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Old 07-22-2012, 11:52 AM   #1
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keep breaxing cv axles.

Hey guys,
I have an 07 4x4, 3" lift, 33's and diff drop. and almost every time I go wheeling I end up breaking a cv shaft. Yes they are cheap to replace but its getting kinda old.

My question is do I buy the rcv shafts and an arb locker for 3 grand. Or buy a 44 and sas the thing, probably spending closer to 6k for a basic leaf sprung setup..
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:54 AM   #2
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I assume you are breaking cheap Vatozone axles and not OEM? I hear that anything but OEM and RCV is weak.

SAS is a completely different beast though.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:56 AM   #3
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First one was own and the second was oreilly
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:59 AM   #4
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How are you breaking them? What conditions? Like Whipper said what brand? What shocks?

Throttle control is key, but I fully understand the need for speed myself being Open/LSD. I have one starting to finally go, but I have 84K on my truck and have been beating it pretty good since day 1.

A rear locker will help take stress off the front in some conditions, but most likely youll just try harder obstacles.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:59 AM   #5
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sounds more like you need to learn to drive offroad


not being mean, but i've only broken CVs when I do something stupid...like lock the wheels one way or another with at least one bound up...and then gas it a bit too hard
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:48 PM   #6
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Hey no offense taken I am a bit new at wheeling. First one was def my fault, crawling over a rock front end started hopping and snapped the outer joint. Last one I was turned passenger, with the wheel stuffed pretty hard, it just pulled the outer joint apart, dropping the ball bearings. I probably do need some pointers here but I'm planning on bumping up to 35's and don't want to change a shaft every time I'm on the trail.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:52 PM   #7
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sas
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superwhite View Post
Hey no offense taken I am a bit new at wheeling. First one was def my fault, crawling over a rock front end started hopping and snapped the outer joint. Last one I was turned passenger, with the wheel stuffed pretty hard, it just pulled the outer joint apart, dropping the ball bearings. I probably do need some pointers here but I'm planning on bumping up to 35's and don't want to change a shaft every time I'm on the trail.
throttle control...ESPECIALLY when there is ANY binding on the front wheels and theyre turned
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Old 07-22-2012, 01:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerfan00 View Post
throttle control...ESPECIALLY when there is ANY binding on the front wheels and theyre turned
Gotcha, I was kinda suprised when it happened, hardly on the gas at all. I think a rear locker would have helped a lot cause once I aired down to 10 psi and got a slight tug from a buddy, I was able to get right out in 2wd.

What do you guys think about mechanical lockers for the rear end? I have the sport axle with LSD.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:18 AM   #10
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Wait what 3inch lift set up are your running in front? After 2inchs I think your more inclined to break stuff if not done right.
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superwhite View Post
Gotcha, I was kinda suprised when it happened, hardly on the gas at all. I think a rear locker would have helped a lot cause once I aired down to 10 psi and got a slight tug from a buddy, I was able to get right out in 2wd.

What do you guys think about mechanical lockers for the rear end? I have the sport axle with LSD.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSU Taco85 View Post
Why would having more lift have anything to do with breaking CVs more often

OP don't buy the cheapo CV shafts that's why they are breaking

Simple geometry. CV is the strongest when at 180*. When you droop or jack the shit out of it and at extreme angles it will bind and blow up. Same reason you can't turn your front wheels with a locker unless you want them to explode.
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:22 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by PSU Taco85 View Post
Hmm maybe that makes sense I dunno. It would seem Toyota would design the thing for a certain range of operation. Since you're still within that acceptable range even with a lift installed there would be no ill effects? Maybe I'm out to lunch

Some lifts are poorly designed and go way past the 'acceptable range'. I have seen some set ups that should have limit straps on them and at full droop actually hit the LCA shock mount. Any gears at extreme angles will bind and break.

That's why one of my first questions was which shock does OP have.
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:27 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Some lifts are poorly designed and go way past the 'acceptable range'. I have seen some set ups that should have limit straps on them and at full droop actually hit the LCA shock mount. Any gears at extreme angles will bind and break.

That's why one of my first questions was which shock does OP have.
I have a 5100 lift with small spacer to correct the taxi lean. I know I need limit straps, when fully drooped, the uniball cup hits the coil. Guess that's the downside to running no sway bar.
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:31 AM   #14
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that sucks. I have 33s and I am super heavy on the skinny pedal going up some gnarly stuff and I'm surprised I haven't broken an axle (knock on wood). I mean seriously, I am super hard on my components with wheel hop and everything. It must be that the OEM axles are the best.
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:37 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by especk View Post
that sucks. I have 33s and I am super heavy on the skinny pedal going up some gnarly stuff and I'm surprised I haven't broken an axle (knock on wood). I mean seriously, I am super hard on my components with wheel hop and everything. It must be that the OEM axles are the best.
From what I hear, that seems to be the case. I'm going to be working on some custom shafts here since I have the access to machining equipment.
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by especk View Post
that sucks. I have 33s and I am super heavy on the skinny pedal going up some gnarly stuff and I'm surprised I haven't broken an axle (knock on wood). I mean seriously, I am super hard on my components with wheel hop and everything. It must be that the OEM axles are the best.

your trucks almost 3-4 years newer so I'm sure you have less beatings on it
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:18 AM   #17
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Also bouncing up stuff is not as hard on CV axles as crawling into a bind and then trying to gas out while the front wheel is either stuffed into the wheel well or completely bottomed out and turned to the max...and bound up against a rock/rut/tree/etc
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:28 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSU Taco85 View Post
OP don't buy the cheapo CV shafts that's why they are breaking
If he is running "cheapo CV shafts" then he must have broke his OE shafts too... Cheapo or not, stuff breaks when you bind up components.
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:00 AM   #19
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it used to be that the aftermarket ones were stronger

has that changed?

Maybe it's just first gens
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:02 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerfan00 View Post
it used to be that the aftermarket ones were stronger

has that changed?

Maybe it's just first gens

Not sure but I know a couple people including Lurry who blew out AZ cv's in about 50 yards and the OE ones last longer.

I have no personal experience as my OE cv's are still original at 84k
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