Lift help please

Ok i have the OME lift kit with the 886 coils on the front and the AAL on the back i want to lift it a little more with the Daystarr 2.5 strutt spacers on the front and blocks on the back my question is will the spacer work with the OME coils if not where can i find some that will

 

How much lift are you already getting?
Stacking lifts is not a good thing. too much lift destroys your suspension.

If you want more lift, you're going to have to move to DB lifts

 

its already about 3 inchs i just want a little higher the front is all coilspring im just wanting to put a coil spacer on it

 

anything more than 3" is going to put too much strain on various different parts of your suspension, and you'll need new UCA's to keep it aligned
and this will happen, a lot.


if you really want more lift, try looking at RCD's 4.5" lift, or a 6". Anything higher requires dropped brackets

 

ive got LR UCAs on it already and are you talking about a diff drop

 

no. Look up dropped bracket lifts. Basically, they lift the truck while keeping the differential the same height- all the trucks you see that are sky high are dropped bracket lifts.

 

I'm really not a fan of those OME coil kits. They leave that upper ball joint at such a horrible angle at ride height and take all the droop out of the suspension. Ever look into spindles?

 

yeah i see what your talking about now i looked at the RCD one but i just got the OME lift so im gonna nix this project for now and wait till a few 100000 miles and i different daily driver vehicle before i do that ill just stick with what i got that RCD is kind of pricey how much was the fabtech one

 

Spindles, i.e. drop down kit. I hate 4wd IFS, unless you have ridiculous money you'll always be stuck with a drop down, which in terms of
off-roadability is like shooting yourself in the foot.

 

I like the ome kit its seems pretty good drives good i have the LR UCAs and the ball joints dont seem to be to bad of an angle

 

ome is a great kit ive wheeled so tough shit with guys that have that lift and it flexs and rides great cant go wrong with ome....youy got a great susp. OP but like said none of us 4wd can go over 3in without big probles or drop brackest

 

You can get over 3" without a drop bracket.

But be prepared for expense (parts alone will be around 3 to 4 grand) and adding some new stuff to your regular maintenance schedule (re-booting CV axles).

Long travel is also an option if you're OK spend into the 5 grand range. Won't get you much more height, but will give you more suspension flex.

If you really want to get above 3" and maintain the best offroad ability, it's time to start looking at axle swaps.

 

Keep cranking the coilovers up. Get higher rate springs. Eventually you will run into a limiting factor (LCA balljoint binding, CV axle binding, Downtravel). It's not like anything is maxed out at three inches of lift, especially if you do it right with extended travel coilovers and uniball UCAs.

 

well said...

 

"Correct" way to lift depends on the application. I feel like it's a perfectly acceptable way to lift my truck because it's primarily a wheeling toy and I have a separate car for daily driving.

Aside from that, I never made any mention of what I think is a "correct" or "incorrect" way to lift. I was simply pointing out what is possible and what the consequences will be on our second generation Tacomas.

Using what method? Spacers? I would never lift AT ALL and leave the stock suspension in place. Which is why mine has been entirely replaced.

Then do your homework!

I'll be running 4" of front lift in the not-too-distant future, without a drop bracket, and my only consequence will be regular CV boot replacement. No big deal. (Also, this is questionable - we'll likely be re-booting with a spacer in place to prevent fin-rub in the future, eliminating boot tears from rub. Boot tears from flex may still be possible).


Yes, if you half-ass and try to go above three inches leaving stock components in place you're going to end up with a shitty setup, but that's a given any time someone cheaps out.

ANYWAY, none of this is here nor there because the point I was making was this and this only:

If anyone is worried about breakage or maintenance on their truck, they shouldn't be lifting at all. If I break something, I'll fix it. It's not a big deal. Vehicle repair has been an industry for like...oh, 100 or so years now.

The reason it's conventional wisdom on here that it's not possible to lift a 4x4 above 3" without a drop bracket is because most people on here are shopping for something they can have installed by the local mechanic so they look cool pulling out of the high school parking lot on Friday afternoon. There are other communities with different uses for their vehicles that have a far broader catalog of what is "OK" to do.

