Grinding noise after lift

I don't think the type of leaves themselves matter. It is just the lift height that matters so I would say yes you would still get the noises. I believe this particular problem is only being seen mostly in regular cabs.

 

Sorry I'm trying to do ten different things I have a 2001 Tacoma regular cab an I wa interested in getting the complete all pro lift with the 5100's and ebachi coils(spelling) and the front diff drop and in the rear new leafs(not a aal)3 inch with new shocks and everything and why I'm trying to get it will I have all the problems after lifting like others or is it thug where you gotta lift it to find out

 

You should try re-reading your posts before you push "submit," including punctuation, and correct spelling. It's hard to understand what you are trying to say when you don't separate your thoughts, or even use the correct words.

Edit: If you don't have time to make a coherent post, then wait until you do, you're just wasting bandwidth when you ramble and we have to ask what you are saying.

 

Some need the front diff drop and some don't. I did not. I would pretty much guarantee you will get the problem this thread is about (or supposed to be about) haha. Nothing is for sure though so yes you would just have to lift it and find out.

 

2nd gens don't need a diff drop, hes a first gen.

 

Thanks for that. I didn't pay attention to details. I haven't ate lunch yet

 

I will correct my previous post then by saying I am not sure if you will get this grinding noise with a first gen. I don't know why but I saw 2010 instead of 2001 in your post. I would still say lift it and find out though. Also there is alot of info on here about lift problems and what not you just have to search for it. Good luck!

 

I'm sorry guys I was under the influence of no sleep ha working 12 hours then trying to Tacoma world it up not a good idea. But what I was trying to say is that I have a 2001 regular cab and I planed to lift it untill now this post has me on edge. I was going to get the all pro lift 3inch all the way around with new leafs in the rear and shocks basically all new supension parts and I didn't know it a AAl and complete lift leafs made a difference? It makes me not want to spend the money. But I do apologise for all the confusing posts above

 

The short answer is, you won't know until you try it.

The long answer... well I wrote the following in another similar thread. But the question was roughly the same: after considering the possible consequences, should I make this modification?

It's a mental attitude thing. Once you've left the realm of "factory stock" you're now in the land of customizer-tinkerer. Your friends will say: "Wow, I'd never have the confidence to do _that_ (whatever it is you're working on) to my car!"

But every vehicle ever manufactured is a compromise, trading off a variety of things one against the other.

cost vs. comfort
power vs. fuel economy
on road vs. off road
reliability vs. performance

Every one of those tradeoffs was made by a big engineering staff after getting the input from the marketing and legal department.

Start modifying that mix and you're on your own now, baby. Well - almost alone - you get to ask for a little help here from the TW community.

But now you're the one in charge. You're optimizing for some aspects of your enjoyment, at the expense of others.

Typically, economy and reliability are now getting the short end of the stick, with performance (either on or off road) and style on the receiving end of the improvements.

Lift your truck, and you're likely exceeding the design operating angle at speed of the stock driveshaft. That almost _always_ leads to minor vibrations. (But if they're MAJOR, you've done something wrong, and you will need to keep tweaking until it's adjusted out)

Worth it? Dunno. Up to you.

You'll proably wear out driveshaft U-Joints sooner. Before, you had better than 50/50 that they'd last the life of the truck. Now those odds aren't so good. Same thing with front axle CV boots.

Every time you tweak something, you increase the chance of unintended consequences. Shortly after I put a mondo-custom-stereo into my brand-spankin-new 2001 Dodge Intrepid, the Body-Control-Module shorted out. Thing spent two weeks in the shop and I got a $1500 bill from the dealer -- Warranty Coverage Denied. Was it cause or coincidence? THEY said cause, but I sure dunno, and never will.

Closer to home, when I lifted my regular cab, I tweaked the install twice until I'd shimmed it to minimize my driveline vibe experience. It could be better - but only if I got a custom double-cardan driveshaft with a CV joint. And really, it's minor enough that I don't notice it unless I'm looking for it.

When I pulled my instrument cluster so Seth could change the LEDs, the mail was delayed and I started to fear that it had been lost in the mail. I asked the dealer about replacement cost, there was a misunderstanding and for a couple minutes I thought the replacement cost was over $2000! (turns out it's actually around 300.) Also, it was delivered soon after and not lost in the mail after all. But the uncertainty increased my stress, you know?

Where am I going with this? Only *you* know if it's worth it to mod away from stock. Every modification is a cast of the dice. Will it do what you want? Will you like it? Will there be unintended consequences?

It sometimes happens that in home remodeling, folks get what they want, but only after so much stress that they can't enjoy being in the home -- everything they look at only serves to remind them of all the hassles that were involved in getting it that way.

Your life. Your risk. Your call.

 

believe it or not i don't have any vibes what so ever or any anomalies that i ever noticed with my lift.when they first installed it my truck sat well over 4.5 inches up from where it was! if anybody had vibes i thought it would be me lol

as a matter of fact besides the ball joint being installed backwards on my lr uca's the lift has been fine the cv angles are still a little sketchy imo but, now with the winch up front i think things are going to settle down a bit up front.

however when the ball joint was installed backwards that did lead to some very strange noises. creaking and thumps and squeaking where common until i had them straighten out my alignment and fix the ball joint.

i hope you sort it out op the billies are supposed to ride a little better than the stock set-up and provide you with more ground clearance it would suck to see you tear them out right after you put them in.

 

well put sir, as usual

 

That's crazy. Mine isn't driving me nuts or anything but i'd sure like the noise gone. If you got the 3" kit listed on there site now it even say's not recommended for regular cabs. Go figure. Glad someone is not having the noise issues. I have been seeing all your post on your headlights so maybe it's just good luck for having to deal with all the headlight problems.

 

They only put up that caveat AFTER Hans flamed them so hard.

 

Come on..

Somebody who has the noise flip the driveline around so we can know once and for all that the noise can't be heard anymore after flipping.

I would do it but I'm way too lazy!

 

I will do it if someone can point me in the right direction. Will I have to drain any fluids to do this? I have read all I will need is two 14mm wrenches and 30 minutes but I don't want to jump into anything.

 

Found some pics of where someone flipped theres. Still open to any info regard actually doing this.

 

It's pretty easy.

Mark one bolt hole on each end so it's the same orientation.


Just support both ends after it's unbolted so you don't bend the u joints past their max angle as you remove it.

Once it's unbolted, it'll need a tap from the hammer to let go.

 

Ok. Am I actually taking the round plate on each end of the shaft off? Or half of the U-joint? A apologize for my ignorance but I haven't actually looked under there closely at it. It may be self explanitory once I get off of work and am able to look at it. I'm just going by this guys pics.

 

The flange is attached to the pinion and stays there.

Theres a smaller flange attached to each u joint that can come off when you remove the four bolts from each end.

It will be obvious when you see it.

 

Thanks. I may take a bunch of pics and do a writeup on it.