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Old 01-20-2009, 06:10 AM   #1
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spring question

This may be a stupid question, but il ask anyway. Im buying a set of ome coil springs and shocks. Im pretty sure I do not need a spring compressor to get the old spring /shock setup out. I believe it comes out as one. Do I need the compressor to get the new coils on the new shocks?
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Old 01-20-2009, 06:59 AM   #2
Can you pass the bailout please?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red06toy View Post
This may be a stupid question, but il ask anyway. Im buying a set of ome coil springs and shocks. Im pretty sure I do not need a spring compressor to get the old spring /shock setup out. I believe it comes out as one. Do I need the compressor to get the new coils on the new shocks?
Yes and yes. To remove the stock strut assembly, there are four bolts to remove. Once you have it out, you need to compress the stock springs to disassemble it, then take all the parts (sans the spring) and put the new spring on.

Make sense?
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:02 AM   #3
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
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Dont try to take the old spring off the shock without a spring compressor.
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:10 AM   #5
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What they said....

As an example - this is what the coil assemblies look like as you remove them from the truck.


You have to use a coil compressor to separate them and install the new stuff.

Don't forget this:
On the 1st gen trucks, this line-up was very important. If you don't get this right, you won't be able to install it back on the truck. Or atleast make NOTE of exactly the way its mounted before you separate coil/strut.
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Old 01-20-2009, 10:49 AM   #6
red06toy [OP] red06toy is offline
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Does all this apply if I am not re-using the old shocks since I am not putting the new coil on the old shock?
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Old 01-20-2009, 12:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red06toy View Post
Does all this apply if I am not re-using the old shocks since I am not putting the new coil on the old shock?
In order to get the new spring (ome) or any spring for that matter, onto your shock you will have to compress the spring first.

The last picture that Janster posted will give you a good idea of how this works. You can pull the coil over out from the vehicle without having to compress the spring, although in order to remove the spring from the coilover assembly you will first have to compress the spring and then remove the center nut (pictured with an arrow pointing at it).

EDIT: You can rent a spring compressor that will do the job just fine for FREE at most all large part stores. I know Autozone does this, and so does Advanced. You will just need to leave them about a 30 to 40 dollar deposit in most cases. (A impact wrench is essential for using these spring compressors)
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Old 01-20-2009, 01:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red06toy View Post
Does all this apply if I am not re-using the old shocks since I am not putting the new coil on the old shock?
The reason why - you need the top plate. The top plate is what holds it all together and what attaches it to the truck.
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Old 01-20-2009, 01:47 PM   #10
Can you pass the bailout please?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC4333 View Post
In order to get the new spring (ome) or any spring for that matter, onto your shock you will have to compress the spring first.

The last picture that Janster posted will give you a good idea of how this works. You can pull the coil over out from the vehicle without having to compress the spring, although in order to remove the spring from the coilover assembly you will first have to compress the spring and then remove the center nut (pictured with an arrow pointing at it).

EDIT: You can rent a spring compressor that will do the job just fine for FREE at most all large part stores. I know Autozone does this, and so does Advanced. You will just need to leave them about a 30 to 40 dollar deposit in most cases. (A impact wrench is essential for using these spring compressors)
A note on those spring compressors you can rent... They are barely strong enough to compress the OMEs (or Eibach). I've heard some stories of people having trouble compressing them even with the wall mount hydraulic spring compressors...

Go the safe route. Pay the $40 and take them to a mechanic shop and have them do it. Not worth a trip to the ER (if you're that lucky).
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Old 01-20-2009, 02:50 PM   #11
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
chris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janster View Post
What they said....

As an example - this is what the coil assemblies look like as you remove them from the truck.


You have to use a coil compressor to separate them and install the new stuff.

Don't forget this:
On the 1st gen trucks, this line-up was very important. If you don't get this right, you won't be able to install it back on the truck. Or atleast make NOTE of exactly the way its mounted before you separate coil/strut.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LonghornTaco View Post
Yep. Still needs to be lined up like that.

Odds are, the shop installing the new springs isnt going to get it right. Attach the 3 bolts/studs into the top plate, put the nuts on hand tight, then useing a 3/8" socket extension, 8" long or longer, insert the extension into the bottom hole in the shock (the part that the bolt goes thru), and turn the shock until its lined up. Easy as pie.
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Old 01-20-2009, 03:02 PM   #12
Can you pass the bailout please?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
Odds are, the shop installing the new springs isnt going to get it right. Attach the 3 bolts/studs into the top plate, put the nuts on hand tight, then useing a 3/8" socket extension, 8" long or longer, insert the extension into the bottom hole in the shock (the part that the bolt goes thru), and turn the shock until its lined up. Easy as pie.
+1 - that's what I had to do...
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Old 01-22-2009, 09:20 AM   #13
red06toy [OP] red06toy is offline
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thanks for the info guys!
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Old 01-22-2009, 12:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
Odds are, the shop installing the new springs isnt going to get it right. Attach the 3 bolts/studs into the top plate, put the nuts on hand tight, then useing a 3/8" socket extension, 8" long or longer, insert the extension into the bottom hole in the shock (the part that the bolt goes thru), and turn the shock until its lined up. Easy as pie.
X2

For the many wrench-a-thons we had at our house and the many times we went to the shop to have coils compressed, I'd carry a print-out of that diagram and they still couldn't get it right. I'd check it before I left....and I'd always make 'em fix it!
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Old 01-22-2009, 05:12 PM   #15
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
chris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janster View Post
X2

For the many wrench-a-thons we had at our house and the many times we went to the shop to have coils compressed, I'd carry a print-out of that diagram and they still couldn't get it right. I'd check it before I left....and I'd always make 'em fix it!
Yeah. I dont even bother anymore. I just use my extension and line it up when Im installing.
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Old 08-12-2009, 04:21 PM   #16
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Any tips on how you know you have the top nut down all the way on top of the top plate? I took it into 4 wheel parts to have them compress the springs. They compressed it and assembled with mostly everything lined up right, but they compressed on one side only, and the top plate is a bit catty-wompass (sp? ), so I don't know if they seated the nut all the way down to the last thread of the shock top bolt or if you don't have to worry about that...

See Pic


I put the top plate ans spacer horizontal for reference, and you can see the top bolt angled. The rubber cushion is assymetric as the other clue.

I could hear that lower washer rattle under the top plate (the silver cupped one that goes between the shock and the top plate), so I had them take it back and crank it more, and can't hear that rattle now...
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:00 PM   #17
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
chris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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It looks good.
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