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Old 12-07-2012, 10:42 PM   #41
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Congrats you have officially occupied my saturday
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:11 PM   #42
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Who's hardcore enough to get one of these?


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Old 12-07-2012, 11:17 PM   #43
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legit
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:29 AM   #44
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Awesome post Jason.
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:51 AM   #45
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Really good post, purchased a magnetic angle finder yesterday, waiting for my Dakars to come in and will install my lift. Great write up.
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:40 PM   #47
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If I were to lift my 1st gen 3" using the OME kit (90004 on 883 springs), would I have to get aftermarket UCAs or would this solve the problem of alignment? Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:39 AM   #48
jberry813 [OP] jberry813 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidjmay View Post
If I were to lift my 1st gen 3" using the OME kit (90004 on 883 springs), would I have to get aftermarket UCAs or would this solve the problem of alignment? Thanks in advance!
Kinda depends on what your alignment problem is. I have literally zero knowledge when it comes to OME.
That said, generally speaking as you lift the a 1st gen over 2" it's becomes increasingly more difficult to get the caster at a respectable number, let alone in spec. Aftermarket UCA's can help you get the caster back into spec.
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:27 PM   #49
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awesome write up.... about how long does this take you? sorry if you said it already
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:37 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97yota4wd View Post
awesome write up.... about how long does this take you? sorry if you said it already
Depends on how far out of whack your alignment is and how anal retentive you are.
I normally do it in two steps. Caster/camber as step one, toe as step two. The first time I did it, combined probably 5 hours. It gets faster every time you do it though. Once you get a feel for how much to adjust it goes much faster. I can do both steps now in about 1.5 hours.
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Old 12-25-2012, 10:47 AM   #53
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Great write-up Jason.
I figured you would produce something sticky someday.
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Old 03-23-2013, 03:21 AM   #54
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thanks for this write up jason, I was able to dial in atleast my camber issues tonight
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Old 03-23-2013, 03:27 AM   #55
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Sweet write up! I don't know if I will use this ever, but I didn't even think a DIY alignment was possible..
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:29 PM   #56
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Thanks for the great write-up and references. Very helpful.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:18 PM   #57
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Good job! But I have to read a Few times to catch on the calculation...thanks! My alternative way to get alignment done while getting down a few beers to refresh my memory!
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:35 PM   #58
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Thanks for write-up. I'll read more into this when I get home
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:02 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jberry813 View Post
Something's wrong.
There's been nothing but accolades and kudos in this thread. Where are all the "constructive criticism" and trolling.
What the heck, I’ll join in. Great write up, and particularly paragraph one. However I have a few things to toss in beyond what is mentioned in posts #33, #36.

First off, HF is presently saying that angle finder is only accurate to + 0.3*. Maybe they changed something? It has been my experience that it takes about $100 just to get into the + 0.1* range.

Here is one thing that rarely gets much press. At the 1st go around and before anything else it is important for DIY folks to consider, check or at least understand the initial centering of the rack/steering wheel. If the truck's history is unknown, the rack travel should be checked and centered if necessary. The outer tie-rods should be screwed into the inners an equal amount with a difference of 1.5mm or less to start. The steering wheel should be centered in its allowable rotations relative to the "spiral cable" inside it. Both the steering wheel and the rack centers then need to be in sync. The spot to set this is the spline joint between the rack pinion shaft (control valve) and the steering column shaft (intermediate shaft #2). Once the wheel/ rack centers are in agreement this will never change, unless someone changes it. Additionally it can be assumed that this "centering and sync" is already correct on a “one owner” truck with steering untouched from the factory.

Lastly, I do not buy the 3rd to last sentence at the end of the OP about final centering of the steering wheel in fact it's just plain wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jberry813 View Post
Also, an off-center steering wheel can be corrected by adjusting one tie-rod more than the other. Steering wheel position has no effect at all on your final alignment. But if you’re anal retentive like me…it’s annoying as hell when it’s not straight.
On a 1st gen 4wd Tacoma, once alignment is complete, if the steering wheel is slightly off, it can be brought to center by turning both inner tie-rods in the same direction (red arrows) by the exact same amount (one direction or the other, looking at the rack from the rear). If one is turned a different amount than the other, Toe will change.
Here's a pictogram. The disk at top represents the steering wheel.


Other than what looks like a copy error in the caster calculation numbers, that’s all I got.




.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:19 AM   #60
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Subbeded,
Great write up and once again the voodoo of another automotive setup is made easy for us regular foks to understand, and do if we wish.
Thanks!
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