2012 lift install help please!

I got a strap. I will give that a shot. I should have done this upgrade at the M&G huh ajohnson! LOL

 

Is the nut on tight? You should be able to crank on it some more with a socket to pull it down

 

So I tried the strap and a block of wood w/floor rack. No luck although I got closer just not close enough. Any other ideas

 

you've got the nut on the threads right? Looks like it in the pic.

 

yeah I have torqued the nut down as far as I can!

 

what do you guys think about a smaller castle nut?

 

What ft lbs is as far as you can? When I did mine it wasnt easy but once the nut was threaded I just cranked on it a good bit.

Set your torque wrench to 100 and see if it clicks. If it does then idk what to tell you besides strapping/jacking them together. If it aint clicking then keep turning.

 

You need to keep pressure on the ball joint going inside the tapered hole of the spindle to keep it from spinning. Try pushing the UCA down onto the spindle with your bottle jack against the top of the inner fender, just use care that it doesn't slip off and hurt you. Eventually the ball joint will get tight enough to stop spinning and you need to torgue it to atleast 45 ft-lbs.

 

This.

As far as getting that bolt through I've done my LR UCAs twice on each side. Each time I used channel locks to pull the sheet metal out and then just beat the bolt out with a punch from the other side.

That gap should be fine once you use all washer provided PLUS stock washers and torque the UCA bolt. Don't forget, only torque it once it's sitting on its own weight.

 

did yall ditch the sway bar?

 

Yes i did, with the coilovers it doesnt "feel" any different. Some guys leave them some take them off

 

I did like 20k miles ago but I have stiff 886 coils.

 

id you cant get the old bolt out, how are you going to get a new one in without cutting the fender?

 

The factory inserts the bolts through the front of each mount. When reinstalling you can push them in from the rear. There is a lot more room on the back of the coil buckets.

I used channel locks to bend the sheet metal enough to get the factory bolts out and reinsert them through the rear of the mounts.

 

oh ok cool. Thanks.

 

Alright I got the factory cotter pin in with a ton of sweating! I am going to ditch the sway bar for now! Thanks for the help guys. Anyone know a good alignment place for tacoma around raleigh fayetteville or goldsboro area? Also, anyone know the torque spec for the steering knuckle?

 

Good job man. It can be a PITA. Make sure to torgue it when its back on the wheels and retorgue everything after 100 miles.

Oh, and the long mounting bolts need to be torqued at ride height, otherwise you will tear the rubbing bushings.

 

118 ft lbs for the two lower 19mm bolts holding the LCA balljoint to the knuckle. 45 ft lbs for the upper ball joint to knuckle, then enough to get the cotter pin through. 150 ft lbs for the LR UCA ball joint jam nut. 85 ft lbs for the UCA to the frame bolt/nut.

I'll say it again, the UCA to frame bolts need to be torqued only when the truck is sitting on it's own weight, just tighten them up a little to let the truck down.

 

I got everything together for the front lift last night! Thanks for the help. I am starting the back today which includes billy 5125 and icon 3 leaf progressive retaining the overload leaf!!!! Any helpful hints would be great. Thanks again

 

I'm a mechanic what I've always done is got a pry bar under the uca then back to the top of the strut an push up then use my impact an tighten it always works for me