Rear Leaf Install...

Guys,

I've done 3 different searches and I can't find any write ups.

I got my All-Pro leafs and Eibach front coils.

The fronts are easy for me, but I was just wondering how hard it is to install the rear leafs?

Are there any write-ups out there?

Any help would be appreciated.



AlSO, I have 5100's on the front, and am planning on dropping them to 0' with the Eibach coils. Should this keep me level with the All-Pro Standard 3" leafs?

Or should I set the 5100's to 1" to compensate for the OEM lower front.


Thanks in advance!

 

Are you sure your searches were in this forum ??

I've got a couple threads in regards to rear leaf spring rebuilds/installs/1st gen/2nd gen etc;

Anyway the Eibachs with the 1st gen adustable 5100's set at 0 will give you 3" of lift in front..

leaf spring R&R's are pretty straight forward, much easier on a 1st gen mainly because of the rear shackle hassle the 2nd gens have, but you'll need jack stands, at least one floor jack (pre. 2) 1 jack under the rear diff & 1 right under the yoke where it connects to the drive shaft (because the diff. is going to want to roll forward on you when everything is loose & you lower jack to seperate the axle from leaf spring) or you can mark a bolt & flange where the yoke & shaft bolt together this marks original location for balance when you re attach, I can do all this by myself but its better to have 2 people doing it ( Although sometimes when a member comes to OMD for a susp. lift you may end up with 10 guys , 2 or 3 empty pizza boxes, & a pile of empty aluminum beverage containers if ya know what I mean

 

You literally unbolt the old ones, and bolt the new ones in. I started a thread jut like this one for help. And it's really easy, just put some jacks under your axle so it doesn't drop to the floor. Done!

 

How did you search?

http://www.lieblweb.com/cornbredlift.html

Scroll down to the rear lift section.........this is an AAL install but will give you an idea of what to do.

 

This is perfect, thank you!

 

If you have no problem with the front ones, the back ones are cake.

 

Just one question....

In the above write up, they did not disconnect the yoke/shaft.

Do I need to do this?

 

Not at all

 

Not at all....
Just be careful when you drop the axle. Keep an eye on your brake lines and slip yoke. You don't want to drop the axle too far or else damage/break the brake lines or pull the yoke out.

Do one side at a time.

 

It took me longer to do my AAL but the reason why was because we didn't have the proper tools to compress the leaf pack to screw the bolt back on. but like everybody said keep a jack under the axel and do one side at a time.

 

I included 2 ways to do it with the drive shaft on (using 2 floor jacks)

or dropping drive shaft (marking the flange where shaft & yoke bolt up so it goes back together the way it was originally)

 

Thanks 4WD! I got a second set of jack stands, so that will help.


Does anyone know if I'll need new u-bolts with the 3" All-Pro's?

I got everything I believe I needed today for tomorrow's install. I'm just worried I'll have it all off and realize I need new U-bolts because of length.

 

They do recommend new U-bolts whenever you do spring work.
It's a mission-critical part where if it fails you could lose control of the vehicle.

In my reality if the old bolts still look good and are long enough for the new spring, I'll reuse and re-torque after a couple hundred miles.
Can't recommend it though.

 

I have mine 85 % torn apart. need to get 10 flare wench before going any further. I called ALLPRO to ask about u-bolts and was told that I Need longer ones.I was told to get ahold of 4 wheel parts to get longer ones. It looks like all my work today was for not. They have to order the longer u-bolts.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

This is pretty much the size of it, Always best when re doing springs but I've had my stock ones off & on several times & will always re use as long as the thread stretch isn't too bad.

OP, you may or may not need longer U bolts, if you dump the overload spring I'd say you're good 2 go...

Did you remember extended brake line/lines ??

 

Sounds like he's doing brake lines if he's running out to pick up a 10mm flare wrench. BTW, you can break those fittings with a pair of vise grips

 

Or maybe he's just disconnecting the lines to drop axle

 

Some of these shops carry a lame excuse for a leaf spring U-bolt.
With their coarse thread and short, common nuts I often wonder what grade they really are.

Most bona fide spring shops will bend U-bolts for you on the spot.
And they will be the real ones.

 

Let him use the flare nut wrench.
Nothin' worse than finding a flare nut that has been rounded out by someone with a pair of pliers
Even an open end will fuk 'em up.

 

Sorry OP( yo taco 98 ) for the h/j sounds like were doing the same thing on the same day. See poll I just started about the use of a Axel shim Maybe helpful or just add to the confusion.