Vibration after AAL (tried carrier bearing drop and 3 degree axle shims)

i'm gonna take off everything tomorrow, if my truck still vibrates then i guess it's broke

 

shit... well... I took everything off (shims, carrier bearing drop, and AAL) and the 5 mph vib is gone, but the 20-35 (I listed 20-30 earlier, it was always 20-35 vib) is still there, might be time i take it into a shop

 

your u joins are bad. all of that brown stuff around them is rust from the needle bearings inside the cups. get them replaced and have the whole driveshaft balanced. after you reinstall the driveshaft have your pinion angle checked.

 

is that going to be an expensive fix?

 

if you pull the driveshaft out yourself and take it to a driveshaft shop my guess is they will charge you $200-$300 to rebuild and balance. call around see what they say.

 

cool thanks,

just came cross this thread

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/261918-bad-u-joint-carrier-bearing-video.html

mine sounds identical to that first video

 

went to the dealer, they looked at it and told me right away it was u joint, THANKS up in smoke

 

I know it's a little late but depending on how much they charge you, you might want them to replace all 3 u-joints. This way you know they are all good and won't have to deal with this for a long time. Also I'm not positive but you might be able to have them use aftermarket u-joints with grease fittings. I have not looked because mine already do. You might not but could be worth checking out.

 

thanks tim! yea I wanted to get all three done, they wantd 98 per u joint and just about 300 for labor, so right around $600, i figured i'm going to buy

http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-25-5-213x-dana-spicer-1330-series-u-joint-greasable.aspx

(how do I really know if it fits, I wasn't really able to find an application guide)

and try to do it myself, any advice for newbies?

 

As far as will those fit not sure, have never looked up replacement u-joints for either style drive shaft. For replacement tips make sure to use a paint marker across the bolted flange on the rear of the drive shaft. This will help make sure the balance is good and timed. As for removing the joints have a 3/4 socket to hammer on "craftsman" to remove the caps after the clips are removed. Try to avoid using a torch because excessive heat can effect the balance of the shaft. If when removing the retaining clips they break try and use a thick pick or small screwdriver to help remove the pieces. Instead of using a 3/4 socket you can rent a ball joint press from advanced or autozone and use it to help removing the caps.

Some advised tools to have:

- white paint pen
- channel locks, large pair to hold socket for hitting and twisting off old caps
- 3/4 deep socket, cheapy
- vise, to hold drive shaft
- old brake fluid (works) or PB blaster for penetrating purposes
- pliers
- pick, small screwdriver, or chisel
- ball joint press
- wire brush for cleaning out the area for the new u-joint caps, the kind for going inside a pipe or hole
- grease for lubing up caps for install and grease gun for lubing joints

 

i appreciate the advice, i'll keep you updated on how things go, the ujoints are probably coming in sat, so i prob won't be attempting this til monday

I finally found a compatibility sheet for them, took me like 20 min of searching, but yea, those will work with my truck

 

Cool beans man, before you start make sure to re-read my posts about removing the drive shaft. One other thing, prior to removing the first u-joint make a mark on the two corresponding drive shaft sections. This way when the new joint goes in, the shaft will remain phased properly.

 

awesome, I'll def do that, thanks a ton, i gotta replace that seal right before the tranmission too, so i already bought that from the dealer when i was there

 

PHEW!!!! so new u joints in and everything is ALL GOOD, thanks for everyone's help, now i'm kind of feeling risky and putting the add a leaf back in.

last tech question i can think of for a while. So I was planning on replacing the transmission seal, and I was kinda prying it with a screwdriver, tried to grab it with pliers, wouldn't really come out easily.I didn't want to try too hard because the splines of the tranny were in the way, and I didn't want to get anything misaligned. What's the best way to get the transmission seal out, if I decide to replace it down the road?

 

bump for advice on how to remove rear transmission seal? I left the old one in there after all that vibration issue, now I have a very small leak, when i had the driveshaft I could see the seal, but didn't have much room to pry it or use pliers to grab it because of the turning spline thing

 

Did this vibration get sorted out with the AAL back in?

 

i never put the leaf back in, the vibs got all sorted out with the new u joints, then i put a 1'' block to level it out (no vibs), but I'm getting ready to lift it again, so hopefully it'll be smoother this time

 

Thanks for the reply. I put a 2" skyjacker AAL in last week and now have a vibration. I have a 3/4" steady bearing drop to install so we will have to see how it works.

 

Keep us updated please, good luck with the vib

 

So 3/4" carrier drop install and my vibration felt went from 20kmh to 40kmh. I really don't want to remove the AAL. I need to find a stocker to measure the driveshaft angles. I'm thinking maybe dropped it too far. Do I take out the drop and remove the overload leaf. Maybe put a 1/2" drop in. Anyone?