 

If you bought your IFS 4wd Tacoma as a wheeling toy, then that was your first mistake. They can be great for the occasional outing for those not in a position to afford a secondary vehicle and looking for a little bit of fun, but in terms of "wheeling" as defined by a true "wheeling" enthusiast they are extremely hampered by their design. If you truely want to go "wheeling" get something with a solid axle. Secondly, if you are attempting to take your IFS front-end "wheeling" and have created a situation in your geometry where as you find yourself replacing CV boots on the regular, I can guarantee you'll be replacing more than that. Consistent wear on your boots should be your first sign that you are exceeding the designed range of motion and with those high angle on the CV's you're sure to snap one with a reasonable amount of torque. You talk about people half assing and then go further to say that you've created a situation where you know you're gonna go through parts. If that's not contradictory I don't know what is. Sure you should expect to replace parts if your gonna be hard on your vehicle, but never because you chicken-shit something together. The point of a quality lift is that you don't have to replace parts, if you do, then the lift is crap.
Either way, the attitude is uncalled for.

 

I've heard this argument about 10 times before. I wanted a truck that was offroad capable, not a truggy, not a trailer rig, etc. etc. etc.

I said "primarily" a wheeling rig, not "solely" a wheeling rig. It gets plenty of use towing, hauling and transporting people. I have a Corolla for a daily driver, but moving furniture, mulch, lumber, and other bulky/heavy shit is notoriously difficult with a compact econobox.

You might notice in my first post I mentioned solid axle swap as an option.

But then what kind of wheeling are you referring to? Solid axle setups suck for high speed dune bashing and desert racing. So if you truly want to wheel you need a....??

You can always customize to a niche application. I want the truck to be capable everywhere and understand this means it will be master of none of them.

Actually not. It's a well known issue with the way Toyota clamped the boots on the CV axles of the truck and has to do with friction between the boot fins. The actual CV hardware is not under any additional stress.

It's also an easily remedied issue with placement of a spacer during axle re-booting, which is exactly what will happen when necessary.

Right, Icon extended coilovers, TC Arms, Dakar Leafs, and Icon RR shocks are all known to be crap

Look around on various Toyota/Tacoma sites. You'll see horrible reviews for all of them.

You're missing the forest for the trees: Running 3.5" to 4" on a mid-travel setup with coilovers will kill exactly one set of CV boots early. Once that set is replaced with a spacer in situ, there will be no further issues other than the standard wear and tear from hard use.

Is it half-assing to run that setup with stock CVs? Not really, as the only option for increased travel is the weaker RCV ultimate CV axles (and if you think they're actually stronger than the ToMoCo OEM units, try again), or long travel kits which widen track length, something I do not want.

Or, then, I could go solid axle, but I'm not interested in spending 12 grand right this second. Maybe some day.

It becomes very necessary when answering posts like these. What's the next claim gonna be? That people wheeling their trucks shouldn't use upsized tires because it increases risk of driveline breakage? Give it a rest. When you're modifying away from stock, you get to do what you want and deal with the consequences. If people are willing to re-boot some CV axles, they can easily get above 3" of lift out of a quality coilover midtravel suspension. If they aren't willing, well, that's their problem. If they aren't able, well, they shouldn't be allowed off pavement.

Hell, even 3" of lift isn't trouble free in these trucks: diff bearings growling, driveline vibes and shudder, all just the same type of trouble that comes from messing with the hard hard work Toyota's engineers put in for years when designing the truck.

BJmoose got it right in a post about a year ago: When you modify away from stock, the results and consequences are yours. What is "right" becomes highly subjective. No whining either way.

 

Pictured above is true wheeling and like I said a true enthusiast should know the difference. No one going out to the dunes or desert to run at high speed refers to it as "wheeling". So your tacoma isn't going to have issues with the CV's binding in a situation picture above? Ok. The problem doesnt come from running around at ride height, it rears its ugly head when you have one side drooped out with a setup that already creates a bad angle, apply torque... pop..clickity klack. As a true enthusiast I'm sure you've heard of King of the Hammers where they run high speed desert stuff and rock crawl, well they are jacks of both trades and while I don't really follow their sport, every rig I've even seen has had straight axles. So go figure. I appluad your use of high quality parts, but uni-ball uca's should be recommend even if it was going to be a road queen because of the poor upper ball joint angle at ride height that your set up would create. Long story short, if you wanna do it right; you're gonna spend more than 3 or 4 grand, straight axle or not.