoming out in my case, too. You may be right. Or there may be more travel available in my UCAs (good for a 1/4" trim spacer perhaps).
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:20 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenLyns View Post
The shock is bottoming out in my case, too. You may be right. Or there may be more travel available in my UCAs (good for a 1/4" trim spacer perhaps).
Quite possible.
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:55 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OZ-T View Post
I have the full OME lift kit , but with the 885x springs , I went with LR UCA's because for my winter driving conditions , I wanted a sealed balljoint .
I made the same decision at OZ , uniballs have too much exposure to run on salted roads
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:44 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post
Yeah. Assuming everything else is equal and they have the clearance to droop fully, I can see how the math works. I'm not convinced that ever takes place in the real world; or, if it does, that it does for everyone to an equal extent.
On our trucks the additional wheel travel comes on compression, not droop, and requires that the bumpstop be modified to take full advantage of the 1.25" uniball. Almost a necessity when running jounce shocks, but it'll never be used with the stock bumps.
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:36 PM   #19
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I put LR UCAs on my Taco. Like others, I needed a "protected" ball joint, as they salt the crap out of our roads during winter in St. Louis.
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Old 09-25-2011, 07:41 AM   #20
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I have Light Racing for the sealed ball joint in poor weather. No complaints
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